Thank you! No need to modify the pistons in my case. The Cummins manual calls for a .010" over gasket for any block that has been machined .006". Of course, assuming the cam, valve recession, etc. remains stock or within specifications. Initially, I decided on a .020" over gasket but after seeing how close the injector spray pattern was to the lip of the piston bowl with the timing of my injection pump, I exchanged it for the .010".

With piston protrusion now at .023", valve recession in the range of .045-.050", at TDC exhaust stroke on #1, my piston to valve clearance came out to .061". Hamilton specifies a minimum of .040" for his cams in a street build with cast pistons.

Factors such as valve recession, cam lobe lift, expansion from heat and head gasket thickness are all things to be considered in any engine that's no longer completely stock though. If a cam has enough lift, valve recession is low enough or if a .020" over gasket doesn't provide ample clearance, then fly cuts or valve reliefs would be necessary in the crown of each piston.

No, sir. It's original. Just some elbow grease, a scrubbing brush, Fast Orange and hot water.

I didn't plan on that.

 

Lighting is key It really does make a big difference though.watch the lighting when you take pictures snd they will improve.


Too bad your truck had to come apart again Jim. looks good though.

 

Curious, Jim, as to how long it takes you now from popping up the hood to engine on your engine stand. I'm sure you've clocked yourself, LOL.

So, aren't you glad I didn't take you up on your offering on that beefy stand you built? You mentioned after your last build that you no longer needed it.

Looks good, all your work. One of the things I wish I did when I installed my rear billet freeze plug, was run the bypass like you did. My plug did come ported for that, but I plugged it up. If I ever chose to do it one day, where did you source that elbow with the port, the elbow that mounts at the T-stat location?

 

Thank ya. It was unfortunate but glad it's over now.

I didn't time myself. I know I didn't have the engine out within a day but I'd bet the total time from hood up to engine on the stand and transmission on the jack probably added up to less than a day. All the days I've spent working on it have become one big blur.

It is a good thing I didn't let go of that stand so quick given my situation! A buddy of mine wants to pull his engine to overhaul his engine bay sometime in the near future. I offered to let him borrow it if he wants it. I'll clean it up and get it painted pretty and probably sell it after he's done with it.

The elbow you speak of is the t-stat housing itself. It's from a 94-98 p-pump engine. The port is for a vent/purge line that connects to the cylinder head just behind the t-stat. It requires the use of 2 seals associated with it. The 94-98 t-stat is a different part number than the t-stat for 89-93 but is also a 180*F. I didn't compare sizes or fitment though so I can't say that it would work. Unfortunately, the seal for the early, 89-93 housing is slightly smaller and wouldn't work. Not that I found out the hard way but I ordered what I saw I needed based on QuickServe diagrams. Now, why the need for 2 seals? I have no clue. Seems the shoulder of the "inner" seal would simply need to be taller by about 1/8". There must be a reason for it though and somebody probably knows more than I do. I can provide part numbers if you'd like. Just a heads-up... I paid $77 for the housing alone from Cummins.

 

$77! Dang manufacturing costs, LOL. I have learned to not be surprised anymore on car and truck parts costs. What I don't understand, is paying $85 for a 6'X 200' role of weed barrier. My wife's getting tired of pulling weeds by hand, and is on a mission to weed barrier and black mulch all our planter areas on 5 acres!
Hate paying the money for stuff I'll never see once covered, LOL. She's sending me to Home Depot for 3 more roles!!!!!
Thanks for replying back, Jim.

 

I just priced out the fastenal spring to convert the HVLP to a LVLP, to get one up here in BC will be an outrageous $35!

Anyone have a spare they would be will to sell and ship to me.

 

Is this something I could buy for you and then mail up there? Are they killing you with shipping charges?

Fastenal? Do you have a link to the web page for the spring you need?

Edwin

 

I just checked and Fastenal is just down the road for me. About 1.5 miles. I would be glad to go pick up the spring for you and mail it up there.

Edwin

 

Good Man, Edwin!

 

I drove my old piece to the Ford dealership to get parts for my family vehicle... 2007 Expedition Max with 5.4 triton in it.

And I grinned all the way!!! She's big old slow rusty crusty dusty loud and ... mechanical!!

The variable timing solenoids have plugged up and caused the engine on the Ford to run extremely rough and sputter and die!!! I truly have no idea how to change these things out ... so much stuff to unhook and unbolt to even get to the valve covers but I know I can't afford Fords shop rate of $155 per hour so I gotta try.

perhaps between the newer junker Ford and the old crusty dodge I'll learn a thing or two about wrenching!

Can't say enough thank yous to the fellas on DTR that patiently walk me through the seemingly simplest fixes and info on the dodge!!
Tipping my hat to you guys again

SD

 

For that Ford, I would invest in a decent code reader, then get a Chilton or Haynes manual to assist in fixing. YouTube it if you still need further assistance after the Chilton manual and code reader.

As an example- we bought my son a decent, inexpensive car for his last two years in high school in 2013. It was a 1998 Lexus ES300. We were the second owners. It had 189,000. It leaked oil, needed spark plugs changed, all that stuff. Mechanically, it needed some work, but the interior was immaculate.
One day my son is ahead of me in that Lexus and I'm in my Dodge following, and he runs thru a red light! He immediately called me in a panic to say he had no brakes! When we got home, I plugged in that code reader and with the help of the Chilton manual, it listed a fault in some solenoid I knew nothing about. I didn't know where it was in the engine bay, nothing.
The Chilton manual explained briefly how to check the solenoid for fault, along with pics, but a YouTube video showed exactly where it was in the engine bay. While watching the video, the mechanic on there also said to check on two of these filter screen deals, inside two ports covered by a galley plug. Remove the galley plugs, and clean out the screen filters inside these ports. Upon further reading of the Chilton manual, it said if the screens have debris or get plugged, it may cause a brake failure. So, I replaced the solenoid, and cleaned out those filters just for reassurance.
So, the code reader, the book, and some YouTube helped me fix a problem on a car that I had no clue on how to work on.

 

New to the site but interested more in this. What is the spring and how did you verify its pressure? I also have fastenal local. I see the hungry diesel has a spring but is $50.

 

I replaced the tie rod ends on my CTD RC with Moog units and aligned it with a tape measure. Its like brand new. I don't need a steering damper now!!!

 

Well you can now add "Liar" to your Resume as well as "banned twice" from DTR.

 

Hard to get around those pesky IP addresses I guess ...Mark