Someone clear this up for me... when using the "Overlap method" .. do I stop turning the engine over when the "opposing rocker arm" STARTS to OPEN the valve.. OR when the two rocker arms are even with each other in the OPEN position...I've always done it the 2nd way described.. AND.. is "a little tight" better than "a little loose"... Thanks..1st gen 12 valve

 

Second way.

I'd rather have 'em tight than loose.

 

I'm going to get a gasket set and do this soon. Anything special tool wise? Is it just a lock nut and 12 point?


Den

 

Heck, it's a flat blade screwdriver and and a box end wrench. If you've got even basic tools you can do this job.

 

Thanks, I found the FAQ over here

Just wanted to make sure I didn't need any funky torq socket or something crazy like that.

Den

 

I would think that having the valves a little loose would allow for more expansion before the valve is held open which would cause it to burn. Aren't the stock specs .010 for the intake and .020 for the exhaust?

doesn't the natural wear cause the valve lash to become smaller as the valve wears into the head? Or are CTD's different?

Edwin

 

I am not an expert but just about anything I have ever dealt with gets more loose with wear. As far as a new gasket set, you shouldn't need new ones unless you break one and you gotta get pretty rough to do that. They are in the neighborhood of $5.00 each.I just did my valves a few days ago and they were all about .002 to .003 wide.

 

Valvetrain wear causes the lash to get wider, valve recession causes lash to tighten. Every truck I've adjusted has been all over, some valves loose, some valves tight, and usually a couple that were OK.

 

........I recently tackled the valve adjustment. Wannadiesel is right when he says it's pretty basic. I went a little tighter on my clearance as per instructions recieved from Piers (P.D.R.).
.9 Intake.......18 exhaust. I bought a new gasket set as well as my old ones were mucho crusty. Killed an oil leak, gained a hair better mileage and cured an annoying tick all in one job!! . Here is the link that I found the most helpful http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/valve_adj/12_valve.html hope this helps!!



Good luck and Happy '05,
Mad Mikey.

 

Maybe i'll tackle it tomorrow. Supposed to be upper 70's
<ducking and running>

 

Hey, it was mid 60's here today - I killed a KDP while wearing a t-shirt.

 

Just finished mine. Inside of the motor was nice and clean Had been wondering about that.
1 2 3

Before:
6 E 23 - I 16
5 E 25 - I 20
4 E 26 - I 17
3 E 26 - I 20
2 E 26 - I 15
1 E 26 - I 14

Set them to E 19 - I 9

Cleaned motor off and now I have no OD. Something must be wet. Searched around and found nothing soaking wet. I'll let her dry out I guess..and go from there.

Den

 

Sounds like you got the TPS wet. Those things can be a nightmare, I'm glad I have a 5 speed.

Diesel oils are amazing, aren't they? The oil is always black as can be, but the engine is perfectly clean inside. I've never seen one sludged up like a gasser.

 

Just took it out for about an 8 mile ride. Still no OD.
Tomorrow i'll take it to work and take the air hose to all the connectors and see what happens. Not worried about it...just annoyed

Even the bottom of the valve covers were spotless. Much better cooling and less heat in the valve area I guess.

Den

 

Yeah, I would think the TPS might have gotten wet. You may also check your Crank Sensor plug (top of motor beyond TPS) to see if that is plugged in correctly. Check your middle wire on the TPS to see if it is getting any volts.