Yep that's all !

I'm sure the gearing has something to do with it... I have no idea what the gearing is though.

I'm also sure the injectors could use a "tune-up" ... if that's even possible.

And I'm almost positive the IP has never been touched ... because I had to remove the tamper proof cone thingy on the throttle stop bolt ... maybe someone has been on the inside of it but I have not.

Anyways, 67 mph was it ... gotta be a reason people call these things bricks

SD

 

SD, what kind of fuel mileage you getting in your rig? It sounds like you do not have the fuel pedal cable, actuator Rod, etc., adjusted properly. Did you ever get a field service shop manual? They describe in detail how to adjust. You should at least be able to get to 80 mph, I would think.
If your ever curious as to what exactly came with your truck, go to your local dealer, give them your entire vin #. They can print you out a two page sheet with everything that came with that truck, along with any factory options that were available back in the day. Won't cost a thing but your time. Then you'll know for sure, and it'll help when you're at the parts house getting parts for your rig, as these parts guys will ask certain questions(what front axle weight, for example. Anytime I buy stuff for the front end, seems they always need to know that)

 

Ragu... mileage is not great, 10-12 around town and the truck has so many issues that I dear not drive too far on the highway!?!?

I just assume this is normal mileage for a big old heavy 4x4 diesel... never had one before and this is all new to me.

Yes I did get the FSM on CD from genos... have read a lot and learn a lot ... I'll read up on the adjustments

Thanks SD

 

You may have something simple like a small air leak. My truck is heavily laden, several hundred pounds of tools, a big steel rack and 94 gallons of extra fuel, usually heavy loads and I get consistent 20 mpg. I view projects like this as a whole bunch of little thing to do, but I do them one at a time and eventually there are none left...Mark

 

Got the dead brick running today. Replaced the sticky ignition switch, and since dodge sent me,the incorrect lock cylinder, I reused it temporarily. Still works.. Just a bit sloppy.

The no start condition was not the ignition switch or the lock cyl. It was the 25 year old starter relay. Relay wire from it to the connector where the starter solenoid quick connect is, melted and popped the fuse where it was a fusable link. Temporarily fixed it, but ordered new 30amp relay harness from Hella. At least I can drive it again. I was in withdrawal..

 

Correct me,if I'm wrong, but don't you buy south of the border " real " diesel, and not this usld crap we have here?
Which would explain real fuel mileage

 

I used to, but the price of fuel in Mexico is not set by the market, it is set by the government owned Pemex and it never goes down. It is so high that the exchange rate doesn't even help much. Right now, the price is about 17.5 pesos per liter. Coincidentally the exchange rate is also about 17.5 pesos per dollar, makes the math easy. So, that is about a bit less than 4 bucks a gallon here. I paid $2.29 per gallon the last time I filled up in AZ, pure economics.As you may remember, I have about a 2200 mile range (give or take) So I only fill it up about 4 times a year. I can also drive through expensive states (read:Calofornia) and buy in cheaper states. I went to Oregon several years ago, up highway 395 after coming through death valley (great place). While I didn't need to fillup, the last gas station in Cal was like $3.50 a gallon and right across the border in Minden Nevada, it was $2.50. Since I installed the big tank, it has cost anywhere from 400 dollars to 150 to fill it up...Mark

 

Hey Augie,
Here is the stuff that I used,
It is called:
Evap Foam
No Rinse
#4171-75
from Nu-Calgon

Evap Foam No Rinse

I think I bought this can from Johnstone Supply.
Home Depot also sometimes carries an aerosol coil cleaner but I do not remember it working so well.

Nu-Calgon is made for the professional in the HVAC industry, and I would trust then over a no name product.

Nu-Calgon

I used to do a lot of work on a mobile of air conditioning units, and most of them were near impossible to even access the evap so I used to drill a small hole in the airbox and then spray in Lysol Spray to freshen it up, the evaporators can get real nasty smelling when the owners were smokers.

For best AC performance, you need to clean your evaporator and condenser regularly, think about it, how dirty your home HVAC filter gets after a few months.

I have had to support the A-coils on furnaces from the attic and then drop the heater section away so I could get to the underside of the a-coil and clean them out, some were completely blocked with dirt and cat hair from running them without a filter

Jim

 

Check for a metal tag on your differential under one of the cover bolts, it will have the ratio if it is still there,
There should also be a tag under the hood with a list of options that should have the axle ratio.

Geez,
If you could not get past 67 MPH here in So Cal you would get run off the road by any variety of illegal un-licensed un-insured drivers.



If I had a 4X4 I do not think I would even try to go this fast, a 4X4 I believe would be too un-aerodynamic and unstable at high speed.

My truck is low and it rides better at higher speeds than crusing around town.

Could you imagine Death Wobble popping its head up at 90 MPH?

You would suck all the buttons off of your seat trying to regain control.

After I installed my 1 1/2" of padding under my carpet I had to readjust my pedal travel so I still got WOT

If you are from SoCal, see if you can pick up on the hidden message.

Jim

 

My rig is bone stock, except that the pump is pushed to the head...Mark

 

I've been on the 91 fwy going through Corona at 80 mph in Bumper-Bumper traffic. It was kind of fun in my VW Jetta TDI. Not so much in my truck. Extremely high pucker factor.

About ready to tackle the front wheel bearings and brakes. Hopefully I can find the right seals and pads for the Dually hubs. Wish me luck.

Edwin

 

Good luck Edwin!!!...Mark

 

Well the left side is done! Only 3 trips to the parts stores. Hub Auto in Costa Mesa had all the parts. Rotors, Pads and seals. FYI the bearings on the left side are Timkin Outer 15101, Inner LM501349 and Seal is 493291. The calipers weren't leaking so they should be good for a while. Probably another 10 or 15 stops.

Here's why I had to replace the rotors.




Well I took off the right wheel and started to unbolt the caliper. SUPRISE! One of the bolts had been twisted off. SO the PO idiot put the bolt back in the hole and WELDED IT! Why do people do stupid crap like this? All it took was some WD-40 a drill and an easy-out to get the stub out. Then I had to grind the weld off. SHEESH!

 

Getting a tad thin.....good catch though!

 

Minimum once, sometimes twice, I disassemble my front calipers to grease them. They love to freeze up every year or so, and this helps