1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

What did you do to your Gen 1 today?

Old 04-20-2018, 08:34 AM
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Jim,
I get those banjo bolts with the Schrader valve installed for the fuel line from Geno's. I then use a temporary fuel pressure gauge on a hose to test fuel pressure when needed. I installed those bolts on several of my trucks, so that one temp. fuel gauge can be used to test several trucks as needed.

Yes I bet the diesel cleaned the insides up a bit and that is why the oil is staying cleaner looking longer.
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Old 04-20-2018, 09:04 AM
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When ever my granddad use to get a different truck or tractor one of the first things he did was drain the oil and put diesel in the crankcase, fire it up let it run for one or two minuets then let it drain overnite, new filter and oil and it was good to go he said. I remember trying it one time on a old early 60s Chrysler 383 and it must have loosened a chunk of crud and plugged one of the oil galleys cuz it spun a rod bearing shortly after that. I will say that i didn't let it sit overnite like he always did (maybe that allowed the diesel to dissolve any of the larger chunks that got loosened up?)
Old 04-20-2018, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by nonrev
When ever my granddad use to get a different truck or tractor one of the first things he did was drain the oil and put diesel in the crankcase, fire it up let it run for one or two minuets then let it drain overnite, new filter and oil and it was good to go he said. I remember trying it one time on a old early 60s Chrysler 383 and it must have loosened a chunk of crud and plugged one of the oil galleys cuz it spun a rod bearing shortly after that. I will say that i didn't let it sit overnite like he always did (maybe that allowed the diesel to dissolve any of the larger chunks that got loosened up?)
What I do every once in awhile is replace a quart of oil during an oil change with marvel mystery oil and then run it for 15000 miles. BTW, I run 15000 mile mobil one and I get every cent out of that expensive oil...Mark Edit:By thw way, if you want to see really dirty and disgusting oil in a short time after an oil change, check a Mercedes 300 SDL diesel with 400000 miles. It takes about 5 minutes and it looks like you forgot to change it...
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Old 04-20-2018, 01:54 PM
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Saw this 89( or so) on the Garden State Cash Cow. His license plate has the word Mopars. Spelled out. The truck looked almost brand new.
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Old 04-20-2018, 03:35 PM
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Jim the oil in my old 89 motor used to turn black after only a few days as well, but my 93 motor in the crewcab now stays almost perfectly clear until the next oil change. I have been running my Rotella T6 now for almost 10K km's and the oil is starting to turn brown-ish.....but still pretty clean compared to what the old 89 motor used to look like.
Old 04-20-2018, 03:40 PM
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Sounded cool as it went by. Dude and girl were inside. I guess they're legal in PA on the road.
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Old 04-20-2018, 04:07 PM
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JIm:


I got the banjo with the snubber from Gano's. It has a 1/8" female pipe thread. I then got a line kit off someone on Amazon for about $20 or you can roll your own. I got a cheap pressure gauge from Jeggs.

I only use the line and the gauge occasionally and you're welcome to borrow them. Next time you're down this way or I can mail it up there if you PM me your address.

Edwin
Old 04-20-2018, 05:52 PM
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Air leak in fuel line?

LAst night I stopped by O'Reilly's and bought a new fuel tank cap. I figured this would be the easiest way to get a used one to do this test. I gutted the old cap and threaded an air hose quick connect fitting in it.

My question is, how much pressure should I put into the tank? I don't want to blow anything out. I thought about 5 PSI would be sufficient. Would this be OK?

Edwin
Old 04-20-2018, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by edwinsmith
LAst night I stopped by O'Reilly's and bought a new fuel tank cap. I figured this would be the easiest way to get a used one to do this test. I gutted the old cap and threaded an air hose quick connect fitting in it.

My question is, how much pressure should I put into the tank? I don't want to blow anything out. I thought about 5 PSI would be sufficient. Would this be OK?

Edwin
Sounds what I was going to do. 5 to 7 lbs is what the lift pump does, so you can't harm anything using that low of a pressure.

My thoughts were to buy a plumbing plug, and install a connector in it. Fuel cap works just as well.
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Old 04-20-2018, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by NJTman
Sounds what I was going to do. 5 to 7 lbs is what the lift pump does, so you can't harm anything using that low of a pressure.

My thoughts were to buy a plumbing plug, and install a connector in it. Fuel cap works just as well.
The new fuel cap was about $11.00 FYI.

Thanks.

Edwin
Old 04-21-2018, 01:07 AM
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Well after several months of abusing my alternator with rocks, hammers and other blunt force trauma inducing implements it pretty much gave up the ghost today. Was out and about and every time I shut the truck off and got back in and fired it up the alternator would not charge, had to turn on off several times, or whack the alternator with something to get it charging again.....so finally broke down when I got home and swapped in one of my spare alternators. All seems well again.

Pretty sure it was the original Denso alternator from 1993 as well since it does have the chrysler/cummins part number still on it.
Old 04-21-2018, 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by thrashingcows
Well after several months of abusing my alternator with rocks, hammers and other blunt force trauma inducing implements it pretty much gave up the ghost today. Was out and about and every time I shut the truck off and got back in and fired it up the alternator would not charge, had to turn on off several times, or whack the alternator with something to get it charging again.....so finally broke down when I got home and swapped in one of my spare alternators. All seems well again.

Pretty sure it was the original Denso alternator from 1993 as well since it does have the chrysler/cummins part number still on it.
Oh well. TC won't be posing for action shots anymore
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Old 04-21-2018, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by thrashingcows
Probably be up in less then a month they figure....so hoping the frost wall foundation, slab floor and framing and sheeting will all be done by the end of July. That is all I am having the contractor do the rest will be up to me....roofing, siding, doors/windows, electrical, insulating, drywalling etc.

I'm shooting to have the roof done and the wood burning stove installed, all the doors and windows in and maybe the lower 3rd of the siding before winter sets in. The rest I can pick away at over the winter.

Gonna be nice, but I'm already loosing sleep over the costs.....I'm to tight with my money even when I know it's what I need and will only increase the resale value of the property.

But I will for sure post up progress pics.
What type of roof are you installing? Hopefully with the snows you get a metal roof is in your budget.

Funny story happening in my area- my neighbor is building a mansion, literally, on top of a mountain right behind me. His goals were to build a home that was completely fireproof. Just to give you an idea of how big this place is, he went thru 140 yards of concrete, on the footings alone. No slab, just the footings. His exterior walls are 10” thick solid concrete, and all structural supports are of steel I beams and columns. His roof rafters are metal studs, and the only wood used is the roof substrate, which is 3/4” OSB. All doors are being shipped from Europe. He has had architects swarming up to his house to see the construction style of his exterior walls, as it is the only style used here in the USA(it is not only the concrete walls alone, but how it was insulated using a European design of paneling).

Now onto the roof, and this is where the funny part sets in- he wanted a standing seam metal roof put in, and the bids he got were at around $75K. Being a full hip house, with no gable ends whatsoever, I totally understands the labor involved because of my extensive knowledge on metal roof construction.

He watches a YouTube video on a guy installing a standing seam roof on his tool shed, and tells me he’s gonna do it himself cause he figured “it wasnt ROCKET SCIENCE”. My comment back to him was no it isn’t, but yes it is. I started asking him about checking his roof for square using the 3-4-5 method, establishing a control line, and asked him how he is tying in his gutters to the panels(gutters are required per code in my area), how his roof is being installed for expansion/contraction, and all I got was a blank stare. In the end, he did not want any of my advice offerings, and he went off and bought all the panels which ran him $35K. He was only interested in what type of tools were needed.

I know what others do is none of my business, but when I see a chance to offer assistance I do, cause that’s my nature. The 2 big things that worry me, is where he lives there is a lot of wind, and if the roof isn’t installed correctly, per manufacturers design, his roof will uplift and rip right off his house. Secondly, I found out his roof pitch is of a 4:12. Where we live, with chances of light snow every couple of years, it is required per local code to be of 6:12 or greater. If it does snow and because he doesn’t have enough pitch, there’s the weight of the snow load that could be a problem, or worse yet, any moisture trapped inside the standing seam will freeze and slowly start opening the seams up. Over time, that roof will be open to the elements, and for sure fail. I do not know how he managed to get by plan check with the county on a 4:12 pitch.

Hopefully for where you live, TCows, I’m gonna go out on a limb and say the roof pitch in your neck of the woods is minimum 8:12 pitch.

I don’t understand spending $$$$ on a mansion, and half a$$’n the install of a roof due to lack of knowledge and experience. A tool shed done on YouTube is not like what he is attempting to do; his house is more like doing a commercial building.
What gets me is, he just sold an airplane for $300K, so the roof budget can be pulled out of that, be professionally done, and be warranted for life should something fail.

None of my business, I know.....
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Old 04-21-2018, 10:03 AM
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That's funny cuz where I live in NE Washington code states 4:12 and we get quite a bit of snow, not as much as TC but normally at least 4'. the place I own now the shop was already built and it's a 4:12 and I shovel it at least twice a winter.
BTW T-Man where did you get the pic of a much younger TC in shop class?
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Old 04-21-2018, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by nonrev
That's funny ...
BTW T-Man where did you get the pic of a much younger TC in shop class?


Found in in his high school yearbook.


Lol
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