Thanks. Its a repaint about 11 years back. The paint codes match the colors, so I'm guessing yes.

Google images 1992 dodge w250, and a few pop up like mine.

 

Looking at pictures of it and trying not to swear. Battling a gummed up injection pump from the vegetable oil the PO ran in it. Truck runs fine until it gets up to operating temperature. After that it starts dying when I stop, especially in reverse. When it doesn’t die when I stop in drive it just hogs way down. Then I put it in neutral or park and it isles just fine. Put it back in gear and it bogs way down. It’s my daily driver so I’ve been having to improvise lately. Going to go drive it on back roads today and see if I can’t get that gunk to clean out. Had tank cleaned and got desperate and had a shop do a tune up on it as I ran out of time. Still dies once up to operating temperature. Crossing my fingers that it cleans out as I don’t have the $1000 for a rebuilt one. They sure know what they want for the rebuilt ones.

 

What is your idle speed set at? But to me it sounds more like a problem with the transmission then the motor.

 

I agree. I started having similar issues with mine. When I swapped in the 5 speed, the issues went away. One thing I would check, would be the line with the check valve up at the front tranny cooler. Make sure the check valve isn’t stuck open or closed. Also, check band adjustments, line pressure, and give the fluid a look and smell test.

 

Looking good! I had some 14/4 wire that we used on home audio left over in the garage. I pulled it though the dome light hole and wired mine to a toggle switch. I left a little extra and there’s spare wires in case I decide to wire something else from the dash to the rear window area in the future (strobe lights maybe). If I get a chance, I’ll put my clamp meter on my light and check amp draw. How many LEDs are in your light?

 

The truck is a 47rh swap and has new fluid and seals in it. It was originally a Getrag 5 speed, but the PO swapped the 47rh into it. Transmission has about 35k miles on it. Truck doesn’t have a tps, but still shifts somehow. I think it’s just off of pressure and there is an overdrive switch and a torque converter switch as well. Both O.D. and T.C. are turned off and then engage noticeably when I flip the switches while accelerating. Not sure what the idle is at as there is no tachometer in these trucks for some dumb reason unknown to me, but the shop I just had it at tuned the pump as well to economy settings. The mechanic I took it to has been working on these first gens since they came out and said he thought the idle seemed about right. He said the gunk might work it’s way out and it would get better. Driving it today that seems to be true, but it still bogs down while in gear once up to operating temperature. As soon as I put it in neutral or park the idle goes back to normal. When the truck is first headed out and not quite warmed up yet it isn’t as noticeable when it bogs down, but still does a little which seems normal for an automatic. When I cleaned my tank and flushed fuel lines the stuff shown in the attached picture was in the tank and thus circulating through the injection pump. So that shows what I’ve been battling getting cleaned out. Mechanic gave me the option to either drive it and hope it cleans out or pay $1000 for a rebuilt pump. I’ve opted to drive it and it’s gotten better. Still bogs down, but hasn’t died on me in several hours driving today back and forth on dirt roads. Cooler is a under bed cooler with a fan and there is none up front. Thanks again for any input I’ve gotten and probably will continue to.

 

27. Thanks for doing that. It will give me some insight to how these work.

Will home audio wire (14/4) be okay in a hot truck ? Not sure how automotive wire compares to home electrical wire, but I though it had to do with it's coating's resistance to heat exposure. Might want to see what the rating is on that wire, vs how hot it gets in a roof of a truck in 100* summer heat. Don't want to see that beauty of yours be on the nightly news, cooking to the ground.

Some are high intensity, others are flood. It's supposed to be what a 270 watt light would possess, but ultimately, it's LED's and a lot less draw.

I'm going to install a relay system, as Jim Lane said to do, this way, it's pure, direct power from the battery / fuse panel under the hood, and I don't have to be concerned over the feed wire being too thin, and under powered.

Gotta love that Jim Lane guy, although I'm not sure he's not being blown out of his home or not by those fires, you know, him living up in the hills with all those celebrities...

 

My auto is a about 800-850 rpm at idle, in gear, which is completely different than when it's in park or neutral. I have a stock trans converter, and that's where my truck performs best.

Before my pump was "rebuilt" or "resealed" as I speak softly not actually knowing what they did other than a seal kit, it used to run like crap when the weather was hot, and the truck was at operating temps. Since it was worked on, now it runs good no matter what. The billing showed no parts other than a reseal kit, and as long as the internal parts aren't broken or worn out, it's been safe to assume a reseal kit will make a wonder of good on an older, seal dried out unit. The 3200 spring is a must, as well, as that, and turning the fuel pin to the deepest setting made it wake up like a different animal.

 

That’s good to know. I thought Cummins spec was 750rpm in drive, but I’ll see where it is at and go from there. Truck runs amazing as soon as it is given any throttle. Only bogs down at idle in gear, but then wakes up instantly with any throttle. How much did the rebuild cost you? I live in Utah so the closest place I know of that does rebuilds on mechanical pumps is Industrial Injection. I just realized I forgot to put the picture of what was taken out of my tank when I emptied it before deciding it needed professional attention, so I’ll now post it. Gotta love this thread!!! Cool to see what others are doing to their first gens and get help with stuff and just kinda have a general discussion too. Anyway, enough of my blabbing.

 

6.7 water pumps fit our first gens? Is there a significant advantage to be had?

 

I live in NJ. Everything here is too expensive, other than heroine or crack cocaine. Pretty sure it was,in the $900 to $1000 range. I will have to look and see what i paid to have it done.

That's amazing what was in your tank. I bet the passages in your injection pump have some funky stuff in them as well.

 

Wow....now that is some crud! If you have any of that in your injection pump then I can understand it acting funny.

 

Yeah. I coundnt believe it when I pulled that out of my tank while emptying it out. The shop that cleaned the tank out had to keep it for a week to soak it before steam cleaning it. Today I woke up and decided my truck needs a name. Not sure what made that come to mind, but I guess just cuz I’ve had it since April.

 

Nice looking truck.

In your last picture...I have to ask is that some sort of "skin" that was on the fuel from the veggie oil, or is that paper towel in the grease puddle from cleaning it out? If that is the "chicken skin" that say sometime develops in Veggie tanks that is gross.

My daughter and I have a lot of fun naming our trucks.

 

That is a nice looking truck. It is completely identical to the way my truck looked when I inherited it from my dad -- right down to the bug shield bolted to the hood!

Mopar calls that color "light champagne." I eventually two-toned mine with another 1993 Mopar color called "emerald green."


I have the same question. I've run a lot of biodiesel and some veggie oil; I hope my tank is not such a mess .


I haven't yet named my truck but, following the old maritime tradition of naming boats after women, I will choose a feminine name when I do name her...