How many kilowatts of heat are you pumping out at 237- amps?
My Leece Neville 110-555JHO gets hot but not glowing.

 

Nice weather day today, so I inspected and lubed up the driver side rear brakes. show you the difference between aftermarket and OEM brake cable. The bottom one is from Dodge. The top one is raybestos. Huge difference, and why they fail due to water infiltrating the casing.

I did what Oliver said with the heat shrink tubing.

Well see..

 

Anyway,

Rear brake shoes still good. Everything looked okay except it was all rusting. Replaced the springs, lubed the center pivot for the E brake lever, and luckily I took it all apart, as look what I found inside which was hidden by the e brake lever .. That would have snapped, and the spring cage and wire would have got caught between the drum and shoes.

These Fel pro gaskets are well worth the couple dollars each. It makes it so simple to do the cleanup, as they're really isn't any. Pull the axle, wipe it down, replace the gasket with new, tighten bolts. No goop to scrape or real cleanup.

 

Good idea about the axle gaskets.

 

No idea; the truck has minimal power requirements, the battery/alternator are seriously under utilized.
The alternator casing barely gets warm even after the grids have cycled for a few minutes.
May toss a Webasto fuel block heater on next week to prevent the battery/alternator from going on welfare.

 

When I had the truck in the shop, I had read a post somewhere stating that with an aftermarket fuel pin the little factory nylon spaced wasn't needed so I took it out. Drove the truck and had no boost, put it back in same thing. So yesterday I used bigragu's thread to mod the afc line thinking I had messed it up. No change, so I checked my boots. All good and tight.

Then it clicked in my head I had probably messed up the little line to my gauge when I was under the dash messing with my clutch pedal. I plugged the manifold where I have the gauge hooked and wala problem solved. Moral of the story, that little nylon line will leak a whole lot more than one would think. Going to stop and get some hose barb fittings and I think some 5/32 vacuum line tonight and hook my gauge back up with it, instead of the plastic line. Then take that little spacer back off the fuel pin and try again.

 

If everything is good to go for any boost leaks, that AFC mod to the 1/4" line will be felt performance wise
So, I left this information out originally in my AFC post. I did this mod years ago, and found out others before me did the same, for valet switch reasons. The pics you see that Vader posted for me were taken the day of the post. Those push to connect fittings, my original ones had been on there for years. Always wondered if those would eventually leak over time.
Over time I learned about the DOT types, with the brass tube that goes into the tubing when the tube is inserted, thus creating a tighter seal. Knowing I had surgery coming up, I needed something to fiddle with that wasn't strenuous, so I had another AFC top sold to me from another member on here. If you look in my pics, you will see the DOT fittings with that inner tube.
Fast forward to last Friday. Drove into town to meet MKnittle for lunch. My boost jumps way faster and now a higher boost is attainable. That tells me the Parker non DOT fittings had been leaking. Probably also why my idle haze seems a lot less.
Make sure and use the DOT style fittings if you do this mod. If you don't have a local Hose and Fittings close by, they can be had from your local Kenworth dealer

 

I used one of the DOT fittings on the AFC top, the one one the engine is jus a compression fitting as the DOT fitting was just long enough it wouldn't clear my injector lines. I was in a hurry and it was a little chilly so I just used hat worked at the moment, I will take the time to put the other one on later.

Just by the "seat of the pants" gauge it feels to spool a lot quicker now. I'll know for sure once the gauge is hooked back up.

 

You could not thread on another 90 degree DOT elbow onto the head? Those DOT fittings with the NPT taps on one end will swivel. A little tricky getting an open end wrench in there, but it can be done @ 1/4 turns a pop.
Glad you feel the difference

 

I can. The ones I got do not swivel, (I think that's just another place to leak,) the hose side is just long enough that it hits the injector line as I try to thread it in. It's just a matter of taking the clamp off and moving the line a 1/4 of an inch to thread the fitting in.

 

Hillbilly, curious on your fitting type. Are they black, plastic, and the wrench flat area above the NPT threaded portion more of a star shape deal rather than a hex bolt shape?

 

All brass Gates fitting. Part number on Napa receipt: G31104-0402

 

Ok, I see the issue now with not having the room- thanks

 

No problem, Yea, it's just a tad bit long, but I think if I take the clamp off the lines I can get it in there. Probably tinker with that this weekend.

Got the boost gauge line fixed tonight, took it for a quick spin. I must say the larger line to the AFC, makes a huge difference. It does spool a lot quicker, and I attain more boost just heavy footing it around town.

It might just be in my head as its been a few weeks since I drove it last, but it appears to hold more boost between shifts as well.

 

Check the boost numbers it takes to get you to a speed of say 70 mph, and how long it takes you to 70 mph. I'm not asking you to race it to 70, just normal everyday, off to work driving. You'll see that it gets to 70 faster than before, with less boost. Lastly, look at the boost number at freeway cruising speed on flat- you may be down in boost by 1-2 psi compared to where you were before the mod.