What did you do to your Gen 1 today?
02-20-2018, 07:36 PM
#5641
Registered User
Are we talking about a shop compressor or a 12V compressor in your truck?
If it's a shop compressor running on single phase 120VAC then there is probably a capacitor and a starter winding in series with a centrifugal switch on the shaft of the motor. The cap shifts the phase of the AC in the starter winding to get the motor going. When it's up to speed the centrifugal switch opens and cuts off the starter winding. If the cap is weak the motor doesn't have enough starting torque and will blow fuses because the main winding draws to much current.
14 gauge is a bit light on the wire if you have a 40 amp fuse in the circuit. usually for 30 amps requires 10 gauge wire.
Edwin
If it's a shop compressor running on single phase 120VAC then there is probably a capacitor and a starter winding in series with a centrifugal switch on the shaft of the motor. The cap shifts the phase of the AC in the starter winding to get the motor going. When it's up to speed the centrifugal switch opens and cuts off the starter winding. If the cap is weak the motor doesn't have enough starting torque and will blow fuses because the main winding draws to much current.
14 gauge is a bit light on the wire if you have a 40 amp fuse in the circuit. usually for 30 amps requires 10 gauge wire.
Edwin
02-20-2018, 10:47 PM
#5642
Registered User
It's probably a series wound brush DC motor. Voltage drop will cause it to draw excessive current, blowing fuses and switches. 14G is way too light. Should be about 10G. 25' of 14G will drop almost 2 volts. The increased current would make that even more. 25' of 10G drops about 0.6V.
Also, a mini-ISO relay (30 amp) is a little light for the application. Use a Maxi-ISO relay, the one with 3/8" terminals for the power circuit.
Also, a mini-ISO relay (30 amp) is a little light for the application. Use a Maxi-ISO relay, the one with 3/8" terminals for the power circuit.
02-20-2018, 11:10 PM
#5643
Registered User
When I first got the truck 2 years ago, it hat 31 inch tires and a healthy (stock) 400 big block with an Edelbrock manifold and 600cfm carb, 727 trans and 3.54 gears..... oh and it was 2WD then. 10.5 MPG running @ 55-60, and 8 MPG towing 5k lbs. @ 55. And gas was “cheap” at $1.99.... I can’t imagine the fuel bill now. I’m grateful for the knowledge shared by ya’ll on this forum, as well as the inspiration. Thanks guys!
02-20-2018, 11:22 PM
#5644
Registered User
02-20-2018, 11:55 PM
#5645
Registered User
My 73 originally had the small tripod with the same style mirror head.
When I first got the truck 2 years ago, it hat 31 inch tires and a healthy (stock) 400 big block with an Edelbrock manifold and 600cfm carb, 727 trans and 3.54 gears..... oh and it was 2WD then. 10.5 MPG running @ 55-60, and 8 MPG towing 5k lbs. @ 55. And gas was “cheap” at $1.99.... I can’t imagine the fuel bill now. I’m grateful for the knowledge shared by ya’ll on this forum, as well as the inspiration. Thanks guys!
02-21-2018, 04:59 AM
#5646
Administrator
Jimbo,
I have a Viair 380-C (200 psi continuous) on my truck and I have the switch set at 175 psi,
I have it wired using 8-gauge wire directly from my rear AGM batteries through a 40-amp relay.
I had it fused with a 40-amp ato style fuse and I was continually melting them, now I use a 30-amp cartridge fuse like you would find on your home air conditioner and it has not blown yet.
I am using an adjustable Dayton pressure switch to trigger the relay.
When I had it wired using 10-gauge wire, it worked but the wire would get pretty hot since it runs for about 5 minuets at a time to fill my tanks.
Maybe increase your wire size especially if you are far from your battery and use a quality fuse.
Do you have an ammeter so you can check the current draw on the motor?
Jim
I have a Viair 380-C (200 psi continuous) on my truck and I have the switch set at 175 psi,
I have it wired using 8-gauge wire directly from my rear AGM batteries through a 40-amp relay.
I had it fused with a 40-amp ato style fuse and I was continually melting them, now I use a 30-amp cartridge fuse like you would find on your home air conditioner and it has not blown yet.
I am using an adjustable Dayton pressure switch to trigger the relay.
When I had it wired using 10-gauge wire, it worked but the wire would get pretty hot since it runs for about 5 minuets at a time to fill my tanks.
Maybe increase your wire size especially if you are far from your battery and use a quality fuse.
Do you have an ammeter so you can check the current draw on the motor?
Jim
02-21-2018, 09:54 PM
#5647
Registered User
Of course I drove it very conservatively and never tromped on the go pedal...
Pretty sure a 460 would have been an all around improvement but the 400M was OK.
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thrashingcows (02-21-2018)
02-21-2018, 10:46 PM
#5649
Registered User
don't let the wife drive your truck.....
The following 3 users liked this post by Blue Goose:
LOL!
02-22-2018, 05:27 AM
#5651
Registered User
02-22-2018, 08:27 AM
#5652
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
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Most likely it's disconnected, or the track is blocked or filled with crud.
02-22-2018, 11:05 AM
#5653
Registered User
02-22-2018, 12:42 PM
#5654
Registered User
Were bucket seats available in the 89?
Thanks for the info.
Edwin
02-22-2018, 12:59 PM
#5655
Registered User
You shouldn't have to pull the seat out, just look underneath it. There is a spring loaded latch on both sides connected by a wire from the drivers side handle to the passenger side latch. The latches could be gummed up, bent or the return springs are broke or missing. Probably an easy fix as long as the wire isn't broken. That might be harder to find. The good news is the parts should all be the same from a multitude of years and across all the D & W100's to 350's as long as it's a bench seat.
