Lol,

You cheated by taking the bed off...




Nice pix, BTW.

 

What happened to the bed? Looks like a nice location for a camper...
Pretty wet here too lately, much mud?

 

@twostep, Just doing 1st gen stuff.

 

Not only did he lose his bed but he also picked up training wheels at the same time!

 

haha, I pulled the bed because I was scared it was going to get into the camper while jack knifing and especially while going up the bank. I've actually been planning to flatbed it ever since I swapped it over to a dually.

KRB, it was a really nice location... but the land owner wanted too much for the lot. Then he made me an offer on the camper that I couldn't turn down. He said "get it off my land and you can have it". Several hundred dollars in tires later I am a 5th wheel camper owner. Fits my budget and family of 6 perfect!

 

Played around with the brick today.

removed the top hat and rotated the fuel pin to it's lowest point. Made the truck come alive....... Adjusted the star wheel down a 1/4 turn, and spun the pin. Now all I need to do is turn the idle back down a bit to make it back to where I like the idle. Lubed the pin up with plumbers silicone grease before I put it back together (skim coat)

During that fun stuff, I noticed that the plastic washer that surrounds the OEM pin was just flopping around in there. Isn't it supposed to be tight, or snug on the pin ? What does it do anyway, as I looked in the sticky, found pictures of it, but nothing really explaining what it's for.

Pretty colored spring, BTW....

Truck runs like a sweet dream. Mucho fastero than it used to be-o. Eventually, I might just put that custom pin that Gillette sent me in there, just to see what it does.

 

It's unbelievable how much the truck comes alive from such a simple mod.

 

Yeah, just looking it the stock pin you wouldn't think it would do much at all.

 

For anyone wondering
That plastic ring is a limiter stop to prevent the pin from dropping down too low during all out whompin full throttle. It prevents the pin from allowing the fuel rod to rise back up the other side of the machined cut. Defueling the pump. It aligns the fuel rod with the deepest part of the pin keeping it where it needs to be for best performance

Adam at Gillett Diesel confirmed this for me.

 

Ya'll are lucky the fuel pins can be removed without removing the throttle assembly to loosen the Allen screw on the side of the afc. Mine isn't that easy I went through the whole process twice the other night when I installed the THD fuel pin..

 

How do you like the THD pin?

 

Easy to see how the Cummins engine can easily last a million miles the way it is over built and detuned.

Crank the fuel screw in about 3 turns and you could permanently damage your facial muscles from an excessive never ending grin.

Just be sure you have at least a pyrometer before you crank up the fuel, unbelievable how fast you can pass 1300* under WOT.

Jim

 

So far, so good. Definatly a bit more aggressive than my slightly ground stock pin . After I get it dialed in and the air leaks out of the fuel system I think I'll really like this pin. I just fixed my pyro so now I can really test it out

 

Finally got around to installing my 351 today. Made a huge difference an spool up. I like it already.

 

Fixed my broken and stripped wheel studs on the drivers side and put 3" brake shoes and new hub seal on both sides.

Man what a pita it is to find wheel studs for these trucks! I went to 7 different local auto parts stores until I had 4 that would work.
The first visit sent me home with ones that were too small in width and length but once that was sorted out the search began.
4 local Auto zones said they each had 1 piece in stock, only 3 of them could actually find the stud. In the end I got one more at O'Reillys.
Napa's nearest were in LoS Angeles...

I did get the Chevy wheel cylinders but have to put them on at another time. I tired to get the first side flare nut loose and it wasn't budging so will deal with them when I have more time.


To get the seal out I found a combination of sockets that allowed my Construction/Framing cats paw to get under the seal and tapped the high side with a short piece of rebar until the seal popped out.



To press the new seal back in this 1990 KX500 piston did a pretty good job. I rotated it about 5 times as I could only hit it on the skirt in one place and after 3-4 revolutions the seal was in place.