Marty86

I have been rightly so a little afraid of buying a 24v because of the possiblity of the VP44 going bad. I know that many of you can say so many amount of hundred thousand miles on the original, but also some of you can tell me the exact day that you knew yours was dead.

So, for my own security I want to know how hard it would be if once I bought a 24v, for me to replace it myself? From the little research I've done, buying a "hot rod" Vp44, and changing the line to 1/2" tubing, seems to be the way to make sure you don't have to replace it again. Now, what would be the price to do that? How hard is it?

I would consider myself a intermediate mechanic, having been through 2 years of automotive school, doing everything from brakes, to rebuilding engines and auto transmissions, as well as manual trannies, transfer cases and rear ends. So I imagine I could do it, but how difficult is it? Am I going to take a week to do it, or a weekend? A afternoon? Would I need a friend?

Although I don't even have the truck yet, this is something I want to be well up on the up-and-up to know whats going on, before I buy a disaster.

Sunir

hrvp44 is from industrial injection I think, but I don't know if it's a fail safe...now as for the big lines...with the FASS you get 3/8 lines with the kit. Now when you say 1/2" tubing do you mean from the LP to the VP?

Southern Pride

you can do the install i a day or less depending on if you run into any problems or how many beers get consumed. but its pretty straight forward. for me, the most "difficult" part was pressing the pump shaft off. i only had a cheap steering wheel puller, it took, awhile, and some wd40, but it finally got it off. and i mucked up the air horn gasket and had to get one at a dodge *********** down the road, but it was only like 6 dollars and some change.

stuckey200224

changing a vp44 is easy vert easy the pump shaft is keyed it will only go on 1 way literaly all you have to do is remove the lines and other stuffin the way pull the gear off un bolt the pump put the new one on and your off.

Marty86

This makes me feel better about the whole thing. I was reading that its better to get the SO pump, and then just change the lines. It seems to be cheaper, and better that way. I won't be doing in large amount of towing, like horse trailers. Maybe the biggest I'll pull is a RV Trailer. But that won't be very often, if at all.

Alright cool. Unless its been changed recently, after buying a 24v, is it safe to say to replace the vp44 as a maintainance item, would be a good idea?

lotero

changing it as preventative maintenance thing is not really cost effective, the one i just bought was just over 1000 bucks and took me about 3 hours to do with some help. if you can change drum brakes then you can do a pump in my opinion. get a gear puller or borrow one, im sure someone (myself included) will lend you one, you pay the shipping type of thing. also when a pump is going out you will know with a pretty good amount of time to be prepared, not always but most of the time. i dont regret for a second doing the vulcan 1/2 in line pump relocation kit using a holley blue, i get 16 psi and a very free flowing system. also do a fuel pressure gauge too, they can be found at vulcan as well.

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/servlet/StoreFront

RowJ

I would not say it's that easy. Alldata says it's a 4 hr job, for a professional! But you can do it.

Do a search. 'Diesel Dan' from FASS, made a VP-44 remove & install video about a month ago!

RJ

Southern Pride

yeah, i watched that video on line, and it gave me a good mental picture of how everything goes off, and reinstalls.

RowJ

Here you go..... decide for yourself how big a job you think it is.
See post #16; and #31..& #38
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=152404

RJ

blackdiesel

I did my last one in under 2 hours...

blizz

A few tips ive learned is to get yourself a small mirror to look at the key { the dot on the gear goes up } and you don't have to take all the injector lines off, take the front set off and loosen all but the very back one #6 its a" *****" when you get ready to pull the pump push the lines over to the block to clear. I put on a new IP Tuesday so its still fresh in my mind .