serious

Hi all, i have a couple of question on adjusting the valves. It seems like there is some guess work in doing it.
1. How tight is "There should be some drag on the feeler gauge"? When i try to adjust the drag for some or a little drag it seems that it is either really tight or really loose and there's not much room in between.

2. Would it be better to set them a litte tight or a little loose? Would the cummins special tool that sets 6 inch pounds on the adjuster take the guess work out?

3. When the timing pin is seated, is this the only place it can do so at #1 compression stroke or are there other places that it will seat? ( another workds is there only 1 hole that it can go into ?)

Thanks
Brent

AlK

I think if you take your time and with a little practice you will be able to get the drag just right. Try to get the same amount of drag on the gauge for each valve before you tighten them down. Then at the same time as you tighten down the nut keep pressure (anti-clock wise) on the threaded rod with the screw driver.

Yes, there is only one (1) hole for the timing pin.

frostie

OK, I wont try and confuse you. Go by the book as far as pin timing goes.
If the book says to set it with a .010 feeler gauge. Than put the .010 gauge in. if it goes in easy, than try a .011 gauge. If it goes in easy then you are to loose. If it goes in tight than it is really close.
Before you start adjusting, If the book says .010 than see where its at. Is it at .008 or .013
buy a good set of feeler gauges with all sizes, that way you can see just how far off it really is.
Good luck, its not too hard

serious

Yeah, this is the first time i've done it, so my hand isn't very well honed yet. Good advice on the turning the adjuster and never even thought of the smaller/larger feeler gauge idea.
I do have a decent set of guages, so i'll give that a try.
Thanks.
Brent

wannadiesel

1. If you can pull it out without having to wiggle it, it's "some drag". If it falls out by itself it's too loose.

2. Many of us run 0.009 and 0.018 for a little more lift and duration on the cam. Maybe the Cummins tool would make it easier, but it ain't rocket science. Refer back to my answer to #1.

3. Do yourself a favor and paint a stripe on the top of the damper so you don't have to mess with the timing pin next time. Next time, just get the mark straight up and you know you are close enough to TDC to do the work. Just pull #1 cover and you will know if you should start with #1 or #6.

bgilbert

IMO, the easiest way by far to adjust the valves and find TDC #1 is by watching the valves. Called the companion cylinder method IIRC. Watch for cylinder #6's intake valve to be going down, then on its way up, when it reaches the top, #6 exhaust valve will start to move down. Stop, you are at TDC #1. Adjust 1 I,E, 2 I, 3 E, 4 I, 5 E. Turn the engine over and watch #1 cylinder's valves for overlap (same as above). Adjust 6 I,E, 5 I, 4 E, 3 I, 2 E.

edwinsmith

That's the method I use and it works fine except I use the alternator nut and turn the engine backwards since the belt won't let it turn forward.

Edwin

bgilbert

Edwin, I use the alternator nut as well. Why spend $35 on a barring tool when you can use the alternator.