. I have the exact mods to the pump as you do, except for the fuel pin. I am using the original Smokey pin from back in the mid 2000's. Hungry Diesel stronger AFC spring, KSB timing spacer, all that. I believe the star wheel adjustments may be close to yours, as well.
I recently got the DAP 5x12 VCO's in, in exchange for those Lucas POD's, and those still haze ever so slightly, but way better than the POD's. My goal was better MPG's, with a touch of power still. One of the things I did that made a big difference in idle haze clean up was to change out my AFC boost line to 1/4", using Parker push to connect DOT fittings. Had to drill out and retap my AFC top to 1/8" NPT. Used (2) 90* elbows and about 6" of heavy wall tubing. The port at the engine already is 1/8" NPT.
Originally my goals for doing this was to ease the removal of the AFC top when tuning the star wheel settings, and be rid of that whole banjo bolt mess and the two gaskets which are easily dropped and lost. The end results were a clean mod, along with more boost air driving down that diaphragm faster. Definitely could feel a difference performance wise. Maybe why any haze I have cleans up real quick upon acceleration

 

That's some good info! And the findings of increasing the size of the boost line is very interesting.

 

Yeah I found that interesting too. I have read of somebody doing that but with no mention of results. makes sense though more air sooner.

 

Moving more air, faster through a bigger tube into the AFC would make the fuel pin move faster, therefore adding more fuel quicker. I am not sure how it would make it haze / smoke less under acceleration.

I was thinking you [Augie] where going to install a "boost fooler" style adjustable elbow so you could RESTRICT the air flow going to the AFC.
I figured with a modified truck it can over power that spring making the fuel pin move down too soon.
The adjustable boost elbow would allow you to tune it where you want without having to open up the AFC housing to adjust the star wheel.

That was the reason I was thinking of doing that boost line mod.

 

this was similar to my thoughts on this "mod". if adding a larger boost line to the AFC somehow makes it move the diaphragm/fuel pin down more efficiently(ie. with less boost) then you'd have more fuel with less boost, causing more smoke. placebo effect is what i'm calling this. i do this to myself every time i do anything to my truck. washed my truck, feels faster, must be less air resistance...

 

With that sexy new paint job you just did, it will have less air resistance. I bet that peeling clear coat was causing all lot of air turbulence.

Nice job on the body work on the old girl.
I have been following along the resto.

 

haha, thanks, but lets just say it takes pictures well

it's just a matte black epoxy primer. i didn't really do any "body work", i just welded all of the trim holes shut, sanded, and primed. it has some dings in just about every panel still, but i wasn't going for a show truck or resto, just a rust free work truck. i'm too poor to make it look pretty, lol.

 

So if you went with an adjustable boost elbow off the engine, 1/4" lines to the AFC housing retapped to 1/4 push lock fitting, would you be able to bottom out the starwheel and just use the adjustable elbow or would you still need to set the starwheel?

 

This is a just a plan and a hypotheses.
I have not tried it.
In my mind it would seem to work great.
You could fool the AFC into thinking it was getting 1/2 the boost, or so since it would be adjustable, that the engine was getting.
Which when I am pushing 30-32 PSI that is about what that AFC is expecting to see, a few pounds under 20 PSI.
The idea of being able to adjust the elbow easily from the outside of the pump is cool.
I think it might be a slick was to limit some of the smoke I get on under power, post gear shifts with my 5 speed trucks.

Since I will not have any of my 1st gens on the road for 4-5 months or so, I will not have an answer for you for a while.

 

If you do a search on AFC boost line, there was a cat that wrecked his oem line and was inquiring on a fix. He came up with parts from Napa, using brass compression fittings with like a 1/4" tube. He was able to find a thread pitch to accept the stick AFC top.
I took that concept a step further, and used Parker DOT brass fittings purchased from a company called Hose And Fittings. 2 ninety degree elbows that swivel, and are 1/4" push to connect to 1/8" NPT. The AFC top is a metric 8mm x 1.25, and a 1/16 NPT fitting would work, but after drilling out a 21/64 hole to tap for an 1/8" NPT, I like the opening size more so than the original what look like a 1/16" hole that it had. Plus, if you look at the hole sizes at all parts of the stock AFC boost line, especially at the banjo fitting, 1/4" looks real big! This whole set up looks so clean you would think that's how it should have come stock. Like I mentioned earlier, it makes access to the AFC easy, with no banjo gaskets to get lost or go bad. Worse yet, accidentally stripping out the banjo bolt from over tightening.o
Oliver, I believe why my system clears out of haze fast and the truck gets and goes, is the heavy Hungry Diesel Spring I have in my AFC. If you ever get a chance to try and compress the thing with your fingers, you would think no way in heck that spring is going to compress. That thing is built so stout, and definitely worth the price tag. The stiffness of that spring, is offset by the additional air boosting down on that diaphragm, and hence the reason why I don't bellow out black soot too bad or over fuel.
If anyone is willing to offer up an email, I would love to send pics, for I am too lame to post pics. Tried following BC847's tutorial but like a nim rod I botched up

 

Also want to add, with the 5x12 DAP injectors, a Smokey Pin, the Starwheel turned 3 turns CW from utmost top, I only hit about 25-27 lbs boost. But, when I need to hit a freeway on ramp, pass, or leave a stop light the minute it turns green, that truck giddy ups. Long time ago I tried an HY35 with the 9cm exhaust housing off of a 2002 dodge, and man, talk about running quick around town. That turbo would spool so fast. Problem was, you lost it on the top end; on a long steep grade on the freeway that thing was gasping for air, hence the reason I upgraded to the 16cm exhaust.
Three years ago when I modified my AFC top and boost line, it felt as if I had that HY back on there. Seat of the pants engineering, I've heard it called.

 

Jakub_Stumbaugh@yahoo

 

Tuneable from the outside would be a big bonus.

 

Mark, along time ago there was this guru called Wannadiesel; I'm sure if you use the search feature you have seen Wannadiesel so quick at responding to someone's questions. Anyway, Wannadiesel used some sort of AFC valet switch in the cab, hooked up electronically to some shut off valve/solenoid attached inline to that boost line, so at any moment air could either be shut off to the AFC for fuel savings, and turned on wide open to belch out the power. It would have been a good addition to the modifications I made to the boost line

 

I fired it up and drove off into the slop storm and salt to take mama to the cardiologist.

The Honda I bought so I could park Grey for the winter failed to proceed, or even crank. Shoveled the snow off'n the first gen, twisted her tail, and away we went. I have to admit it was interesting wiggling the 1 ton into a rice burner parking spot at the clinic.

Now I have to dig into the starting circuit intricacies of a 4th gen Honda Accord.