I have been meaning to make up a throw away wallet, just has fallen through the cracks. One thing that I do is I have many old car keys that I hang in my house because the crooks like to steal your car too. I would like to see them trying to start any of my cars with those keys. I have all 3 keys to the 4Runner here with me in Mexico...Mark

 

Mark! Were you not the bloke that planted the "FSS disconnect switch" seed in my head, like 3 years ago?! I just did that, posted about it, and sounds like you don't have one?
Just kidding, but if you still haven't, the plus side to doing it is that it'll rid of that factory slip on terminal, that has caused myself and others on here panic when their truck suddenly dies out. Ring terminals anchored down, baby! Only slip on connector I have now, to the VE is to the KSB, only because of that M&H spacer and its squirrly ways in cold weather allows me to quickly disconnect it if need be.

 

When I wired mine, I hid the wire in the wiring harness so that anyone that knows these trucks would not look at it and see 2 wires. Probably overkill ...Mark P.S. Yes I think I did sow that idea...

 

Just funnin' with ya, union brother

 

Pulled the DEAD BRICK's seat belt out today. Since I can't start the truck, I figured good time to get the seatbelt retractor fixed.

Several years ago, I had the seatbelt rebuilt and new tongue and belt added. Been fine since.

The other day, I went to pull forwards, and I heard something snap. The inertia stop .... well, I guess it failed. This made it so that the belt will unravel all the way, all the time. Not good in an accident, so I called Seatbeltplanet.com back and they said send it in. Not warrantied, but that's not really what is important. Functionality is, otherwise, I'd be eating my windshield in a bad impact.

Still evaluating the seat in my fuso. Don't think it's gonna work in the dodge, as there just isn't enough headroom in the cab. That suspension has a 4" travel, and with the base height being what it is, even if I mounted it the way I needed to, it's still too tall.... or so I'm beginning to believe.

I guess if I recessed the floor, I could do it, but then I'd be all rat rodding things, now wouldn't I ?


In the meantime, I think I'm gonna head down the shore to see the surfers in the waves. We here, in the Toxic Avenger State, have a dedicated group of surfers different from anywhere else in the country. California surfers, eat your hearts out.. !!

Deer emerges from the surf | NJ.com


Our surfers taste good when made into burgers....

lol

 

I finally fixed the door lock actuator on the right side so now I can unlock the doors without having to reach over and the wife doesn't have to use her key. I fixed it once before but I didn't secure the wires in the unit well enough and they pulled out.

It's the little things that count.

 

Last night I rewired a relay circuit that supplies power to my dash pod, Boost, Pyrometer and Voltmeter gauges and then after it finally cooled off, I washed my truck.

Then today,
I opened up my air box and cleaned out a handful of leaves, then I cleaned the evaporator coils.

I used an aerosol foaming coil cleaner that is commercially available,

Sprayed it on, waited a few minutes and then I flushed it out using hot water in a spray bottle after heading my truck downhill down the driveway so all of the dirty soapy water would drain from the air box.



Now the cold air smells lemony fresh.



Reinstalled the cover until next time.

Jim

 

Other than a Slakey Bros, Johnstone supply, etc. where else are you sourcing this coil cleaner, that's lemony fresh in scent? I could use some nice scent in my rig, LOL. I have commercial grade coil cleaner that I've used on my own condensing unit at home, but no lemon scent there.
Back in 2012 our company Johnson Controls, put me on light duty work, doing inventory and putting labels on EVERY item in our shop. When it was all said and done, we probably had 80 half opened gallon containers of coil cleaning solution, as these dang lazy service techs would rather just buy a new bottle at the supply house than scourge thru the shop to find ones available. What a waste! Ended up going to the hazmat recycle. Another item that was abundant, in half used containers was refrigerant oils. No wonder our JCI branch was in the red! Shop ended up closing down.

 

Good morning gents... yesterday I finally got around to installing the fuel pedal I cut out at work. Didn't have the original to copy but it's a lot better than just the rod sticking down there ... a scrap of 3/16" diamond plate about 3" wide and 8" long did the trick.

I also pulled the slack out of the throttle cable at the pedal and added a spacer to hold it ... seems like I pulled a good 3/8" of slack if not a 1/2"!!!

Then I popped the hood and FINALLY took the tamper proof cone thingy off the throttle stop bolt (not sure if that's the correct terminology) and adjusted it back towards the firewall so I can get full travel on the throttle... maybe adjusted it a 1/4".

This is the first adjustment or tweak I've done on the fuel system at all and am a little nervous about doing anything else... she's my daily driver and I don't want to mess anything up.

SD

 

If your happy with it and it will do the work you ask of it then I say.....



DON'T TOUCH IT




it is a slippery slope, once you feel more power it is very hard to stop.

 

Farmboy... I haven't driven the truck yet. Getting ready to haul trash and pick up some lumber at hardware to build a bench to match the farm style kitchen table I build for the wife...

I'm sure I'll notice a big difference with the adjustments I made ... but I have bigger issues to address (body , rear end clunk, possible tranny work) than throwing good money at HP!!!

I'll let you guys know what I think after I drive it

SD

 

Just so you know you can make the throttle pedal from any early 70's and up RWD truck, car, van work.....as long as it's the "suspended" type, not bolt to the floor. I used one off a 71 Chrysler on my truck once, because I wanted to have the stainless trim on the pedal.....not a direct swap, but if you have a bit of back yard engineering experience you can easily make it work.

 

I agree with FB. If you're happy with it- key words- leave it alone. Unless you take precise notes, measurements, etc. it's hard to get it back to how you originally had it.

 

Well just got back from hauling trash and some errands around town ... WOW! Big difference in bottom end acceleration, truck does not seem to labor as it did before from starting off at stop light had a fair bit of pedal left when she topped out on the highway at the grand speed of 67mph!!!

Gained nothing on the top end (wasn't expecting to) but getting up through the 15-40 mph range was lickety split.

I did notice that it seems to be ideling a bit high ... some much so as soon as I let off the break she's rolling along. Does this seem out of place?

I'm not gonna start twisting this and turning that to get more HP any time soon ... though I'm glad I made the adjustments and surprised at the bottom end results

SD

 

67 MPH! Is that all? I've had my truck up to 90 before I chickened out. It was still climbing. The speedo only goes to 80 so I'm guessing a little about the 90 though.

Edwin