bigragu

JQ, I installed those same type billet freeze plugs a whole year ago, and recently the middle one and the one closest to the block heater started to weep. Getting to the allen heads of those bolts are a pain due to the components in the way. You will need a 3/16" 90 degree allen shaved off so only around 5/8" is left on the shorter length of the tool. All three Allen bolts on those three plugs required 3 whole turns to tighten them back up. Also, as recommended by the supplier of those plugs, dab some high heat silicone around the perimeter of the bolt heads, as that is a source of a fine, fine, minute leak(do not use the gasket maker stuff, as that type needs to be compressed. Not made to be dabbed on, bugger style, to seal. I tried using the blue type, for water pumps and such, and after a couple of months that stuff just peeled right off). Love those billet freeze plugs, vs. the hammer on style. Now, I remember a DP article of yours where you had the freeze plug at the back of the engine done, the type that locks in with (2) 3/8" bolts. I, too, bought one of those from the same supplier, and talking to him over the phone he says the rear one with the two bolts can be done w/o dropping the tranny. He said not easy, but can be done. OK, I say, and I climbed into the compartment, laying my belly on the valve covers, feeling for those bolt ports. Wow!!! I don't know about that! Too much can go wrong, and then I'd be FFFF'd if it did not seal up and sprung a leak. Also, I questioned myself, how do you knock off the old plug and retrieve it? Looking from under the truck, there is a small gap just to SEE the rear plug. Couldn't imagine getting 3 fingers in there, let alone tools. So, I decided not to attempt that one yet till I put more thought into it. Or I might just wait till my rear main seal starts to leak, giving me a reason to drop the tranny! Curious to know, since that rear plug install of yours, if you've ever found a way to even attempt that with the transmission still mounted. I hate the fact I bought something, and now it sits on the shelves cause I can't put it on, LOL!

PapeCAT

Are you guys doing freeze plugs because of age? I'm pulling my motor again to do studs and a headgasket, might as well do this while it is out. Don't like the idea of weeping bolts on expensive plugs, I might just get the hammer in style.

oliver foster

I do them out here due to the like to rust out and they are much easier to swap with the motor out.
The one in the back of the head in particular as Augie just pointed out.

bigragu

My oem ones started weeping, the one directly under the atf cooler. Had to pull the cooler out, turbo I intake duct, etc. just to be able to remove the oem ones. Figured I'd do all 3 down the side of the block. The one weeping was rusted out, and the other 2 on their way. Originally started with the thought of using hammer in style and went to cummins west to buy $25 worth of plugs. They are all made out of stainless steel now instead of the original steel ones put in way back. Now is the problem of getting a tool in there to hammer them in perfectly straight. At that point, cause I did not want to invest in the special tool built to work around components to hammer those in, I decided to go with the billet aluminum toggle ones. Personally, even with engine out, I would use the toggle style. Other than an occasional tighten up of the toggle bolt, they are forever there and easy to get out if need be. Check out the billet one made for the rear of the block. Definitely a do once n forget it kind of thing

PapeCAT

fine. Guess I'll be giving Keating a call tomorrow. My wallet hates you. Especially this time of year.

JQmile

The rear one on mine popped out enough to leak after I was racing a BMW and accidently forgot to shift and hit the governor (about 3800rpm). While that's not too high of an engine speed, it was already on its way out anyways, and that kind of did it in. I got the side plugs at the same time as the first one, but just got around to replacing them now, after the front two started leaking...just due to time and corrosion. I figure they're also good rpm insurance if I ever decided to (please don't kill me ) P-pump the truck.

j_martin

Rusty core plugs for over-rev protection?

Now I've heard it all.

JQmile

LOL....no I meant replacing them with the bolt-in ones. Guess I need more

j.fonder

maybe he flash boiled the coolant and the pressure popped it out

i'm sure we've all seen it happen in race cars, wouldn't expect it from a 6bt though

Jim5870

I'm finally getting around to taking apart the old parts truck. It's been sitting around here for years.
Sold the engine and trans for $3000.00, a friend wants to re-engine his motor home.
Next I'll try to get the cab off the frame to store it and then get the posi
rear axle out, and front control arms, spindles and wiring harness.

thrashingcows

Noticed last night when I finished work at 2am, that while I was walking around the truck clearing my windows of ice that there was a weird grinding/squeal noise coming from the front of the motor when I walked in front. Opened the hood but could not determine where it was...friggin noisy diesels....

Guess one of the accessories is on it's way out...probably tensioner or fan hub bearing. Will pop off the belt and spin things by hand to see if I can feel anything.

Didn't have any time today...hot water tank stopped working yesterday just before heading in for my late shift...so been working on that all day. Just got it to fire up a few minutes ago....Yeah hot water!

Jim Lane

Don't the late model 12v and common rails have a problem blowing the core plugs at high rpm's.

There are bypass kits available to relieve the pressure.

A lot of cooling system failures can be avoided by installing a coolant filter and use R.O. or distilled water.

I had backflushed a lot of casting sand and rust before it finaly stayed clean.
Besides the plugs rusting away they also corrode from electrolysis and eaten from the velocity of the coolant going past them.

You can get a radiator cap with a sacrificial anode attached.

thrashingcows

Just in the last year or so I finally switched to distilled water in my cooling systems. Had not head of a radiator cap with an anode attached....interesting.

Hillbilly66

I finally got around to changing the front and rear output seals on the tcase, as well as my yearly oil change on the tcase and transmission.

thrashingcows

Nice...how long did that take you?