The hardest part is the pressure line for the steering gear there isn't much room between the frame and the gear. A hard line with a brazed/silver soldered AN fitting is what I am going to use.
Something like this. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...314771/page53/

with this end.Aeroquip Steel Weld-In Bungs FBM2872 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing


I posted a listed the parts I found for my DIY hose project. Maybe you can find somthing usefull in there somewhere

 

Thanks Mark! I'm planning to pull the truck in the shop this winter and start figuring all of that out. I won't be able to do much final assembly because I'm going to Chassis Saver most of the frame and I can't do THAT until the temps stay consistently above 50*.

 

Today I replaced the seat back adjuster assembly in the driver's seat of the parts truck. It was frozen and the seat back wouldn't move. It was a bit tedious but wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. I never messed with upholstery before. Now the seat back works as it should.
I also took the cover off the rear axle to see what gears were in it (3.54) and found a Power Lok hiding in there! It needs to be rebuilt but still a nice little bonus.

 

Power lock is relatively easy to rebuild. I ordered a new spider gear kit and it came with everything, including the additive for the gear oil. Beware, though. New clutches are NOT covered with abrasive materials anymore. THey're just steel clutches that ride against each other.

WHen I opened up the parts I found the clutches looked completely different than stock. After a phone call, they assured me that this was the way it was supposed to be. Been fine since. Just make sure you follow the FSM for torque specs and such, and don't alter the orientation of the split casing. It's critical for proper function.

 

Rig is back in the saddle. It's been down for two weeks, as I tried replacing the drums brakes in the rear to new, upgraded parts instead of the Brake Best brand $25 shoes I was using. Replaced the E-Brake cables at the rear, and will do the front cable to the E-Brake another time. No more annoying squealing brakes! Reason it was down was, at the time I pulled a bone head move and attached the bottom spring that goes from shoe to shoe to the wrong hole, causing my new drums to go on too tight. Thank God for the pics here on DTR, I was comparing a pic of one done correctly compared to mine and spotted it. Sad thing was before I tore off the old assembly I markets the holes being used on the new shoes with a paint marker, and still missed the right hole!!! Anyway, all is good now, and enjoying the new rear brakes

 

Great to hear !

Was I supposed to call you back ? I dunno...


Lately, I've been dealing with CRS, and nothing seems to be falling into place as usual...

 

Nice to have brakes that work. It's much easier on the seat covers.
glad you got it back together.

 

Did my Hydroboost conversion yesterday....

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...thread-323472/

 

all I've got to say is, ITS ABOUT DANG TIME!

 

Justin, when are you going Hydroboost to get rid of your leaky master cylinder seal ?

 

Pretty sure Justin already did HB.

 

. Thanks, Mark. Stopping is good and without squealing is great. Tired of Bay Area people and their Prius's staring at me!!

 

Naw, T, we had a good chat, always do. It was good to catch up and talk trucks. Now I have to reveal it to all if you don't mind.... Please don't SELL YOUR TRUCK!!!

 

Wait…WHAT?
T-man we gotta talk.

 

I gave Ol' Patches a good scrubbing today, been a couple months.

Was cruising around on E-bay this evening and I think Bryson711 has his crewcab up for sale?