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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
I replaced mine with the double nut, but mine doesn't have the gear looking part, One nut has a pin built into it and prevents the outer from coming loose...Mark
Tomorrow the paint shoukd be dry, so I can take,it for a spin.Just bled the brakes, adjusted the shoes, adjusted the e brake, and wrapped it up.I started the truck, put it in drive, and let it run for 20 minutes or so. Reverse for 10, and drive for 10. Even though I prelubed the bearings before I installed them, I never drive the truck until I'm sure the hubs are,full of gear oil, and not leaking.
Its super easy to adjust the brake shoes with no axle in there, and even easier to paint when it's in reverse, spinning. Paint just finds its own way on
I like to jack up one side of the rear and let the gear oil flow into the hub for about 10-15, then lower back down and allow the fluid to equalize, then jack up the other side and repeat. Once both sides are full of gear oil I double check my diff fluid level.
I like to jack up one side of the rear and let the gear oil flow into the hub for about 10-15, then lower back down and allow the fluid to equalize, then jack up the other side and repeat. Once both sides are full of gear oil I double check my diff fluid level.
Yup. I do that as well, as I'm. Putting the wheels back on.
Way better than following the FSM and packing the bearings with grease.
Re-torqued my rear lugnuts and ubolts. Adjusted the brakes and bumped the timing 1/8th inch.
How far can/should you move the timing pump? Most folk talk about the 1/8th in bump, and some out there talk about going all the way to the head. What are the pros and cons of going beyond the 1/8th in point? I have a new Hamilton 178/208 cam so I am in unfamiliar territory.
Thanks,
NJT, that looks like the job I did just before my engine took a @#$%. Good work, the Dana 60 spindle nuts are THE way to go in my opinion.
Took the truck for a ride. Not sure what happened, but the brake and abs lights came on while road testing it. Got it back home (brakes feel normal) and tightened the lines and bleeders, making sure air wasn't being sucked into the fittings. These copper nickel lines are quite soft.. Re-bled the wheel cylinders and modulator, and disconnected the battery to see if the abs module was clear ( don't think it's like a real computer, but I figured it wouldn't hurt)
Will re- road test it tomorrow. Spent the day with the,wife and kids.
Today I wrote a check. I had the front steering and suspension gone through. It needed upper ball joints, idler arm, tie rod ends, center link, etc. It was $1400. I said holy cow and then I paid the man. I would say that it is almost a sporty driver now in comparison though. Much quieter over bumps too.
I drove the beast for the first time since my surgery in July. My legs just didn't feel right on the pedals at first. After a while it got better. Truck still runs fine though it's time for the routine maintenance to be done like Oil, filter lube the joints etc... I got to run the A/C also and it still works fine.