took a little video while climbing a long hill in Arkansas. Was just real impressed with how cool she was running. gotta click the image to watch. sorry for the orientation.

 

Wow that is awesome!!! That is a serious trip, but it looks like you picked up some nice parts along the way.

 

It would definitely be pushing it. Maybe up to 3/8" as Gyman said.

M6-1.0x12mm. I can't recall where I bought them. Fastenal has them. I would imagine a good hardware store would as well. There's an option for a low profile socket cap through Fastenal, if you prefer that.

Spent some time yesterday and today cleaning up and painting a few parts.







VHT Engine Enamel "Chrysler Hemi Orange." Baked in an oven for 1 hour at 200* for final curing.



The valve covers go the same treatment and will get baked tomorrow.

 

Uh, What did the wife say when she found out you were cooking engine parts in her oven ?

 

You guys that have a hardware store that has stainless steel hardware on hand are spoiled! For those of us that live a long ways from town and "town" is a community with a population of 600 people we don't just run for anything most things are planned ahead of time.

 

anyone know of a tech article/how-to on skipping a tooth? i've found a few very brief "just do it this way" type threads but nothing great. thanks

 

It really is quite simple. I had to think it through quite a few times though myself. This is the way I did it and seemingly the easiest.

Run the engine around to TDC compression #1. Separate the gear from the pump. Loosen the 3 nuts holding the pump to the timing gear housing. Loosen the bolt at the bottom of the injection pump bracket holding it to its support bracket on the block. Let the pump roll down some as if retarding the timing. Slip the gear on lining up the 'C' on the pump gear to the '0' on the cam gear. Roll the injection pump slightly whichever way necessary to line up the key with the keyway in the gear. You may consider running the lock screw in just to ensure internal timing doesn't slip.

It was pretty easy for me only because my engine's out right now. The only difference was the pump was already out. I slipped the gear in and then fed the pump in. No support bracket or throttle linkage brackets in the way either.

 

Valve covers are done.

 

thank you! will be handling this tomorrow while the engine is still on the shop floor.

btw. i've been slowly painting my engine accessories hemi orange over the past year or so. painted the heater tubes orange since this picture

 

Bent up and installed new rear brake lines, bypassed the RWAL module too. Picked up a hydroboost off a 92 chev 1 ton today so will be tackling that soon. Also have some h4 conversion headlights, redhead steering box, aluminium rad and a few other goodies waiting to go in

 

Did another big dump run today....and also pulled out that noisy Hayden clutch fan and put the electric fans back in.

 

In the past week or two, I took a few days off to wrench on my old Dodges before they come back out on the road for the summer.
I spent most of the time working on the Gauntlet project which is a '89 Ramcharger getting a VE 12V and 4x4 'Rag combo.
I had a couple of friends help me for a few days.
We got the motor sealed back up with a new tappet cover, intake plate gasket, water pump, new turbo and gaskets, oil pan gasket, some VE pump seals, added a return fuel line that was missing and a few other things before test firing it up on the shop floor.
We then got it stuffed between the frame rails after pulling the front clip off.
The front axle was inspected only to find lots of finger tight nuts and missing parts.
The pinion seal was replaced after finding the yoke finger tight.
The wheels where pulled to find only 4 wheel studs on the holding the 2 inch wheel spacers on. We installed new wheel studs and torqued them down properly.
The finger tight hubs where pulled to find that no C-clips where installed on the hubs or axle shaft. I actually found the right C-clips in the dozens of boxes of parts that came with the RC.
Front brakes lines where bolted down with fresh copper washers.
The fuel tank was dropped and inspected for quality of work and all looked good.
I am expecting a South Bend Con -O clutch due here at the shop on Mon.
My good friend is also rebuilding the 'Rag for it before it is installed.

I also had the time to pull out all the rubber floor mat and soaked jut padding out of Poncho, my '91 W-250.
I found one floorboard had some rust so I tried the Evapo-Rust product for the first time.
That worked really well, so I followed it up with a cleaning, and taping it off. Then I primed and painted the floors up followed by adding a nice bench seat out of a '89 W-250 to replace the ripped one that came with it.
After an oil change / filter /lube and swapping the master cylinder brake cap and gasket, it is back on the road. My daughter and I took it out to visit my dad last night for dinner.

Then last on the list was the Vanilla Gorilla, which is my lifted white '85 crew cab. Yes, my daughter and I have a lot of fun naming old Dodge trucks.
It finally got a rebuilt reverse rotation box from Redhead installed.
I will have to order a steering shaft for it now to go from the 'Rag joint to the 3/4 splined end on the box.

 

It may have been mentioned already, so forgive me if it has. But what is the purpose for those valve covers that are joined with I would guess an oil bath housing?

 

I've had that same fan clutch from Napa on mine for 3 years, and the only time I ever hear it kick in is if I'm pullin heavy, or running 75 mph or higher for long periods of time.

 

ok, so just to talk it through and verify

1. line up the "E" and "O" on the gears
2. lock the IP timing by removing the washer from the lock bolt on the side of the pump
3. loosen all the bolts holding the pump in place
4. pull the IP gear
5. re-install IP gear by lining up the "C" and the "O"

am i tracking?