What did you do to your Gen 1 today?
in my experience it's almost always the cable between the two sides that gets unhooked or broke. Ram Chargers had buckets and a big center console. I had a set in my '86 Power Wagon, nice ride, room for all kinds of crap in the console, but not user friendly if you have a single cab and need a third spot for someone to sit.
in my experience it's almost always the cable between the two sides that gets unhooked or broke. Ram Chargers had buckets and a big center console. I had a set in my '86 Power Wagon, nice ride, room for all kinds of crap in the console, but not user friendly if you have a single cab and need a third spot for someone to sit.

Seriously, I've thought about putting a seat and belts in under the shell for people. They could be easily taken out if necessary. But then I don't have kids and almost never need room for a third person. In the old days you could strap them across the hood like a deer.

I would love to have a Ramcharger though.
If you have to pull the seat, think of all the loose change and dog fur you will find!!!
I'm sure Ollie has a few parts lying around. Most likely disconnected and easily fixed.
I'm sure Ollie has a few parts lying around. Most likely disconnected and easily fixed.

She can drive a stick just fine. She's been doing it for years without a problem. I like her for that. She's also been known to change filters and spark plugs on her own. She's also smarter than me but I wouldn't ever let her know that.
Went out to the barn and saw how clean she was sitting there all nice and warm and dry, looked outside at the cold rain.............walked out shut the door and had the wife drop me off at work..... 

That's what the bed is for. 
Seriously, I've thought about putting a seat and belts in under the shell for people. They could be easily taken out if necessary. But then I don't have kids and almost never need room for a third person. In the old days you could strap them across the hood like a deer.
I would love to have a Ramcharger though.

Seriously, I've thought about putting a seat and belts in under the shell for people. They could be easily taken out if necessary. But then I don't have kids and almost never need room for a third person. In the old days you could strap them across the hood like a deer.

I would love to have a Ramcharger though.
Are we talking about a shop compressor or a 12V compressor in your truck?
If it's a shop compressor running on single phase 120VAC then there is probably a capacitor and a starter winding in series with a centrifugal switch on the shaft of the motor. The cap shifts the phase of the AC in the starter winding to get the motor going. When it's up to speed the centrifugal switch opens and cuts off the starter winding. If the cap is weak the motor doesn't have enough starting torque and will blow fuses because the main winding draws to much current.
14 gauge is a bit light on the wire if you have a 40 amp fuse in the circuit. usually for 30 amps requires 10 gauge wire.
Edwin
If it's a shop compressor running on single phase 120VAC then there is probably a capacitor and a starter winding in series with a centrifugal switch on the shaft of the motor. The cap shifts the phase of the AC in the starter winding to get the motor going. When it's up to speed the centrifugal switch opens and cuts off the starter winding. If the cap is weak the motor doesn't have enough starting torque and will blow fuses because the main winding draws to much current.
14 gauge is a bit light on the wire if you have a 40 amp fuse in the circuit. usually for 30 amps requires 10 gauge wire.
Edwin
It's probably a series wound brush DC motor. Voltage drop will cause it to draw excessive current, blowing fuses and switches. 14G is way too light. Should be about 10G. 25' of 14G will drop almost 2 volts. The increased current would make that even more. 25' of 10G drops about 0.6V.
Also, a mini-ISO relay (30 amp) is a little light for the application. Use a Maxi-ISO relay, the one with 3/8" terminals for the power circuit.
Also, a mini-ISO relay (30 amp) is a little light for the application. Use a Maxi-ISO relay, the one with 3/8" terminals for the power circuit.
I agree with this. On the industrial machines I work on (99% of them are three phase power), they have a thermal overload (basically an adjustable circuit breaker). I set them at 110% of what the actual running amp draw for the motor is. So if the electric motor is drawing 30 amps, I would install a 33 amp fuse. Since a 33 amp isn’t available, I’d run 35 or 40 amp. Better yet, install a resetable circuit breaker. Now, if you have a stuck check valve on the out-port from the head, it will cause too much pressure, and the motor just isn’t strong enough to get it going. One way to check this, is to crack the valve loose and let it bleed off. While it’s loose, turn on the motor. If it starts running and blows air, that’s your problem. If not, it could be the wire size....or even a bad, or undersized ground. Or a short of course.
By the pressure gauge in the tank, it shuts off at 140psi. While the switch is set for an OFF pressure of 145psi, I assume the differential is because the switch is in a 'T' connected to the discharge line and check valve from the compressor. The switch is set for an ON pressure of 110psi. So far seems to be operating as per those settings.
Jimbo,
I have a Viair 380-C (200 psi continuous) on my truck and I have the switch set at 175 psi,
I have it wired using 8-gauge wire directly from my rear AGM batteries through a 40-amp relay.
I had it fused with a 40-amp ato style fuse and I was continually melting them, now I use a 30-amp cartridge fuse like you would find on your home air conditioner and it has not blown yet.
I am using an adjustable Dayton pressure switch to trigger the relay.
When I had it wired using 10-gauge wire, it worked but the wire would get pretty hot since it runs for about 5 minuets at a time to fill my tanks.
Maybe increase your wire size especially if you are far from your battery and use a quality fuse.
Do you have an ammeter so you can check the current draw on the motor?
Jim
I have a Viair 380-C (200 psi continuous) on my truck and I have the switch set at 175 psi,
I have it wired using 8-gauge wire directly from my rear AGM batteries through a 40-amp relay.
I had it fused with a 40-amp ato style fuse and I was continually melting them, now I use a 30-amp cartridge fuse like you would find on your home air conditioner and it has not blown yet.
I am using an adjustable Dayton pressure switch to trigger the relay.
When I had it wired using 10-gauge wire, it worked but the wire would get pretty hot since it runs for about 5 minuets at a time to fill my tanks.
Maybe increase your wire size especially if you are far from your battery and use a quality fuse.
Do you have an ammeter so you can check the current draw on the motor?
Jim
Got a few more inches of snow the other day and decided I would go out and plow today in Sno-ball. Well the plow was having some issues, would just click at the solenoid and after 20 cycles on the switch it "might" work. Gave it a few whacks with a hammer and made no real difference, so after a bunch of wasted time messing with it I decided to hook up the block heater on the Case skid steer and then run into town and grab another solenoid.
All they had was a solenoid for a western plow system, no duty rating on it but it had 3 poles like mine so figured I would give it a shot. Got it installed and right away I knew something was not right....the solenoid was buzzing, not clicking. Figured I would do some plowing anyway.....well that lasted less then 10 min then the plow went into full run mode and wanted to only turn the plow the the left, stayed running regardless of the ignition on or not......had to turn the plow all the way to the right, then quickly jump out and disconnect the battery.
So parked it and fired up the skidsteer and finished my plowing. Did some research and seems I need a continues duty 150amp unit, so not sure how stout that one I bought was? Guess I'll order a new HD unit and see what happens.
All they had was a solenoid for a western plow system, no duty rating on it but it had 3 poles like mine so figured I would give it a shot. Got it installed and right away I knew something was not right....the solenoid was buzzing, not clicking. Figured I would do some plowing anyway.....well that lasted less then 10 min then the plow went into full run mode and wanted to only turn the plow the the left, stayed running regardless of the ignition on or not......had to turn the plow all the way to the right, then quickly jump out and disconnect the battery.
So parked it and fired up the skidsteer and finished my plowing. Did some research and seems I need a continues duty 150amp unit, so not sure how stout that one I bought was? Guess I'll order a new HD unit and see what happens.
https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...HVgBBVoQ8wIISA
I was told Trombetta was the best manufacturer for solenoid, although I've never purchased one.
I was told Trombetta was the best manufacturer for solenoid, although I've never purchased one.
https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...HVgBBVoQ8wIISA
I was told Trombetta was the best manufacturer for solenoid, although I've never purchased one.
I was told Trombetta was the best manufacturer for solenoid, although I've never purchased one.

Sno-Ball was still sporting the original Chrysler marked solenoid....







