Found this description on the net looking for a solution...it's my problem to a tee:

"I've got an intermittent problem with the power to the window switch. The windows stopped working, and after I got the switch panel out and wiggled the wires, it came to life. Figuring it was just a loose plug, I unplugged and re-plugged both connectors and all seemed well. Last night, the windows died again. As soon as I popped the panel out of the door, it lit up and was working. I tugged, pulled, pushed, twisted and shook the connectors and the individual wires, but couldn't reproduce the fault."

Anyone have this issue and solve it?

 

is it on all windows? could be broken wires that run thru the door jam. very common problem. or bad master switch. Id pull rubber boot off wires in door jam to see how many are broke. this is my 3rd truck with window problems from broken wires

 

It's power to the module that's the issue (or ground). I know this because the lighting of the switches comes and goes if I simply shift the bezel forward (the tabs are worn from me removing the unit to look for the problem).

So in other words, when I find that all the switches aren't working, I simply push the bezel slightly forward and it comes on. I doubt the issue is way down in the door jam as the movement to get the module to work is a only a millimeter or two.

 

How do the contacts of the plug look? If they are oxidized or corroded, then you might use some contact cleaner on the leads of each side of the plug. They can be further cleaned with a piece of eraser - if it will fit.

Contact cleaner has saved my skin before with plenty of small connections and terminals. It even works to fix those key fobs that mysteriously quit working.

If that solves your problem, and you want to get fancy with it; you can apply a hair of dielectric grease to the connector to keep it from happening again.

 

The drivers side window switch contacts are probably warn out. Seems like main power runs through it. Mine is worn out so the front passenger window is intermittent. Sometimes the passenger switch lights up sometimes no. But if I push down on the drivers side window switch the passenger window switch works fine.

 

LMC Truck has the complete window switch unit for 94 thru 12 Dodge trucks

 

I've actually replace the entire switch already. Still same issue.

 

This drove my wife nuts! Master switch would open and close it. I pulled it out, turn it "upside down" pried open sides and dowsed it with elec contact cleaner, flicked it back and forth dozens of times and put back in and worked fine. How long who knows??? Rock auto has Dorman replacements for < $20 including shipping. No fancy tool needed, panel just in with snap-in clips.

 

Edmonton,

I had the same symptoms and my issue was that the female contact in the harness was too wide, so the male contact in the switch would intermittently loose it's "contact". I simply squished the female contact (in the harness) with some needle nose pliers and it worked. It comes loose on occasion.

Initially, I tried a new switch and it didn't fix the problem (because the issue was due to the female contacts in the wiring harness). I traced all the wires and check the motors and everything was good to go - so I was at a loss.

Then I simply tried pinching the appropriate pin the harness in and it worked.

I think getting a new harness would be a better long term solution but simply pinching them together will at least get the windows up.

If that doesn't work let me know and I'll send you the wiring diagrams so you check the continuity of the wires between the TIPM and the switch.

 

I've got a similar problem going on my passenger side switch. When my wife wants her window down, ( p side), I have to do it from my switch on the driver side. When she's ready to roll it up, she can do it with her switch? Bad connection you think? And how hard is it to pull that switch housing? Will I break any plastic clips?

 

Kerry,

My back left window is currently stuck as of yesterday - I traced the problem to the power wire running from the master switch to the switch in the door - parts in the mail. The wire was split where the door opens and closes (there's a black cylindrical boot that protects the wires).

Since yours in only stuck in one direction, I'd say that there's a short only in the Down Circuit.

You should be able to test this by using a multimeter (or Ohm meter) to check the resistance between Ground and the Window Passenger (Down) Circuit in the motor connector, which is in the door under the switch - its not hard to get off - just use a flat head screw driver and push the little tabs in one at a time, then pull it up and off.

The resistance you measure should be above 10,000 Ohms. If there's a short it would be "near" zero, or very low. Here's the wiring diagram (and wiring diagram How-To). If you can't find the wire write back.

 

Thanks Heavy, I'll take a look at it when I get home. Hopefully that will do it.

 

Alternatively, you can see if the switch is bad by trying a different switch from another passenger door. Maybe that switch is failed in the down direction (I don't think it's likely but it won't hurt to check).

 

My passenger window had the same problem. Looked around on here and found this.

Though it's not the drivers side, the single passenger switch is the same. I pulled the panel, removed the switch, popped the cap off and cleaned the contacts. I found that my dog (who loves to ride in the window) had deposited one of his hairs inside the switch which, in turn, caused high resistance across the contacts. So when I put it back together I added a piece of felt under the cap to keep the dog hairs, biscuit crumbs, and other foreign bodies out.

I couldn't see a means of getting to the bottom of the circuit board to repair solder joints should it be necessary. The case of the switch is molded to the contacts for the connector.

I saved 70 bucks today