Thanks for mentioning him. Was really an innovative idea. Best part is that in only took me 2.5 hours to do both sides.

 

Yup...

I think it took longer to put the door panels back on with a new plastic liner than it did the entire job.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ieking-302803/


Good to re read these old threads from time to time.

 

Fixed the ailing clearance lamps on my fender flares. Wound up splicing in 3 new sockets and replacing one base while I was at it. Salt ate the sockets. I think the collision with the big doe a couple years ago took out the plastic lamp base. At least they are commodity Truck-Lite parts.

 

Looks like a worthwhile endeavor. I hate the tinny doors on these trucks.

 

Put plastic (moisture barrier), carpet padding in the door panels, and behind the speakers. Much better. I can hear the radio and for some reason after this and reinforcing the door I no longer have to slam my doors. I would call this a success.

 

 

Was finally able to replace vacuum and power steering pumps, one less oil leak to deal with now. While I was under the hood I replace all the throttle linkage parts.

 

I pulled both the crew cabs off the road today for the winter.

I am looking out the window and snow is everywhere.
I am guessing some highway guy couldn't help himself and salted the roads last night.

Time to write up the winter things to fix list and leave it on the driver seat so I don't forget a project.

One of the big one is get my reverse rotation steering box rebuild so I can put it on the lifted white crew.
I think Mr.Fusion used Chip for his RR steering box rebuild…Any other people have a comment on a good rebuilder to send it too?
Since I have ALL winter, I am not in a rush for quick turn around.

I am off to the shop to swap the summer tires for the winters on the Blue Donkey ['95 RCLB, 12V, NV-4500 4x4, 2500]. I oiled it down with Bar and Chain oil two weeks ago.

 

Installed the headlamps that come as a shell, and when all said and done, when your bulbs go out, you simply reach into the engine compartment and pop out the old bulb then put in the new. No more disassembly of the trim around the front of the grill. So, basically the Same mod NJTMan did with his Hella Lamp kits, just mine was a different manufacturer. Will update on the brightness and/or changes this evening. I put in the best H4 bulbs in there, which gave me the best in longetivity and brightness at the same time

 

i hope they're on relays? you won't see as much improvement unless you put them on relays, factory headlight switch and wiring just doesn't supply enough voltage. i run the hella e-codes with sylvania silverstars on relays, definitely a worth while upgrade

 

Snow already Oliver! I'm more then a little jealous.

 

Jealous, I live here on Vancouver island to stay away from the snow. Live on my boat and last year all we got on the waterfront was a light dusting that lasted for all of 1/2 an hour which is the way I like it.
Snow Free Del

 

Oh, yeah, relays for sure. Did the Mr Jim Lanes harness upgrade to the heavier wire and relays a long time ago when I learned that the headlight switch was on borrowed time. My relays will run both high and lows at the same time, plus run a pair of fog lights automatically when called for high. At low beams, I can run those fog lights by toggle switch. Right now I'm still fiddling around trying to adjust these new lamps. I spent 2 hours last night, then up at 5am adjusting these per the Daniel Stearn method, along with the field service manual. They both are projecting the center of the lights too low for my liking, and the drivers side doesn't project enough light towards the left, for my liking. So, tomorrow am on my way into work I'll "customize" the light throw some, and see if I get any on comers flashing their brights at me. From there tweak s'more. As far as actual performance, the silver stars I was using seemed to light up better on the low beams, but these H4's dominate on the high beams. For the $$ spent, I keep telling myself it'll be easier to swap out new headlights the next time, and these H4's have a 1 year warranty. With the silver stars I was cautious with using the high beams cause man those tended to shorten the life span. At $26 a pop, that can get expensive. In all fairness, I believe once I get these lamps adjusted properly I should be a happy camper. Seems that all people that I've met that have these in love 'em

 

which housings did you use? i've heard some complaints about the pattern on some of the knock off h4 housings. i really like the pattern of the hella e-codes, really nice cut off on low beam, and they are H4 bulbs as well. i have the diode between the relays for simultaneous high/low beam operation, they are awesome at night on the deer filled back roads of Virginia.

 

Last couple weeks I've started to get an occasional stumble when starting...or should I say it's taking more then the normal 1/2 crank to fire. I was pretty sure it was a fuel leak somewhere.

I popped the hood the other night when fueling....to check the oil...and noticed that there was a strong diesel smell. So out came the flash light and it looked like my IP was pretty damp. So today I sprayed on simple green, let it sit for a bit, then hosed it off. Then did some running around. Got back home and it looks like it's leaking between the main body of the IP and the top. Perhaps I damaged the seal when I did the 3200 spring? Because I re-sealed the IP less then 2 years ago.

Also noticed that the push on inlet fuel line fitting running into the lift pump seems to be leaking as well. Are there O-rings in this fitting? I can't recall from when I had them off.