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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
Yes you are, yes you did, and I'm sure you'll continue to.
You're bitchy because you're comparing your experiences with a few of your customers with my experiences with the vendors I've purchased from and it bothers you.
Cummins is Run by bean counters, and they're maximizing margin on their products using their brand name recognition as a source for advertising. Cummins has problems just like every other multi billion dollar corporation, Thats allowed this outsourcing, and set up shops in countries with cheap labor markets. Why do you think Cummins complained so vigorously when trump applied the tarrif? They lose money. Period.
Instead of simply pointing out the brass tipped alternative, hwhich I wasn't aware of, you wen on your NJT rant.
I don't know how often you pull your pump (heh, heh) but next time you have it off for resealing or whatever, would it be worth having a shop get the manual shutdown working again?
That brass plunger will obviously be an improvement but the solenoid itself still relies on magic, hopes, and wishes to work properly all the time.
Wouldn't want Mark to make you out,to look like a bad guy, while claiming he's not. There would be two of us on the site, then, eh?
Besides, I'm the one who Mark is so confident knew that all these plungers get ripped up before I went to Cummins attempting to eliminate a problem I thought was caused by poor quality product. He obviously knows more about me, than I do myself cause he said I knew already, and was just putting the blame on the vendor.
Yup... He got me
Pull your head out of your a**. You are the one that turned this into a sh*t show & are now exaggerating things. I simply pointed out you are not right to make a warranty claim & yes, you are not. I pointed you in the direction of a fix for your problem. Yes, it is your problem, not the parts fault.
Your old stock plunger at stock pressures has gone through thousands of heat cycles over the year, causing the rubber to turn harder. That's why it lasted so long on a stock pump, then 9 years on a so called slightly turned up pump. Then you install a new soft plunger at same turned up pressures & expect it to last as many years !! Geeeez.
Why do you think the guy that is selling the brass tipped plunger even says " safe on a turned up pump ". News break....rubber tipped plungers don't last on turned up pumps !!!
It's guys like you that cause vendors to turn their back on supplying a good product to the market or have to raise their price, which then everyone else has to bare the price.....it's because the vendor knows hey know they can't fix stupid.
I won't sell to the VW market guys other than injector nozzles & know other that won't too. There is a reason for this.
There are many markets that get abused.... one of them is clutches. Many guys constantly buy a cheaper hp power clutch for their truck then what they should, as they have more power then what the clutch is rated for or the application they need the holding power for. Some say they only gently drive their truck to church & back on Sunday's only so all will be fine. Down the road they say they don't know why their street clutch is slipping or making noise. They make a claim & when the cutch kit is inspected, it is blue, stress cracked, springs are ready to fall out....generally beaten. With a bit of investigating they are found on youtube, either sled pulling or hooked to another truck & playing tug a war. Believe it or not, it's true & happens. Should Peter at South Bend Clutch eat this as a warranty? I think not.
Guys like you will cause Cummins vendors to turn their backs in time too. Sad but true.
Now I'm done with you.
At least some others will benefit from this thread.
Pull your head out of your a**. You are the one that turned this into a sh*t show & are now exaggerating things. I simply pointed out you are not right to make a warranty claim & yes, you are not. I pointed you in the direction of a fix for your problem. Yes, it is your problem, not the parts fault.
Your old stock plunger at stock pressures has gone through thousands of heat cycles over the year, causing the rubber to turn harder. That's why it lasted so long on a stock pump, then 9 years on a so called slightly turned up pump. Then you install a new soft plunger at same turned up pressures & expect it to last as many years !! Geeeez.
Why do you think the guy that is selling the brass tipped plunger even says " safe on a turned up pump ". News break....rubber tipped plungers don't last on turned up pumps !!!
It's guys like you that cause vendors to turn their back on supplying a good product to the market or have to raise their price, which then everyone else has to bare the price.....it's because the vendor knows hey know they can't fix stupid.
I won't sell to the VW market guys other than injector nozzles & know other that won't too. There is a reason for this.
There are many markets that get abused.... one of them is clutches. Many guys constantly buy a cheaper hp power clutch for their truck then what they should, as they have more power then what the clutch is rated for or the application they need the holding power for. Some say they only gently drive their truck to church & back on Sunday's only so all will be fine. Down the road they say they don't know why their street clutch is slipping or making noise. They make a claim & when the cutch kit is inspected, it is blue, stress cracked, springs are ready to fall out....generally beaten. With a bit of investigating they are found on youtube, either sled pulling or hooked to another truck & playing tug a war. Believe it or not, it's true & happens. Should Peter at South Bend Clutch eat this as a warranty? I think not.
Guys like you will cause Cummins vendors to turn their backs in time too. Sad but true.
Now I'm done with you.
At least some others will benefit from this thread.
Ha ha!
It appears you're so familiar with having your own head up your a$$, you think you know when someone else is. Must be from all the crap you've got shoved in your ears.
You're a riot, sweet pea.
Keep on being angry about other people you've had problems with. You've proven my point, yet again
T, I didn't even mention Cummins in the post. I was speaking about how China operates, specifically that they are capable of building quality things, but the customers don't want quality, they want profit margins, that would be to include Cummins.That said , lets tone it down a bit and let's not forget that politics are not allowed in the technical forums...Mark
T, I didn't even mention Cummins in the post. I was speaking about how China operates, specifically that they are capable of building quality things, but the customers don't want quality, they want profit margins, that would be to include Cummins.That said , lets tone it down a bit and let's not forget that politics are not allowed in the technical forums...Mark
I agree with you, 100% on this post, in all respects.
Hey NJT,, I don't let other folk's work on my trucks ( 1-90 D350,, 1-91.5 D250 ) it's not that I don't trust'm ,,, " I DON'T TRUST'M ",,Vent here all you want to ,, were here for ya'.
whosdunit.
the only thing other people do to my truck is change tires with supervision!!!
the only thing other people do to my truck is change tires with supervision!!!
Especially watch out that they use a torque wrench or at least those colored torque limiter extensions on the lug nuts. I've had lugs snapped and warped rotors because of over-torquing. A friend of mine had a wheel come off while driving because all of the lugs snapped.
The quality of a vendors products is also dependent on their workers and their training/equipment. Chinese wholesalers are especially bad because the manufacturing regulations are lax for the export market. Also they are not above of gaming the QC of American vendors. Even if Cummins does random spot checks, and there is no evidence they go to this expense, a few bad parts are bound to slip through. Personally I believe that if Cummins buys FSS from China they do it for profit or more likely from necessity. I really doubt they do random checks of FSS because of the cost involved.
American vendors are really being squeezed by foreign competition and domestic regulation and labor laws. They have no choice but to buy foreign parts to compete. This does not mean that real quality vendors like Nascar Mark cut corners. His is a small market and he has to keep his customers happy by producing quality products. But large corporations have to satisfy stockholders by making solid profit margins. Customer satisfaction is secondary. I have no problem with buying quality parts from great vendors like Mark. But buying from large corporations is an entirely different proposition.
But large corporations have to satisfy stockholders by making solid profit margins. Customer satisfaction is secondary. I have no problem with buying quality parts from great vendors like Mark. But buying from large corporations is an entirely different proposition.
Edwin
Its all about greed today. Corporations are run by shareholders that elect a board of directors, that appoint a CEO. Individuals no longer own massive corporations and because of this: pride, satisfaction and loyalty to the brand no longer exist. What are the chances of the CEO of Cummins owning a Cummins? Its all about making shareholders happy and increasing dividends.
In my opinion, if a company wants to outsource their products and materials to save a dollar and increase their profit margin at the expense of quality, then I will have no issue taking back parts that have a warranty no matter how much I abuse them. On the other hand, if a local vendor or a privately owned company sells me a quality piece and I abuse it, then that's on me.
I agree with both NJT and Mark on many points, each to their own I guess.
Decided to live vicariously today. Truck was full of fuel, and an extra 5 gallon Jerry can container, along with my trusty 17 mm wrench. Ordered a new fuel pump from Cummins and decided to take the 75 mile round trip in the Dodge....just to see.
Hopped in the truck noted that my fuel pressure was running anywhere between 7 and 10 psi the entire ride up. Little nerve-wracking , but I think the trip gave me some good information.
45 minutes and I was there. Pulled in, shut the truck off went inside, and bought my new fuel pump. Hopped in the truck, and drove home.
About three-quarters of the way, I noticed that the fuel pressure reading was changing. Instead of reading 7 to 10 psi on average, it was now reading 4 to 6 PSI. By the time I'd gotten home on occasion it would read a 2 psi, and hung out in the 4 to 5 psi range. The truck never saw the 8 to 10 psi again.
Based upon this I'm assuming the as the engine is warming up over a period of an hour or so, something is happening internally in the fuel pump , as it's not creating the same pressure that it was on the trip up.
When I looked at the new fuel pump in the store, I noticed that the unit gave immediate pressure sounds , out of the pressure side of the pump when I press the manual priming leaver. My original pump, as it's on the truck, is a Cummins part I purchased about a year-and-a-half ago, and by the readings I saw today, something is amiss.
Big pile up (one car) on the way home.
I'll be swapping out the pumps either late today and finishing up tomorrow. The fuel supply line from pump to head had a bit of surface scale on it, so I cleaned it up, phosphoric acid applied, primed and painted. Will final assembly tomorrow and see what my pressures are then.
At some point I will "upgrade" to the piston lift pump, but it's too close to the snow season, and I'd rather wait until I'm not pressured to keep the vehicle up and running.
Put the new "Brass tipped" FSS in, so we'll see how that works out once I get it running again.
Yesterday, I pulled the rear driveshaft to see if the knuckleheads who did the transmission did anything wrong. Found they only removed the front sector of the shaft, and moved it out of the way, which actually is how I most likely would have done it too, except for the rear U-joint was pretty narly. Seems as though things rust around here pretty good. Got it out, greased the few caps I could get to, and put it all back together, cleaned up and phosphoric acid applied. That will slow it down for a little while.
Look at this U-joint.... YUK.
Still in good working order... just too much orange.
T-man your fuel PSI might have been dropping after driving your truck for a while, because it was starting to suck more air as the tank got less full....
12-15-2018, 08:52 AM
