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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
So finally drove the truck since I rebuilt the rear brakes and hubs. **** do the brakes feel extraordinarily better then they did prior. This with the standard 2.5" brakes on it. I must say it feels like a whole different truck now.
I had forgotten just how much fun it is to drill 5/8" holes in 1/2 in thick steel with a hand drill. I bet I've done 10,000 or more with a drill press or a radial. Hand drill makes my arms tired and the drill hot.
One more hole and I can bolt my trailer hitch on finally after cutting and grinding on the bumper. Lots of fun. Yeah! Right!
I'll jump on this Getrag Supporter Bandwagon. I have used and abused the ones in my trucks, and have only had one issue in 12 years after converting my 1990 W250.
If I am correct, the pre-load on these needs to be tight as there are taper rollers on both ends of the main shaft that will wear in slightly over time. If its set too loose the main input gear, that drives the countershaft, will not have proper teeth engagement with the countershaft, and fail. (someone can correct me if I am wrong on this)
I had a 3rd gear roll pin work loose in the 3rd gear shift fork recently and when I pulled the toploader off the Getrag I noticed that the preload was incorrect due to wear and improper assembly. Lucky for me I was able to dress the teeth that were damaged and had it rebuilt to the tighter end of the preload spectrum and I expect to get another 12 years of service out of it.
If you expect to build a hotrod truck that you and rip through the gears, get a later six speed NV5600, you have to buy a full swap kit anyways, you could go big from the start.
I don’t plane to build a hot rod. My idea for this truck is to do some minor pump adjustments after I get gauges so I know where it is at and use it as a daily driver and for towing/hauling. I don’t need a complete swap kit. I have the adapter plate and starter to go with an nv4500. I also think I would probably just change the input on the transfer case I have now to match the nv4500 if I went that route. I’m not sure I want to take on the extra work and cost of a nv5600 either.
Tried to install the Diamond Eye 4" exhaust. Stopped as they didn't provide a hanger for the downpipe. I don't care to not have one and have an exhaust flange break. Starting to wonder if I should have spent an extra $100 for the FLO-PRO system. I called Diamond Eye, but the guy that could answer my question (supposedly), wasn't there. They said I would hear back from him tomorrow.
I heard back from the guy at Diamond Eye the next day. He said they designed the downpipe to not need that hanger. Supposedly they upgraded the flange or something. So he told me to just put it on without it and if it ever cracked they would replace it.I go the exhaust on Yesterday late at night and thought it was good. Today I drove it and it was hitting on the frame somewhere. I started at the downpipe and it was free and clear. I then looked at the next piece. There lay my problem! It was hitting on the crossmember that the tranny mount is on. I’m guessing the 47rh required moving the crossmember back so it didn’t quite clear. I spent another 45 minutes trying to fine tune it so it wouldn’t be so close. I got it positioned a little better, but it still rubs in drive at idle. It doesn’t rub in any other gear, just drive.My plan is to enlist the help of my buddy that knows his way around a welder and add 1 1/2” to the downpipe and take that much out of the m pipe before the . That will require removing it, but I guess oh well. That should get the bend in the right spot so it doesn’t hit.Overall I’m happy with the kit. The muffler makes it VERY quiet (more than I was hoping in a way), but that just keeps unwanted attention away from me. The exhaust also sounds kind of airy. I’m thinking the muffler might wear in a little and that will go away. The truck seems to have more power with the new setup as well, so that’s always a plus!Next thing on the list is to replace the rear transfer case I put seal. It has been leaking and pretty much ran my transfer case dry. When I put new fluid in it the clunking and surging problems went away. After that I need to fix my speedometer. Right now it is off about 10 mph. I also need to get gauges. Seems like these lists go on forever! 😂
I heard back from the guy at Diamond Eye the next day. He said they designed the downpipe to not need that hanger. Supposedly they upgraded the flange or something. So he told me to just put it on without it and if it ever cracked they would replace it.I go the exhaust on Yesterday late at night and thought it was good. Today I drove it and it was hitting on the frame somewhere. I started at the downpipe and it was free and clear. I then looked at the next piece. There lay my problem! It was hitting on the crossmember that the tranny mount is on. I’m guessing the 47rh required moving the crossmember back so it didn’t quite clear. I spent another 45 minutes trying to fine tune it so it wouldn’t be so close. I got it positioned a little better, but it still rubs in drive at idle. It doesn’t rub in any other gear, just drive.My plan is to enlist the help of my buddy that knows his way around a welder and add 1 1/2” to the downpipe and take that much out of the m pipe before the . That will require removing it, but I guess oh well. That should get the bend in the right spot so it doesn’t hit.Overall I’m happy with the kit. The muffler makes it VERY quiet (more than I was hoping in a way), but that just keeps unwanted attention away from me. The exhaust also sounds kind of airy. I’m thinking the muffler might wear in a little and that will go away. The truck seems to have more power with the new setup as well, so that’s always a plus!Next thing on the list is to replace the rear transfer case I put seal. It has been leaking and pretty much ran my transfer case dry. When I put new fluid in it the clunking and surging problems went away. After that I need to fix my speedometer. Right now it is off about 10 mph. I also need to get gauges. Seems like these lists go on forever! ��
My DE kit also hit in the same place on the trans crossmember. It was touching the side of the transfer case. I have the stock 518 trans.. Adjusting its position cured both. My downpipe used to smack the inside frame rail too, and I fixed that with a BFH.
It's been said here a million times..... These trucks are a slippery slope.f
My DE kit also hit in the same place on the trans crossmember. It was touching the side of the transfer case. I have the stock 518 trans.. Adjusting its position cured both. My downpipe used to smack the inside frame rail too, and I fixed that with a BFH.
It's been said here a million times..... These trucks are a slippery slope.f
I tried every possible position to no avail. I got it so it wouldn't touch the transfer case and so there is just the ever so slightest gap on the transmission crewmembers, but it is so close on the crossmember that at idle it still hits. I think that this is caused by the adapter plate for the 47th being thicker so the crewmembers has to come back a little. So with that I figure I either cut the piece just after the downpour and add a piece in the middle of it or add an inch to an inch and a half to the downpipe. That should solve my issue. I still can't believe how much more power the new exhaust seems to have given the truck!
I would fab up or modify that DP support bracket that bolts to the transmission bell. I would not trust that much weight hanging on the back of the turbo. Even if DE would replace the DP...what about the turbo flange if that gets ruined?
I would think a small dimple made on the exhaust pipe with a ball peen hammer, where it is hitting the crossmember would be a simple and easy fix. A small dimple will not effect the flow of a 4 inch pipe much if any.
I would fab up or modify that DP support bracket that bolts to the transmission bell. I would not trust that much weight hanging on the back of the turbo. Even if DE would replace the DP...what about the turbo flange if that gets ruined?
I would think a small dimple made on the exhaust pipe with a ball peen hammer, where it is hitting the crossmember would be a simple and easy fix. A small dimple will not effect the flow of a 4 inch pipe much if any.
Cracking exhaust housing can be eliminated with one clamp through the floorboard with a reinforcing plate.
Yup. That's exactly what I did, and being the size of the exhaust has so lititle restriction, the dimples should have no negative effect.
The normal twisting of the engine in its rubber mounts is enough that, without securing the down-pipe, the twist will almost always crack the thing at the turbo.
I did like dodge did to fix that and secured my down-pipe at the trans bell-housing. As such, there's no flexing/twisting of the DP at the turbo(s).
Just past the DP turning back, there's a short piece of SS flex that accommodates any movement of the DP.
Hauled my 67 MG BGT to the swap meet with my brother in law’s 3rd gen yesterday, since my transfer case is trying to shift into 2 ranges at the same time. Dropped off the car, picked up a loaner transfer case and swapped it in. Hopefully, I can rebuild mine within the next week or 2 and swap it one last time.
Then went out to the swap meet and got offered $20k for the truck before I’d even parked it. I put a price of $25k on it (don’t want to sell it, but if the price is right... ) and got a lot of interest. Got about 10 offers on the truck and a few that seemed interested in the car, but neither one sold. Had to tow the MG back to my dads house and wait for the phone to ring. It’s been a busy couple of days.
I finally got my trailer hitch done the way I want it. The Crap for Brains PO had welded a hitch to the top of the plate right in front of the tag. I kept worrying that some Policing for Profit cop would pull me over and give me a ticket for it.
I had to torch it off with my plasma cutter then grind it down smooth. I also had to torch and grind the bottom of the plate smooth for the new hitch. I repainted the bumper of course and now the wife says it's the cleanest place on the truck. I bolted the hitch on with 4 x 5/8 inch bolts and nuts etc...
My 1/ton Dually sets kind of high in the back so the hitch seems high also. Is there a standard height for the ball? I know I can get a dropped ball stem for the receiver.
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My 1/ton Dually sets kind of high in the back so the hitch seems high also. Is there a standard height for the ball? I know I can get a dropped ball stem for the receiver.
I’m going to put 4 of these into the corners of the bed floor. I don’t remember where I got these from, but the eyelet is removable, so they’re out of the way when not in use.
I really like this idea, but I can’t find those things that the eyelet threads into. Does anyone know what they are called? There is a Fastenall store in town from where I live. Maybe they would have some.
I really like this idea, but I can’t find those things that the eyelet threads into. Does anyone know what they are called? There is a Fastenall store in town from where I live. Maybe they would have some.
You can also weld a nut to the underside of the bed.
I really like this idea, but I can’t find those things that the eyelet threads into. Does anyone know what they are called? There is a Fastenall store in town from where I live. Maybe they would have some.
