Noisy Boost Gauge
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Noisy Boost Gauge
Should my boost gauge be noisy? I have a 60psi autometer boost gauge and it is very noisy. The truck is stock except for the K&N filter and 16.2cm exhaust housing. A couple of my firends have gauges and are not noisy. The truck is a 96 2500 Ram.
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
#2
Re:Noisy Boost Gauge
Could be that you used a very stiff tubing for connection. Did you use copper or stainless maybe??? If you use rubber, it will damper the pulsations from the intake of the engine, which is most likely what you are hearing resonating from the gauge. I bet the gauge wont like that either long term..
Zino
Zino
#4
It's my pot and I'll stir it if I want to. If you're not careful, I'll stir your's as well!
Re:Noisy Boost Gauge
Cheap and nasty fix. Near the engine crimp the copper tube almost closed. If the gauge is still noisy crimp it some more. You may find that the pipe has to be crimped almost completely closed before the noise goes away.
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Re:Noisy Boost Gauge
FWIW -
When I installed my fuel pressure gauge (mechanical) the hose I used was covered with braided stainless steel and quite stiff. The hose seemed to carry a vibration (you could feel it by holding the braided steel covering) from the engine into the cab and you could hear it. I started out by wrapping the braided steel line with rubber hose and tying it down. Finally adding a short piece of rubber hose between the schrader valve and the braided hose cut down on vibration transmitted and the noise in the cab.
It would not suprise me if your copper tubbing was carrying a vibration into your cab which could be causing a good part of the noise you are hearing.
When I installed my fuel pressure gauge (mechanical) the hose I used was covered with braided stainless steel and quite stiff. The hose seemed to carry a vibration (you could feel it by holding the braided steel covering) from the engine into the cab and you could hear it. I started out by wrapping the braided steel line with rubber hose and tying it down. Finally adding a short piece of rubber hose between the schrader valve and the braided hose cut down on vibration transmitted and the noise in the cab.
It would not suprise me if your copper tubbing was carrying a vibration into your cab which could be causing a good part of the noise you are hearing.
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Re:Noisy Boost Gauge
Mine does the same thing, espically when under hard acceleration. Gets louder as the boost increases..Has a plastic line..I'm guessing it is vibrating against other wires in the guage pod. The guage doesn't fluctuate or bounce, and its been doing it for a few months. Its a buzzing sound, correct?
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#9
It's my pot and I'll stir it if I want to. If you're not careful, I'll stir your's as well!
Re:Noisy Boost Gauge
A metal pipe could transmit noise into the cab. Two solutions to this problem.
1) Install a short piece of rubber hose to isolate the engine from the cab.
2) Make a coil in the pipe (near the engine) of at least two turns. Diameter of the coil not that important, but suggest 2"-3" dia.
Yes Jamie, crushing the hose will restrict the flow. It is called an orifice. Crushing the pipe is a very crude way of making an oriface. Restricting the flow will not cause an erroneous reading. At the most with a really tiny orifice it wiil cause a sluggish reading. By reducing the full flow of the medium (this works for fuel pressure as well) you in simple language, restrict the pulses that can reach the gauge. Some guys install a needle valve before the fuel pressure gauge. This is just an adjustable orifice.
Hope this helps to explain things.
1) Install a short piece of rubber hose to isolate the engine from the cab.
2) Make a coil in the pipe (near the engine) of at least two turns. Diameter of the coil not that important, but suggest 2"-3" dia.
Yes Jamie, crushing the hose will restrict the flow. It is called an orifice. Crushing the pipe is a very crude way of making an oriface. Restricting the flow will not cause an erroneous reading. At the most with a really tiny orifice it wiil cause a sluggish reading. By reducing the full flow of the medium (this works for fuel pressure as well) you in simple language, restrict the pulses that can reach the gauge. Some guys install a needle valve before the fuel pressure gauge. This is just an adjustable orifice.
Hope this helps to explain things.
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