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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
Been at the speed shop 3 months. The rear bearing in my tailshaft had decided to go four separate ways. So while the tranny was out I had them install a low stall converter, upgraded flex plate, shift kit and new bands.
It feels a lot tighter and more responsive. Temp stayed around 170* but I've not driven it much and not towed yet either.
If you get that figured out, please do a thread on it and share it with us here. That would be sweet! I wonder if you could carefully trim away the plastic that fits the contour of the window area, and make it work in the stock mounting location. If the wing windows weren’t such a part of the truck I would consider just replacing it with a piece of metal. That way if I ever wanted to go back all that would have to be done: would be to put the glass back in. Maybe that would shake too much though.
Originally Posted by 73CrewCab
X2!
A lot of us here are lost for mirror options. Something that looks like it could have been factory, instead of an after thought, is the key here. I could get creative with sheet metal screws and a tube of monkey snot, but a little form mixed with function is a better choice.
I'd absolutely share it with everybody. I'm just hoping to come across a set for cheap, like from wrecked truck, as I know there's potential that they could get destroyed.
Went to drive the truck today and click! No start. It did this before so I think it's the contacts in the starter. So guess what I'll be doing next weekend.
Could be but I haven't spent much time tracking it down. Don't feel up to my usual 50% lately. I put the solenoid parts on order to have them just in case hopefully I'll feel better tomorrow to figure it out for sure. It's one of those intermittent things we all love to hate.
I got out today and did some checking with my meter and a jumper. The starter relay on the inside of the left fender close to the battery needed its plug cleaned. I pulled each spade connector out of the plug and carefully pried it apart and bent the leaves closer together and cleaned them. I also sanded the spades in the relay a bit to shine them up. It seems to start fine now.
I ordered the solenoid contacts also which should be here Thursday but hopefully I won't need them for a good while. I dread getting under the truck to take out the starter.
Well gotta find a cab side E-brake cable. Went to engage it last night, heard a pop and straight to the floor. Luckily they disengaged the drum and I'm still able to drive it.
I put my $30 specials on this weekend. Holy mother of vision! I can see! I’m not 100% sold on these mirrors, because of the mounting setup, but lane changes are 100 times easier.
These will make pulling an 8 1/2 wide trailer across the country more comfortable. Now I just have to hope my house in AZ sells before my lease is up on the house I live in (end of May).
I pulled into Sonic yesterday and discovered that my truck with stock mirrors will no longer fit in between their fscking ordering signs! I told them so at the drive through window. I know it won't do any good but I had to vent.
Today I got over to Fastenal and got some grade-8 bolts and nuts to replace the Home Depot bolts I originally used in my trailer hitch. Then I discovered I don't have a 15/16 impact socket. Oh well. Mo money for tools. I'm pretty sure the hitch will hold pretty much whatever I set on it.
The 40amp fuse for my air compressor blew again. Hmmmmm.......
While I have determined the pressure switch is faulty, I don't think it's likely to be the reason for a short or overcurrent. Surprisingly, a new Viair 400C kit is only about $160 on Amazon. I may step up to one with a better duty cycle if it's not too much more.
The 40amp fuse for my air compressor blew again. Hmmmmm.......
While I have determined the pressure switch is faulty, I don't think it's likely to be the reason for a short or overcurrent. Surprisingly, a new Viair 400C kit is only about $160 on Amazon. I may step up to one with a better duty cycle if it's not too much more.
I had a Crapman A/C that had a bleeder valve to bleed off the air on the piston when it shut off. This enabled it to start easier next time. Could this be your problem?
I'm not certain. There's a check valve in the discharge line from the cylinder head. I recall that, the pressure switch being faulty, would cause the compressor to cycle for maybe 1 second every so often and even a few times within a minute. I wonder if it could have done it enough within a short window that the frequent on and off of the motor could be hurting it.
I've had a new switch to replace the existing one for about a week now. I'll start with that and see what happens after then.
I'm not certain. There's a check valve in the discharge line from the cylinder head. I recall that, the pressure switch being faulty, would cause the compressor to cycle for maybe 1 second every so often and even a few times within a minute. I wonder if it could have done it enough within a short window that the frequent on and off of the motor could be hurting it.
I've had a new switch to replace the existing one for about a week now. I'll start with that and see what happens after then.
Your starting capacitor could also be going bad. Let me know if I can help.
Not sure it even has one. I don't know anything about the internals other than it being an oil-less compressor. I'm about clueless otherwise. Data tag on the compressor says max amperage draw should only be 28amps at a given pressure. Probably another detail to go along with it that I'm missing. It's wired exactly per Viair's diagram utilizing the correct relay, 14ga wires, IIRC. Maybe not ideal for the distance from the battery to the rear bumper. Shouldn't the relay help with that though? Aside from an internal short in the motor, I don't know what could cause a 40+ amp draw.
02-17-2018, 11:36 AM
