What did you do to your Gen 1 today?
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Commerce, OK
Are we talking about a shop compressor or a 12V compressor in your truck?
If it's a shop compressor running on single phase 120VAC then there is probably a capacitor and a starter winding in series with a centrifugal switch on the shaft of the motor. The cap shifts the phase of the AC in the starter winding to get the motor going. When it's up to speed the centrifugal switch opens and cuts off the starter winding. If the cap is weak the motor doesn't have enough starting torque and will blow fuses because the main winding draws to much current.
14 gauge is a bit light on the wire if you have a 40 amp fuse in the circuit. usually for 30 amps requires 10 gauge wire.
Edwin
If it's a shop compressor running on single phase 120VAC then there is probably a capacitor and a starter winding in series with a centrifugal switch on the shaft of the motor. The cap shifts the phase of the AC in the starter winding to get the motor going. When it's up to speed the centrifugal switch opens and cuts off the starter winding. If the cap is weak the motor doesn't have enough starting torque and will blow fuses because the main winding draws to much current.
14 gauge is a bit light on the wire if you have a 40 amp fuse in the circuit. usually for 30 amps requires 10 gauge wire.
Edwin
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Isanti, MN
It's probably a series wound brush DC motor. Voltage drop will cause it to draw excessive current, blowing fuses and switches. 14G is way too light. Should be about 10G. 25' of 14G will drop almost 2 volts. The increased current would make that even more. 25' of 10G drops about 0.6V.
Also, a mini-ISO relay (30 amp) is a little light for the application. Use a Maxi-ISO relay, the one with 3/8" terminals for the power circuit.
Also, a mini-ISO relay (30 amp) is a little light for the application. Use a Maxi-ISO relay, the one with 3/8" terminals for the power circuit.
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Joined: Sep 2016
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From: Riverside, CA
When I first got the truck 2 years ago, it hat 31 inch tires and a healthy (stock) 400 big block with an Edelbrock manifold and 600cfm carb, 727 trans and 3.54 gears..... oh and it was 2WD then. 10.5 MPG running @ 55-60, and 8 MPG towing 5k lbs. @ 55. And gas was “cheap” at $1.99.... I can’t imagine the fuel bill now. I’m grateful for the knowledge shared by ya’ll on this forum, as well as the inspiration. Thanks guys!
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From: Riverside, CA
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From: Prince George, BC
My 73 originally had the small tripod with the same style mirror head.
When I first got the truck 2 years ago, it hat 31 inch tires and a healthy (stock) 400 big block with an Edelbrock manifold and 600cfm carb, 727 trans and 3.54 gears..... oh and it was 2WD then. 10.5 MPG running @ 55-60, and 8 MPG towing 5k lbs. @ 55. And gas was “cheap” at $1.99.... I can’t imagine the fuel bill now. I’m grateful for the knowledge shared by ya’ll on this forum, as well as the inspiration. Thanks guys!
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Southern California
Jimbo,
I have a Viair 380-C (200 psi continuous) on my truck and I have the switch set at 175 psi,
I have it wired using 8-gauge wire directly from my rear AGM batteries through a 40-amp relay.
I had it fused with a 40-amp ato style fuse and I was continually melting them, now I use a 30-amp cartridge fuse like you would find on your home air conditioner and it has not blown yet.
I am using an adjustable Dayton pressure switch to trigger the relay.
When I had it wired using 10-gauge wire, it worked but the wire would get pretty hot since it runs for about 5 minuets at a time to fill my tanks.
Maybe increase your wire size especially if you are far from your battery and use a quality fuse.
Do you have an ammeter so you can check the current draw on the motor?
Jim
I have a Viair 380-C (200 psi continuous) on my truck and I have the switch set at 175 psi,
I have it wired using 8-gauge wire directly from my rear AGM batteries through a 40-amp relay.
I had it fused with a 40-amp ato style fuse and I was continually melting them, now I use a 30-amp cartridge fuse like you would find on your home air conditioner and it has not blown yet.
I am using an adjustable Dayton pressure switch to trigger the relay.
When I had it wired using 10-gauge wire, it worked but the wire would get pretty hot since it runs for about 5 minuets at a time to fill my tanks.
Maybe increase your wire size especially if you are far from your battery and use a quality fuse.
Do you have an ammeter so you can check the current draw on the motor?
Jim
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Joined: Mar 2014
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From: PA near Harrisburg
Of course I drove it very conservatively and never tromped on the go pedal...
Pretty sure a 460 would have been an all around improvement but the 400M was OK.
LOL!
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Most likely it's disconnected, or the track is blocked or filled with crud.
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From: Riverside, CA
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From: Commerce, OK
Were bucket seats available in the 89?
Thanks for the info.
Edwin
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Looneyville, West Virginia
You shouldn't have to pull the seat out, just look underneath it. There is a spring loaded latch on both sides connected by a wire from the drivers side handle to the passenger side latch. The latches could be gummed up, bent or the return springs are broke or missing. Probably an easy fix as long as the wire isn't broken. That might be harder to find. The good news is the parts should all be the same from a multitude of years and across all the D & W100's to 350's as long as it's a bench seat.