Saw a picture opportunity yesterday at work.
I backed up carefully seeing as I own it. Lol

 

Since it was in the 60's here, I fired up my '90, backed it out of the garage, put the 205 in neutral and the Gutbag in direct and put a stick on the throttle for about 45mins to stir up the juices. My neighbors love me.

 

That's pretty cool

 

Did some snow pushing the other day.... 12 hours and the truck performed flawlessly except for the driver who was tired by the end of the day and tapped my fence post again...

So, the tailgate froze / busted (will determine this week), and the wife shovel-monkey had to help lift the snow thrower out of the back of the truck over the tailgate after about 6 hours into the day.

Man that sucked......

 

This one was Ollie's favorite, so I figured I'd post it.

Stopped for lunch at the diner as everything would be shut down by the time the storm ended...

 

Got around to fixing the tailgate latches today.

Found out that when the tailgate has been opened and closed, slammed, punched, kicked and spat at, (kind of like what Geraldo Rivera's life was like) the years of abuse take its toll on the parts inside the body, mainly the latches. Today, I investigated...

The chunks of ice between the tailgate and my sandbag ballast cages prevented the latches from opening up the other day. This, with all my monkey muscles caused the little levers inside the latches to bend, making the distance longer than they should be to get the latches to release. In other words, the lever bent further away, which means that the limitation on the handle had been reached, which is why it required manual manipulation to open up the latches. The connecting linkage was just stretched a bit.

Cleaned up everything, re bent the levers and everything is back up an running. The plates which mount the latches to the tailgate body were tweaked as well, assuming that the tailgate had been stressed at one point or another by putting a lot of pressure on it while closed. this in turn compounded the issue.

Lubed it all up, reassembled, and works good as new....

 

can't remember if i posted this already, but i "fixed" the cruise on my truck the other day. I installed a trailer brake controller last year and afterwards, my cruise didn't work. I needed the trailer brakes more than I needed cruise so I just trucked on with the foot to skinny pedal, don't really use cruise when i'm towing anyhow. So the other day I clipped the wire to the brake controller and voila, cruise worked again. so discussing this with another 1st gen feller and he suggested putting a diode in the line from the brake circuit to the brake controller. I did and wouldn't ya know, the brake controller and cruise control work now!

 

Interesting. Now that I think about it, the last time I remember my cruise working was prior to installing my brake controller.

What type of diode did you use, and where could a guy purchase said diode?

 

i just went to radio shack and bought a plain old 3a diode. there will be a ring around one side of the diode(cathode) wire it with the ring end closest to the brake controller. this allows voltage to flow towards the brake controller, but not back.

 

Don't look now but there is a truck tailgating you....time to give him a brake test!

 

I would say that could be your cruise unit or vacuum supply as I've not had that issue with mine?

 

I think there's 2 circuits to the brake switch. You tapped into the wrong one. There shouldn't be a diode in the wire to the controller, as it should be partly controlled by the brake light voltage, and it also should back feed brake lights if it's manually operated.

 

Ya see, this is why we should always consult a salty twidget before doing any wiring! It all functions properly with the diode but atleast now I know why. Cheers.

 

must you always be so pleasant? Geez

 

He wants to give you an excuse to "thank" a post for the 4000th time.