Just having fun changing out brake hoses and breaking hard lines. Anybody have a spare front passenger side hard line in their pocket?!!! I'm going to have to make that one since the one on the parts truck is boogered up. At this point, the rear lines are looking like a total loss. Since I'm done with lunch I better crawl under the back of the parts rig and start rippin and tearing. Looks like I'm ditching the RWAL unit since I can't get the bleeder to budge. So much fun.

 

All I can say is get copper lines. You can literally bend them by hand.

I ripped out my fusible links and installed maxi fuses today while I had my fenders off. Then I put the fenders and hood back on.

 

Nope, don't use copper lines. They'll fail you in a panic stop, too soft.

There are various hand tools made that make bending steel brake lines easy. Using stock lines and couplers you can replace anything in short order and have it fairly neat and certainly safe.

 

Nickle copper are nice to work with. and wont fatigue like copper.

 

Do you have a NAPA nearby? They sell ready made lines that are of various lengths and some of them are inside a coil spring that lets you bend them by hand. I wouldn't use copper either, like jmartin said, too soft...Mark

 

This is where I got my lines. When I say copper, I mean "copper nickel alloy DOT approved"
Fedhill brake line - Where to buy brake line, fuel line, brake line flaring tools, brake line nuts and brake line fittings

 

Went to haul some pictures today and then stopped by Trader Joe's for some groceries. When we came out the truck wouldn't start. It acted like it was out of fuel. The gauge said 1/4 tank but how reliable is that. The low fuel light wasn't on either.

Called AAA to bring some fuel and the truck still wouldn't start. I worked the lever on the pump but it feels like there is no resistance. I took off the bleeder on top of the fuel filter but I couldn't get any fuel to pump there either. So I'm thinking the lift pump is suspect.

Called the tow truck and had to push the truck out so he could get under the front. His truck almost couldn't lift the front of my truck. Got home though and had the truck backed into the driveway.

Tried starting again and the truck eventually started up and runs fine. Went to fill up and got 19.5 gallons which means I had at least 8 gallons in the tank.

The only thing I can figure is that at Trader Joe's I parked uphill. In my driveway it's downhill. The Injection pump can pull fuel downhill but not UP!

Went to O'Reilly's and they want $63.00 for a new pump. They didn't have one in stock anyway. Stopped at Auto Zonk and couldn't get any service because they are so disorganized. Won't go back there. I'll try Hub Auto on Wednesday. Glad I'm not going anywhere tomorrow.

Is there some reason diaphragm pumps don't last? This one has less than 10,000 miles.

 

Hmmm, I didn't have problems with diaphram pumps, but I did recently change to a piston pump. Try to get a Carter/Cummins pump?

The brake nightmare continues. I did get the RWAL bleeder freed up. Removed the hard line to the hose, broke of course and left the rear main line from the master alone. It will need to get replaced but for now seems solid enough. I don't want to drop the fuel tank to replace that line right now. I'm sure that would lead to more rust related problems plus the tank is almost full. I did salvage the rear diff brake lines and RWAL to hose line from the parts truck. What a thrash. More fun tomorrow!

Are the ends of the hard lines a double flare?

 

I think the brake lines are double flared yes.

I priced the parts to go to a piston pump and it's only about $30 more than replacing the diaphragm pump so I may go that way. It's more work but what the heck. Do the piston pumps last longer?

 

I don't know about the longevity of the piston lift pumps. I replaced my original years ago when my engine started making oil! No running issues that I could tell.

That copper nickel tubing seems like the way to go. I'd like to use it on everything. I've had to replace the powering steering tubing when it rusted and broke off when I replaced a hose. Need to find an affordable, decent flaring tool.

 

Edwin,

My fuel pump just went out last May, coming back from a job on the I-210 it just felt like I was losing power and when I got off on Azusa Ave it started to stall, got it home and once I shut it off, it would not start again.

Diagnosed it as the fuel pump before I was even home, the priming lever was limp.

I got home, pulled the pump and went in to find a replacement, I usually have a spare one at home but I remember I had already used it and forgot to replace it.

I checked all of the locals, O'Reillys, Auto Zone and they all had a 1 year warranty and could have one by morning so I called Pep Boys by chance,

My store did not have one here in Covina but the store in Monrovia had one and I ask him how can I get it cheaper?

He told me to order it on line and then pick it up locally

I ordered it on line got a 20% and had it delivered to the Monrovia store that had one in stock, had my wife picked it up in the morning for me.

The total price was $52.19 and it has a lifetime warranty.

Not saying they are good or bad but at least the next one is free.

I installed it and had the truck running in less than an hour.

Someday I will install a piston style pump hoping the MTBF is a bit better than the diaphragm style.

All of the fuel pumps that have failed have been a broken spring or linkage, never a ruptured diaphragm.

BTW,
Yes, brake lines are double flared

If I were in the rust belt or just wanted to cool looking brake lines, I would get stainless steel.

https://puredieselpower.com/dodge-pr...-line-kit.html

this would be a lot easier than laying under your truck with a stick of tubing and a hand bender

Jim

 

I wouldnt waste my time with an AF diaphragm pump. A lot of members with fuel pressure gauges have reported 0-3 psi when they were new and 3-5 psi with a genuine Cummins. I would just do the piston lift pump upgrade in the sticky. I would have stuck with the diphram pump to save time and money but, the huge pro to the lift pump is that it wont dump fuel into the oil system if it fails.

 

Yes they are double flared. The easiest way I found do do the line behind the tank is to just cut the old line and leave it where it is. Then fish a new line through. You can always drop the tank later when you have more of a reason to remove it.

 

Edwin, I have been running a piston lift pump since 2008, still the same one I got from Cummins back in the day when I learned about that upgrade. I took the part numbers from the sticky and went shopping. The only tough part about the install is trimming off some of the tappet cover insulation. You only need to trim of about an 1 1/2" overall just to clear the line coming from the pump to the fuel filter. Use a sharp razor knife(not a dremmel tool, LOL). You will be in an awkward, rib hurting position, so put some padding on the truck.

I have never troubled myself by worrying about that inner spring that everyone is concerned about. On a clean fuel filter I see 18psi at idle. Been that way for 8 years. At around 12,000 miles, when it's time to swap in a new fuel filter, my gage shows around 13psi at idle and pulls down to 9 or 10psi at full throttle. Way above factory spec.
The only thing I did, cause I didn't want pressure spikes ruining my expensive fuel gage is put in a snubber. I sourced that along with the gage from Genos garage.

 

"I would get stainless steel.

https://puredieselpower.com/dodge-pr...-line-kit.html

this would be a lot easier than laying under your truck with a stick of tubing and a hand bender"

I like this.

"The easiest way I found do do the line behind the tank is to just cut the old line and leave it where it is. Then fish a new line through. You can always drop the tank later when you have more of a reason to remove it."

That would work.