What did you do to your Gen 1 today?
He falls asleep standing up, in mid-conversation!!! Kids these days I swear. I hit the driveway at about 30 MPH and he almost cracked his head on his knee... the day before, I cut into a dirt field and he woke up with me doing donuts. Ever hear a 30 year old wake up from a dead sleep in the middle of a 4th gear donut? We need a new guy at work....
Sounds like Mono

Mononucleosis
Hope you did not take a drink after him,
Since my wheel bearing escapade yesterday, my brakes felt a little goofy. Since my master cylinder is the one that came on my 73 when I bought it 3 years ago (and I have no idea when it was last replaced), I picked one up at Vatozone and swapped it before running service calls..... and of course, mine had backwards ports and the new one didn’t. I found out when I went for a test drive and the rears would lock up and the front had hardly any power. I had bled the brakes the day before, and bled them again after replacing the master. Then had to cut the 2 main hard lines and swap the fittings, re-flare them and re-bleed the system again. I’ve gone through 3 big bottles of DOT-3 in 2 days. This weekend, I’ll be re-making one of the main lines and bleeding it again, once I get some more DOT-3..... maybe I should do the Chevy rear wheel cylinder upgrade while I’m at it, so I don’t have to bleed them for the 27th time....
I need a beer.
I need a beer.Simple
Nothing sticking, except for vehicles and grassy areas.
I hear that parts of the south are being hammered by this storm. Places seen more snow than in several decades, or since recorded history of weather there.
Go figure, eh ?
Safe travels home.
The cargo lamp switch, I'm going to replace with a 3 way
(God, I've always wanted to do a three way)

Anyway, the local guys here are running their back up lamps to the three way switch, so that essentially, if in position one, it works anytime you throw the switch. In position 2 it does nothing, and in position 3, your reverse lights automatically trigger it on, so as you're backing up, you get a very nice clear view going backwards..
Simple, yet awesome....!
Thanks again, Mr. Jim
(have to show my respect for you)
Are you using the clear tube and bottle technique?
Are you sure all fittings are sealed right, and not sucking air?
The replacement master is new or rebuilt?
I assume bench bled? Did you bench bleed and depress plunger full depth, or partial depth when on the bench?
Lots of silly little details that make or brake these systems.
Are you sure all fittings are sealed right, and not sucking air?
The replacement master is new or rebuilt?
I assume bench bled? Did you bench bleed and depress plunger full depth, or partial depth when on the bench?
Lots of silly little details that make or brake these systems.
Hydro boost is in the future when I have time and money. I definitely want to change to stronger axles (2nd Gen D60/D70 under it now) as well as bigger brakes with rear disc, then I can think about doing more to the motor. Whoa before go.
I never have, nor ever will share a glass with another man... I’m not from THAT part of CA
Since my wheel bearing escapade yesterday, my brakes felt a little goofy. Since my master cylinder is the one that came on my 73 when I bought it 3 years ago (and I have no idea when it was last replaced), I picked one up at Vatozone and swapped it before running service calls..... and of course, mine had backwards ports and the new one didn’t. I found out when I went for a test drive and the rears would lock up and the front had hardly any power. I had bled the brakes the day before, and bled them again after replacing the master. Then had to cut the 2 main hard lines and swap the fittings, re-flare them and re-bleed the system again. I’ve gone through 3 big bottles of DOT-3 in 2 days. This weekend, I’ll be re-making one of the main lines and bleeding it again, once I get some more DOT-3..... maybe I should do the Chevy rear wheel cylinder upgrade while I’m at it, so I don’t have to bleed them for the 27th time....
I need a beer.
I need a beer.
It's been snowing for about an hour now.
Nothing sticking, except for vehicles and grassy areas.
I hear that parts of the south are being hammered by this storm. Places seen more snow than in several decades, or since recorded history of weather there.
Go figure, eh ?
Safe travels home.
Nothing sticking, except for vehicles and grassy areas.
I hear that parts of the south are being hammered by this storm. Places seen more snow than in several decades, or since recorded history of weather there.
Go figure, eh ?
Safe travels home.
Yep, Yep, New, Yep, Full depth. I figure the old one was bad because the rear reservoir was over full, and the front was about empty. The fluid must have bypassed internally, is my guess.
Hydro boost is in the future when I have time and money. I definitely want to change to stronger axles (2nd Gen D60/D70 under it now) as well as bigger brakes with rear disc, then I can think about doing more to the motor. Whoa before go.
I never have, nor ever will share a glass with another man... I’m not from THAT part of CA
Hydro boost is in the future when I have time and money. I definitely want to change to stronger axles (2nd Gen D60/D70 under it now) as well as bigger brakes with rear disc, then I can think about doing more to the motor. Whoa before go.
I never have, nor ever will share a glass with another man... I’m not from THAT part of CA

Full depth in bench bleeding stroke "may " be an issue.
I read about 15 years ,ago that mechanics, who bench bled their master cylinders, who depressed the piston full depth, tore the inner seals inside the master by doing so, causing a air / fluid leak between the front and rear port passages. Since then, my own bleeding process has only depressed the piston in 3/4 " to 1 " deep, and all my " master cylinder" issues are gone.
The only way to know is to disassemble the piston from the assembly, and see if its torn or not. Personally, I would look at the master cylinder as being the culprit, as a last ditch effort only. I would look for air entering elsewhere first.
Okay...
Full depth in bench bleeding stroke "may " be an issue.
I read about 15 years ,ago that mechanics, who bench bled their master cylinders, who depressed the piston full depth, tore the inner seals inside the master by doing so, causing a air / fluid leak between the front and rear port passages. Since then, my own bleeding process has only depressed the piston in 3/4 " to 1 " deep, and all my " master cylinder" issues are gone.
The only way to know is to disassemble the piston from the assembly, and see if its torn or not. Personally, I would look at the master cylinder as being the culprit, as a last ditch effort only. I would look for air entering elsewhere first.
Full depth in bench bleeding stroke "may " be an issue.
I read about 15 years ,ago that mechanics, who bench bled their master cylinders, who depressed the piston full depth, tore the inner seals inside the master by doing so, causing a air / fluid leak between the front and rear port passages. Since then, my own bleeding process has only depressed the piston in 3/4 " to 1 " deep, and all my " master cylinder" issues are gone.
The only way to know is to disassemble the piston from the assembly, and see if its torn or not. Personally, I would look at the master cylinder as being the culprit, as a last ditch effort only. I would look for air entering elsewhere first.
Hey NJT ... sharp looking ride ... is your paint factory cause mine is factory and it is opposite yours
Grey stripe on white body with red pin stripe as an accent... I've seen a ton with my paint scheme but none that I can remember like yours
SD
Grey stripe on white body with red pin stripe as an accent... I've seen a ton with my paint scheme but none that I can remember like yours
SD







