1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

What did you do to your Gen 1 today?

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Old Nov 19, 2017 | 03:39 PM
  #4831  
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From: Commerce, OK
Originally Posted by thrashingcows
No jacket at 70*....hahahaha....that's friggin summer weather up here. I'd be in flip flops, T-shirt and shorts.....

Decided last night to also do another valve adjustment after I realized while doing a valve adjustment on my quad that I perhaps had been reading my feeler gauges wrong. I also realized after watching some vids of 12V valve adjustment, that I had been doing the companion/rocker method incorrectly.

So turns out I had my feeler gauges correct, and even though I had done the valve adjustment when lining the motor up incorrectly, they were all pretty much where they should be. One or two were a tad on the loose side, but over all they were well within spec.
YEP! You just gotta have the right feel with feeler gauges.

When the sun goes down we were chilly but nothing bad. I can't get used to it being totally dark with stars out at 5 friggin 30 in the evening! I hate this Daylight Saving Time. At least we aren't like my grandparents who went to bed with the chickens.

Edwin
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Old Nov 19, 2017 | 04:57 PM
  #4832  
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Originally Posted by thrashingcows
No jacket at 70*....hahahaha....that's friggin summer weather up here. I'd be in flip flops, T-shirt and shorts.....

Decided last night to also do another valve adjustment after I realized while doing a valve adjustment on my quad that I perhaps had been reading my feeler gauges wrong. I also realized after watching some vids of 12V valve adjustment, that I had been doing the companion/rocker method incorrectly.

So turns out I had my feeler gauges correct, and even though I had done the valve adjustment when lining the motor up incorrectly, they were all pretty much where they should be. One or two were a tad on the loose side, but over all they were well within spec.
TC, so what on the videos pointed out that made you feel you were doing the valve adjustment with the companion/rocker method incorrectly?
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Old Nov 19, 2017 | 07:23 PM
  #4833  
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From: Riverside, CA
Originally Posted by edwinsmith
In the land-o-liberals in SoCal we're lucky if it gets down to 50 so I don't bother with that lightweight oil. We have Santa Ana winds lately and the temps have been in the 70's
Hey Edwin, what city are you in? I’m in Riverside.

Today, I spent a little more time glueing the heck out of this ugly ABS tonneau cover (cut it down from a Ford SuperBooty shortbed)


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Old Nov 19, 2017 | 09:12 PM
  #4834  
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From: Commerce, OK
Originally Posted by 73CrewCab
Hey Edwin, what city are you in? I’m in Riverside.
I'm in the OC down in Santa Ana. Not that far from you. I used to live up by Glen Avon a long time ago. Your cover is looking good. I hope it stay together. Did you use small pieces of ABS to make lap joints or did you just butt everything up?

Edwin
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Old Nov 19, 2017 | 10:46 PM
  #4835  
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From: Riverside, CA
Not too far. It’s getting there and it was free. Everything is butt-glued together. The sides are very rigid, and I’m working on the back piece right now. I’ve glued the butt joint, as well as put about 1/4” of glue on the top and bottom side. Hopefully it will be fully cured by next weekend, so I can bolt it on. If it flexes at any joints, I’ll lap some pieces on the bottom side.
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Old Nov 19, 2017 | 10:53 PM
  #4836  
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From: Prince George, BC
Originally Posted by bigragu
TC, so what on the videos pointed out that made you feel you were doing the valve adjustment with the companion/rocker method incorrectly?
Well it was reading a description of the companion method...again...and realized I may have been doing it wrong. So then went to see if I could find some vids. After watching and listening to a few of them I realized what I had been doing wrong.

To set the valves at TDC on #1 I should have been watching the exhaust on #6 go down and then back up, and just as it reaches the top of it's stroke, the intake on #6 starts to go down, you stop there and now #1 is at TDC. I was doing this but watching the intake on #1.

Wasn't totally wrong...just not watching the right rockers moving up/down.
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Old Nov 20, 2017 | 05:08 AM
  #4837  
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by thrashingcows
Well it was reading a description of the companion method...again...and realized I may have been doing it wrong. So then went to see if I could find some vids. After watching and listening to a few of them I realized what I had been doing wrong.

To set the valves at TDC on #1 I should have been watching the exhaust on #6 go down and then back up, and just as it reaches the top of it's stroke, the intake on #6 starts to go down, you stop there and now #1 is at TDC. I was doing this but watching the intake on #1.

Wasn't totally wrong...just not watching the right rockers moving up/down.
Linky to the video that shows you the right way?
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Old Nov 20, 2017 | 08:55 AM
  #4838  
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Originally Posted by thrashingcows
Well it was reading a description of the companion method...again...and realized I may have been doing it wrong. So then went to see if I could find some vids. After watching and listening to a few of them I realized what I had been doing wrong.

To set the valves at TDC on #1 I should have been watching the exhaust on #6 go down and then back up, and just as it reaches the top of it's stroke, the intake on #6 starts to go down, you stop there and now #1 is at TDC. I was doing this but watching the intake on #1.

Wasn't totally wrong...just not watching the right rockers moving up/down.
Ha! I did the same thing, almost, but what I did somewhat differently than yours, was watch #6 exhaust go down, then back up, and when #6 exhaust came to a stop, that's when I stopped! I didn't keep barring the engine till the intake started to head down.

Two weeks after, I ended up re doing them correctly, after I got clarification on the correct way by advice given here by Alex. I knew something was up, cause my truck made additional noise that hadn't been there before.

Hey, TC, give yourself a break- adjusting valves are so far apart in mileage intervals, and it's not something we do everyday, lol.
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Old Nov 20, 2017 | 10:56 AM
  #4839  
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From: Riverside, CA
Don’t feel bad, it happens to all of us. I come from the world of 200+hp air-cooled VWs, where valve adjustments are a once per month deal. I was off too (post 4813 in this thread). I watched the same video as you guys. From now on, I will do the valve adjustment, then spin the motor over and double check each one.
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Old Nov 20, 2017 | 11:35 AM
  #4840  
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Does anyone have a link/advice to a good write up of tabbing the KDP in these trucks? The one in the sticky leads to a dead link when I tried it. A good video would be cool too if one is available. My search (quick search) didn't lead to any good write ups of vids of how to best do this. My biggest question is whether I should pull the core support and rad/intercooler etc off so I can access the timing cover directly, or is it easier to do it with all that in place and just pulling the serpentine drive set up off? Thanks in advance.
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Old Nov 20, 2017 | 12:26 PM
  #4841  
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From: vermont
Originally Posted by Shelby/Dakota
Does anyone have a link/advice to a good write up of tabbing the KDP in these trucks? The one in the sticky leads to a dead link when I tried it. A good video would be cool too if one is available. My search (quick search) didn't lead to any good write ups of vids of how to best do this. My biggest question is whether I should pull the core support and rad/intercooler etc off so I can access the timing cover directly, or is it easier to do it with all that in place and just pulling the serpentine drive set up off? Thanks in advance.
I do them on my engines before I install them in my projects and I would think having a little extra room will make the job better.
I would at least plan on pulling the radiator, fan shroud, clutch fan / hub, harmonic balancer and the serpentine. belt.
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Old Nov 20, 2017 | 01:00 PM
  #4842  
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From: Phoenix AZ
Originally Posted by Shelby/Dakota
Does anyone have a link/advice to a good write up of tabbing the KDP in these trucks? The one in the sticky leads to a dead link when I tried it. A good video would be cool too if one is available. My search (quick search) didn't lead to any good write ups of vids of how to best do this. My biggest question is whether I should pull the core support and rad/intercooler etc off so I can access the timing cover directly, or is it easier to do it with all that in place and just pulling the serpentine drive set up off? Thanks in advance.
There is a lot of help here to get you through the job. Take some pics and write a little description and maybe we can replace the dead link in the sticky. I think that this is a pretty important subject. Oliver has given some good advice, he knows a lot about these trucks. I would plan on a front seal replacement and don't forget the cap bolts. I took them out, put on thread lock and retorqued them.
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Old Nov 20, 2017 | 02:12 PM
  #4843  
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From: Prince George, BC
You can do a KDP fairly easily with just the shroud, belt, fan, fan hub removed, but if you want a bit of extra room then pull the rad. But as mentioned make sure to address the case bolts as well, and put a new crank seal in the timing case cover.
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Old Nov 20, 2017 | 02:16 PM
  #4844  
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From: Prince George, BC
Originally Posted by NJTman
Linky to the video that shows you the right way?
I watched a bunch of vids....but this one had the best information. No visuals, but great theory and description.

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Old Nov 20, 2017 | 03:37 PM
  #4845  
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From: Englewood, TN
Question

Originally Posted by NJTman
Linky to the video that shows you the right way?
x2 on the above request. Although the Factory Service Manual is completely silent on the subject, the Owner's Manual calls for a valve lash clearance adjustment every 24,000 miles (pp. 102 and 118). I'm confident I could do this maintenance item myself with clear instructions...

TIA.
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