1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

What did you do to your Gen 1 today?

Old Nov 21, 2017 | 10:25 PM
  #4861  
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From: Rocket City USA - AKA Huntsville, AL
I pulled off the front running gear (upper and lower control arms and everything in between) from one of PapeCat's donor frames to convert my front running gear from single wheel 3/4 ton to DRW one ton.
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 04:47 AM
  #4862  
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From: Central KY
I finally got around to replacing my carrier bearing and the u-joint at the tranny.
In the process, my brother reminded me that dad had a 12 ton press buried in the corner of his shop. MAN that made the whole process a snap!
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 09:57 AM
  #4863  
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From: Commerce, OK
Originally Posted by KRB
I finally got around to replacing my carrier bearing and the u-joint at the tranny.
In the process, my brother reminded me that dad had a 12 ton press buried in the corner of his shop. MAN that made the whole process a snap!
I wailed on mine with a 3 pound hammer until my arm hurt then I asked my wife if they had a press in their shop. Took about 10 minutes for 2 remaining joints.
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 10:09 AM
  #4864  
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by edwinsmith
I wailed on mine with a 3 pound hammer until my arm hurt then I asked my wife if they had a press in their shop. Took about 10 minutes for 2 remaining joints.
Well, Edwin, you know that all that banging on the shaft end makes it perfectly balanced, so there's no high RPM vibrations on the road....

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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 11:11 AM
  #4865  
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From: Riverside, CA
NJTman have you driven it much since doing the roof? Is it any quieter? I’d think that you just added some sound deadening and strength to the roof skin. I’m thinking of having Mr Linex or Mr Rhino spray the inside of my cab. At least the floors, firewall, back of the cab and the bottoms of the doors, so when I climb in after a job, I can spray it out with the hose. Working on trash compactors, I get lots of hydraulic oil, mud and “compactor juice” (soda, juice, water, citrus, blood etc.) on my boots
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 02:21 PM
  #4866  
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From: Greenville south Carolina
Originally Posted by NJTman
Impervious to rain, snow, salt, air, or chicken soup. Could it rot from the inside? I suppose so, if moisture gets beyond the second layer of steel inside the roof.

Ill be spraying oil / or,fluid film inside where I can get in there for inside.
what is fluid film
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 03:31 PM
  #4867  
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From: vermont
Originally Posted by cabtruck
what is fluid film
A rust proofing oil that you can buy by the gallon, or in an aerosol can.
It is made with sheep lanolin, so it smells better than petroleum oils, at least to most people.

I use it on my inner door panels, in the roof screw holes from the inside ETC, basically anywhere where it is open to the inside and smell is a concern for me.
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 03:51 PM
  #4868  
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From: Prince George, BC
Originally Posted by oliver foster

A rust proofing oil that you can buy by the gallon, or in an aerosol can.
It is made with sheep lanolin, so it smells better than petroleum oils, at least to most people.

I use it on my inner door panels, in the roof screw holes from the inside ETC, basically anywhere where it is open to the inside and smell is a concern for me.
The sheep's wool oil is biodegradable as well.....And if you have a dumb dog that likes to lick grease/oil and other chemicals....it's a tad less harmful to them as well.
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 04:11 PM
  #4869  
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by 73CrewCab
NJTman have you driven it much since doing the roof? Is it any quieter? I’d think that you just added some sound deadening and strength to the roof skin. I’m thinking of having Mr Linex or Mr Rhino spray the inside of my cab. At least the floors, firewall, back of the cab and the bottoms of the doors, so when I climb in after a job, I can spray it out with the hose. Working on trash compactors, I get lots of hydraulic oil, mud and “compactor juice” (soda, juice, water, citrus, blood etc.) on my boots
Haven't driven it enough to notice anything different.
The linex dealer here does that to trucks , especially jeep. All the time. Really cool how you can just hose it all out.
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 05:10 PM
  #4870  
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Not too long ago, renewed all of the DANA70 rear axle including the Power-Loc differential. Then finished installing the new turbos.
Then burned up the Power-Loc (clutches). The clutch debris got into the carrier bearings, spinning their races in the diff housing. Fatally scared the bearing bores.

Now building a new axle.
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 05:11 PM
  #4871  
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From: Commerce, OK
Originally Posted by NJTman
Well, Edwin, you know that all that banging on the shaft end makes it perfectly balanced, so there's no high RPM vibrations on the road....

The way things have been going lately I don't get to drive it on the highway before something breaks again. The last thing was the battery and the regulator and I'm not sure about the regulator. The alternator was running overvoltage about 16.8 volts and cooked the battery. I got a new battery and a new regulator but the voltage was still high. I just checked again today and it was normal. I have a voltmeter bolted in but not hooked up yet so maybe tomorrow I'll get that done. Assuming I don't pass out from all the food.
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 05:37 PM
  #4872  
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From: Greenville south Carolina
Originally Posted by oliver foster

A rust proofing oil that you can buy by the gallon, or in an aerosol can.
It is made with sheep lanolin, so it smells better than petroleum oils, at least to most people.

I use it on my inner door panels, in the roof screw holes from the inside ETC, basically anywhere where it is open to the inside and smell is a concern for me.
so do you add more each year or is it a one time treatment? I’m lucky to live in the south and rust isn’t a big problem
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 05:55 PM
  #4873  
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From: vermont
Originally Posted by cabtruck
so do you add more each year or is it a one time treatment? I’m lucky to live in the south and rust isn’t a big problem
It depends on the rig, if I drive it through the winter or not, and where I am spraying it.
Say the inner door panel or a place that never sees the elements, I might spray only every few years.
The cab mounts, in the rockers, frame, suspension, axles and such I spray more often. I will pressure wash the dirt and loose junk before I reapply the oil.
The two trucks I drive in the winter [my '95s] I fully oil undercoat once if not twice a year to help keep the rust at bay.
The summer rigs I will do a full oil down, then just do touch ups if it needs it after that.
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 07:43 PM
  #4874  
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From: Greenville south Carolina
Originally Posted by oliver foster
It depends on the rig, if I drive it through the winter or not, and where I am spraying it.
Say the inner door panel or a place that never sees the elements, I might spray only every few years.
The cab mounts, in the rockers, frame, suspension, axles and such I spray more often. I will pressure wash the dirt and loose junk before I reapply the oil.
The two trucks I drive in the winter [my '95s] I fully oil undercoat once if not twice a year to help keep the rust at bay.
The summer rigs I will do a full oil down, then just do touch ups if it needs it after that.
ok until I read on here I’d never heard of spraying Oll under a truck makes sense . Our winter is easier than your summer also never heard of a summer and winter truck. I drive my junk year round
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 07:45 PM
  #4875  
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From: Commerce, OK
When you think about it, undercoating is just a really high viscosity oil.
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