Today I swapped in the 28si after a couple months of listening to the autozone alternator chew on my belt. I used a bracket plans from another site search "d89 alternator" on Google and got it to fit in a position to run the factory belt. Took 4 hrs including some grinding of spacers and taking a little off the thermostat.

Upgraded to welding #2 cable for positive and ground.

 

Did my first distance tow with the truck. Pulled my 7500# travel trailer 180ish miles each way. Must say that I am thoroughly impressed with how the truck pulled with no power mods. It was a bit of a dog on the steep climbs requiring me to gear down to 3rd and go 35mph. Though on the flats it had no issue holding the 65-70mph speed limits. Truck felt firm with the weight except when the wind came cross and caught the trailer causing a minor sway but not terrifying. Hell the truck didn't even notice when the trailer blew a tire, no jolts or other unexpected input. It gladly pulled the trailer to the side of the highway, Changing a tire with semis flying by at 70 sucks by the way. Going to do a hydroboost over the winter as the brakes, while not sketchy feeling, did leave a bit to be desired. Going to research an exhaust brake as well to save my brakes on the down hills.

 

The news is talking maybe snow this weekend. Looks like it is going to be an early cold winter here. Been driving the truck to get a baseline for further pump tuning after the top end got rebuilt. I will say with 5x12 injectors, new cam and valve springs, my cruising RPM has dropped about 100-150 RPM. I am hoping that translates to better MPG.

I have my OEM injectors sitting on my bench because DieselTuff doesnt require cores, and I can't really think of a use for them other than sell them. How or where do you all sell your old core injectors?

 

If there's nothing wrong with your injectors, you might want to wrap them up and save them. Some find solace in knowing they can easily return back to stock should the desire arise.

 

Good to know. My brother just bought an RV about the same size. Originally to stay in while renovating his house but now he wants me to tow it down to the forgotten coast this spring break. I'm not worried about the towing. it's the stopping. I'd rather have hydraboost and an exhaust brake too... Either way, I don't relish the thought of a 12 hour drive down I-75 like that...

 

Yeah with a good brake controller/trailer brakes it wasn't sketchy, just definitely left a little to be desired. The truck rode surprisingly smooth with the weight on the rear end. I don't think I'd want to go 12 hours non stop but it might not be as bad as you think.

 

Spent 7 hours yesterday scraping the,underside and frame. Only did from the doors to rear bumper. Sprayed phosphoric acid last night.

Hopefully get it coated today.

Beware:

I sprayed white grease and a couple other greases on the cab underside. Within 1 year, the solvents in the grease physically ate the factory paint off, leaving bare metal, which now are rusting badly.

Don't use spray grease on any painted surfaces, as it will remove any protection you previously had.

 

Isn't the white part of white grease some kind of Lithium compound? I wonder if there was some sort of solvent there to keep the Lithium suspended.

I wouldn't think there would be anything in regular grease besides hard-oil.

Edwin

 

I have been spraying down my trucks with a mix of oil and/or diesel fuel for 20 years and never had issues with it removing paint.
I have been using bar and chain oil for chain saws thinned down with a little diesel fuel for several years, but before I have used engine oil as well.

I don't use white lithium grease.

I will be spraying down the winter trucks here shortly as we had another hard frost last night. It is the only way to fight the rust, that seems to work well for me, other than parking your rig for the winter.

 

We were down to -8*C last night and was thinking about your oil/diesel mix last night Oli....how do you apply it, a pump pressure sprayer?

 

I use a Shultz style gun and my air compressor turned down to 30/40 PSI.
I saw that Fluid Film had a gun and jug set up for sale through my local Napa last year for pretty cheap too. $40 or so IIRC.

 

Took the brick out for a ride today, after rinsing all the acid off of the frame that I used to slow down the rust patches on the frame and body. Saw an old 57 4 door chevy and followed the old pig down the road for a while. The driver was doing 65mph in that thing, and it didn't look pretty him moving that steering wheel around as much as he did. I guess he's comfortable driving that thing about, but I'm pretty sure I'd fix the steering before I did so myself.

Started coating the frame now that it was all rust treated and dried from the trip today. Really coated it up good, so hopefully it's on there a while before the salt gets it's way again. This, in theory, should last a couple years or so. I've yet to do the rest of the frame, as I only got from the bumper to the front spring hanger on the rear axle. I'll work on it again, tomorrow.








trip today

Took the Brick out for a ride today

57 chevy 4 door still on the road

After acid Etching

After rustoleum applied

 

It's a labor of love... But I'm not sure I have the patience to scrape for 7 hours!

I used to spray down my M880 with used motor oil. Haven't done that for a while though.

I think I'll look for that Fluid Film jug & gun at NAPA.

Supposed to be around 95*F tomorrow, I think I have a few more days till they start brining the roads.

 

A labor of love ? Well, then I'm married to my dodge, as it's extremely painful lying down on the rocks, and getting splattered with the occasional drop of paint.

Yeah.... married..

About 3/4 way through painting the frame and cab underbody. another 6 hours today.

ooh, la, la la fun...

 

Did you use "Rust Reformer"?

Edwin