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What did you do to your Gen 1 today?

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Old 10-26-2015, 03:47 PM   #1501  
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Originally Posted by j_martin View Post
With all new shoes and drums it should just clear with the star wheels fully retracted. If it doesn't, it's usually the e-brake levers expanding the shoes.
yup... that's what I told him, but it was too late, as he already had put it back together.

This is the main reason, I take lots of photos, as I can't remember squat anymore. At least with the photos, I can review, and go ...

Oh yeah.... that's how it goes ...

lol.
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Old 10-26-2015, 08:02 PM   #1502  
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With all new shoes and drums it should just clear with the star wheels fully retracted. If it doesn't, it's usually the e-brake levers expanding the shoes.
Yeah, T Man was all over that with his suggestions. Appreciate the advice, as I am stumped. So, for sure when I get back home this next weekend I'll reopen up the drums. So, I'll be into it another set of seals. Been stewin on this as crap like this bugs me, and I hate it when my favorite rig is down. But, is it possible at all, that maybe I needed to put some C-grips on the wheel cylinder stems and precompress them inward, maybe even possibly suck out a bit of brake fluid from the
MC to make room for the new shoes and drums? Just wondering, as this was the 1st attempt for me installing NEW shoes and drums. If this was a bone head wonder on my part, be kind LOL! Sure thought it was going to be a piece of cake remove and replace, and drive back to the Bay Area stylin' with squeak free brakes! Oh, and NJT, thanks for taking the time on a Sunday to troubleshoot this with me. I did take pics of the shoes and such of the 6 month old set up at 3 angles, to assist with the orientation of springs and cables of the new. Saw the glazing on both the drums and shoes while I looked closely. Tried to send you those pics this am, as this was exactly how I put in the new, but my phone kept telling me there was trouble sending the pics. Anyways, let me know if my compressing of the wheel cylinders is legit. Last thing, that Snap On tool I bought awhile back, the one made to remove and replace those hold down springs, was a treat to use. Man, that tool is definitely a must have when dealing with those buggers.
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Old 10-27-2015, 08:44 AM   #1503  
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Well, maybe it doesn't count as they are not yet on the truck, but I picked up four forged aluminum Rickson 19.5 wheels over the weekend. I have been wanting a set of these for years & years!

Found them in the DTR classifieds, no less.

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Old 10-27-2015, 09:03 AM   #1504  
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Well, maybe it doesn't count as they are not yet on the truck, but I picked up four forged aluminum Rickson 19.5 wheels over the weekend. I have been wanting a set of these for years & years!

Found them in the DTR classifieds, no less.

Look to be in good shape too
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Old 10-27-2015, 11:33 AM   #1505  
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Yeah, T Man was all over that with his suggestions. Appreciate the advice, as I am stumped. So, for sure when I get back home this next weekend I'll reopen up the drums. So, I'll be into it another set of seals. Been stewin on this as crap like this bugs me, and I hate it when my favorite rig is down. But, is it possible at all, that maybe I needed to put some C-grips on the wheel cylinder stems and precompress them inward, maybe even possibly suck out a bit of brake fluid from the
MC to make room for the new shoes and drums? Just wondering, as this was the 1st attempt for me installing NEW shoes and drums. If this was a bone head wonder on my part, be kind LOL! Sure thought it was going to be a piece of cake remove and replace, and drive back to the Bay Area stylin' with squeak free brakes! Oh, and NJT, thanks for taking the time on a Sunday to troubleshoot this with me. I did take pics of the shoes and such of the 6 month old set up at 3 angles, to assist with the orientation of springs and cables of the new. Saw the glazing on both the drums and shoes while I looked closely. Tried to send you those pics this am, as this was exactly how I put in the new, but my phone kept telling me there was trouble sending the pics. Anyways, let me know if my compressing of the wheel cylinders is legit. Last thing, that Snap On tool I bought awhile back, the one made to remove and replace those hold down springs, was a treat to use. Man, that tool is definitely a must have when dealing with those buggers.
The wheel cylinders should be fully compressed every time by normal action. It is possible the push rods are not properly seated, but I find that doubtful. If the old shoes and new shoes are different enough so the new shoes press the cylinders further in, it is possible that crud in the cylinders is blocking compression, but I find that quite doubtful. They would more likely just puke all over everything.

My bet is on the E-brake lever not releasing properly.
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Old 10-27-2015, 12:44 PM   #1506  
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My bet is on the E-brake lever not releasing properly.
Yup... Too far forwards, as you can tell from his brakes he sent this pic of to me.
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Old 10-27-2015, 12:46 PM   #1507  
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Snow tires went on today, now that it's going to be cool enough not to damage them.

They need about 500 miles on them to start working effectively, or so I've read.
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Old 10-27-2015, 02:02 PM   #1508  
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Yup... Too far forwards, as you can tell from his brakes he sent this pic of to me.
T, now I feel stoopid, dum, and abusd. Don't even go der wit the spelin'
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Old 10-27-2015, 04:50 PM   #1509  
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Installed the steering box frame brace early this morning - bottom most bolt wouldn't budge till coffee made me realize I had forgotten it was a splined bolt like a wheel stud.
About a month ago I replaced my broken steering box mounting plate with a spare (new) unit I had on the basement shelf. Absent reaming out a hole with a drill bit, there was no way to get that splined bolt to fit any of the three mounting holes in the plate. (I briefly tried to drive the bolt into the bottom hole with a hammer; I eventually just used three new 9/16" Grade 8 bolts and washers to mount the plate.)

I have since procured a replacement spare (used) from Oliver Foster and the splined bolt will not fit any of the three mounting holes on that plate either. Any idea what is my issue? That plate is a notorious weak spot in these trucks and I have no intention of weakening one of the holes by making it larger .

TIA.
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Old 10-27-2015, 08:09 PM   #1510  
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Yup... Too far forwards, as you can tell from his brakes he sent this pic of to me.
Just don't ask how I know that one.
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Old 10-27-2015, 08:50 PM   #1511  
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Just don't ask how I know that one.
So, looking ahead and as I only have limited time to get my truck brake situation resolved once I open the drums back up, tell me if this is a plan worth attempting:
1. Open up the drums 2. E brake cable is already slack/loosened, so push bracket as far towards the rear of the drum as it will go. 3. Clean up the E brake pivot point and associated cam bracket, bushing, etc. and reassemble. T, what type of grease or lube should I put on that pivot area? Same high temp grease that I put on the backing plate for the shoes? 4. The actual cable, anything else to do to it while I'm on there? 5. After all the shoes and hardware are back on, should I semi tighten the cable back up, activate the e brake, and disconnect the e brake to make sure it is releasing fully while the drums are off? 6. If and when all checks out ok, reassemble drum, axle, etc. slack up again the E brake cable. Adjust shoes for slight to no drag. Then adjust the E brake cable- sound good? Missing anything? Other than the FSM directions on adjusting the E brake cable that makes the process easier / mo bettah? Please advise
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Old 10-27-2015, 09:03 PM   #1512  
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These trucks have the biggest PITA brakes of anything I have ever seen.
x2😬
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Old 10-27-2015, 10:34 PM   #1513  
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So, looking ahead and as I only have limited time to get my truck brake situation resolved once I open the drums back up, tell me if this is a plan worth attempting:
1. Open up the drums
2. E brake cable is already slack/loosened, so push bracket as far towards the rear of the drum as it will go.
3. Clean up the E brake pivot point and associated cam bracket, bushing, etc. and reassemble. T, what type of grease or lube should I put on that pivot area? Same high temp grease that I put on the backing plate for the shoes?
4. The actual cable, anything else to do to it while I'm on there?
5. After all the shoes and hardware are back on, should I semi tighten the cable back up, activate the e brake, and disconnect the e brake to make sure it is releasing fully while the drums are off?
6. If and when all checks out ok, reassemble drum, axle, etc. slack up again the E brake cable. Adjust shoes for slight to no drag. Then adjust the E brake cable- sound good?

Missing anything? Other than the FSM directions on adjusting the E brake cable that makes the process easier / mo bettah? Please advise
When were your E-brake cable last replaced? I would pull the drums off, then unhook the cables from the main body cable, and from the drum lever, and see how easily they move. They should slide VERY easily. If there is much resistance then replace them. And the new ones, soak them in a bucket of used motor oil for a few days to get oil into the case....will help keep them in good shape, longer.

After that I would pull the pivots for the E-brake cable, and cam, apart and clean them...as for the lube, I used bearing grease. Once that is in good shape I would re-assemble the brakes. Hook up the E-brake cable inside the drum of course. Then slip the drums back over and just loosely hook up the e-brake cables.

Now what i do next might not be standard procedure, but has worked for me. Leaving the axles out, I start to adjust up the brakes until I just hear the drums start to kiss the shoes. Then I will go adjust the E-brake cable until it's snug...not too tight. Then I will pump the brakes a few times and then cycle the e-brake in the cab a few times as well....(truck off). Then climb back under and listen and feel the drums as it spins. Usually they will adjust away from the drum.

I keep doing this procedure until the E-brake is tight and holding the drum tight. But the brakes are not dragging badly when spun by hand....just a slight drag is what I shoot for. The put the axles back in and see if the e-brake needs any more adjustment....will it hold the truck?

Usually takes me at least 30-60 minutes to do it this way, I have not had any issues myself.
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Old 10-27-2015, 10:40 PM   #1514  
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Just don't ask how I know that one.
Ragu... You shouldn't be so hard on yourself. From the above post, I think you can come to the conclusion that both J and have done the same thing as you have. Its inherent in this trucks designs, and the simple fact youre dealing with a 22 year old truck..

I used neverseize, but any type of water resistant grease will do fine. Cllean the parts, remove any rust or contaminant$, lube it up and put it back together. Brake drum will fit at that point.

For me, I pushed the e brake arm all the way rearward. I connected and adjusted the e brake cable threaded rod to put some tension on the cable which aligns the cable end which clips in the recess of the e brake lever. Is there is no tension on that cable, the clip can dislodge itself from the lever when you put the drums back on, thereby leaving you with no cable connected to the arm, when its all back together.
Yes... It happened to me

Once it's all together, adjust the starwheel, but no drag on the shoes. Pump the brakes drums on, starwheel adjusted. This aligns the shoes in the drums. Re adjust the starwheel. No drag. When done, adjust your e brake cable threaded rod without overtightening and pulling cables to the point where they tighten the shoes against the drum.

Drive it gingerly to break in the shoes. Re adjust as necessary.
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Old 10-27-2015, 11:41 PM   #1515  
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Ok, fellas, thanks, and T , well I'll try not to beat myself up anymore. Thanks for the emergency responses this past weekend. JM, thanks for making me and others realize that we're human and mistakes are inevitable, and TC, thanks for piping in with a combination of tips that compliments JM's and T-man's suggestions. It all sounds like additional work which equals additional time, but nevertheless, this drum brake stuff doesn't allow room for shortcuts. So with you all's tips I will plan accordingly the next couple a days so when I'm back home this weekend from work I'll have an idea how to structure my attack. May have to whittle at it into late Friday night into the AM. whoo hoo!! Ya gotta love it!
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