I got my radiator out today and made the exciting discovery that it is junk.
Par for the course I guess.

 

Hung the turbo, installed the heater core supply and return tubes/hoses and mounted the A/C compressor.







The braided hose for the bypass line lays exactly where I intended it to.







I tried to make one of these clamps work between the rear tubing clamp and its stand-off on the exhaust manifold. However, the OD of the braided hose was too large. I can make one of the proper length out of some thin gauge flat stock in the future. The hose has a very small amount of slack in it but not enough to move much or vibrate against anything near it.



Situated the heater core tubes at just the right height to clear the PRV.



Still enough room to get wrenches on the fittings.



Finally, I decided to buy an engine pre-oiler kit. Found a Summit special for $160. 2.5gal capacity with a 6ft braided hose. I can justify that price for my peace of mind about getting oil to the main rifle and all the passages to the main and rod bearings, etc.

 

Jimbo,
Wow that is looking good.
Does that pre oiler use the engine oil pressure to charge the tank?
Is there a solenoid to pressurize the engine once the key is turned to start?
Jim

 

Jim,

The pre-oiler won't be permanently mounted to the truck. I'm just using it for the first start to get oil to the main rifle and through the passages to the main and rod bearings, etc. to save all the cranking I'd have to do to build reasonable pressure prior to starting.

On the other side of the handle, there's a threaded fill cap in a bung where you can fill the tank. Looks like there's some condensate that I'll have to try and flush out before filling with oil.



As for pressurizing, there's a schrader valve and gauge threaded into the PRV body. The ball valve is threaded into a full-depth dip tube.

Here's some more info on it: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-csum9164

 

Jimbo,
Looks like a well built unit.

My bad, I thought you were installing a prelube system, not just for the first start up, equivalent to a oil pump shaft on a drill motor trick. (if you could reach the oil pump)

Have you considered a prelube system?
An accumulator, restrictor and a solenoid valve would prevent dry startups.

You could also use a air charged water fire extinguisher by adapting the hose with a fitting.

 

I've got a few......all junk. I put a Mishimoto aluminum radiator in mine. I don't know if they make one for a non intercooled, though. Part name on mine would indicate early first gen, but it isn't. It is correct for intercooled.`

This rad cools great. First one developed a pinhole leak, probably due to the fact the top mounts were a bit high. I shimmed the replacement and it's been fine for years.

 

Jumbo
If you have moisture inside the tank, and you have or can borrow a vacuum pump, you can remove the moisture by putting the tank under vacuum. Might not be easy reconnect, but it would eliminate the issue.

 

What is wrong with heating the tank a little and leaving it open?
Something along the lines of, setting in in the sun for an hour, or putting it in the oven that is turned OFF but still has a little residual heat.

 

That's what I am thinking. it has been so hot here I have to cover my tools with a rag to keep them cool enough to touch. Sun baked is the way to go

 

Never crossed my mind . Thanks. I'll give that a go.

 

Or you could head down to one of the seedy parts of town and find a dude which could lend you one of his vacuum ladies for the task at hand. I'm sure there's a few toothless ones out there that could help you out.

 

Pulled my steering gear for repair to the Pitman seal.

Hopefully get the unit back before carlisle..

 

I brought home a baby sister for Old Blue so she won't feel so lonely, and no longer have to work so hard.



2016 3500 Crew Long CTD with the Snow Chief package.

 

nice photo!

 

Me likey