DC199512V87

Question on home built traction bars for u experts. I can get the whole heim joint and bar part no problem but some ppl talk about a shackle that u should run to prevent binding. can someone pls walk me thru this step by step as I fail to see where it goes in the setup and how it won't negate the purpose and operation on the bars. I get the whole swing arc and all that on a fixed length bar and can see how in vertical operation of the suspension the track bar length (hypotenuse) needs to change to prevent binding but this shackle thing has me confused thanks......

jstone44720

This is my understanding of the theory:

The nature of the leaf spring mounts on the truck force them to move the axle forward and backward relative to the truck as the suspension cycles. The shackle allows for this movement and will not cause the rear suspension to bind where a heim joint will.

The shackle should be the forward mount point for the traction bar. It looks just like a leaf spring shackle and hangs straight down from its frame mount. The shackle, if it is pointed more or less vertical at ride height, will still prevent change in pinion angle/wheel hop, but will not make the suspension bind.

There are lots of sets of bars out there that don't use the shackle and their owners don't complain of suspension bind, but could you really tell on our trucks?

DC199512V87

Ok its starting to makes sense. the only thing I still dn understand is if the shackles on the leaf springs allow back n forth motion of the axle won't the shackle on the traction bar allow the movement as well? maybe I'm just a slow learner

jstone44720

That is the exact idea. They allow the leaf spring to move the axle fore and aft to reduce suspension bind, but still don't allow the pinion angle to change. Forward and back isn't the problem, it is the rapid wrapping and unwrapping of the leaf springs that are the problem.

dieselfreak21

I have read the theroy but never seen it happen and how the springs are mounted wouldn't allow any movement of the axle that I can see. I'm no expert by any means. I base this on loading up a truck with wieght and comparing space of the tire in wheel well and have yet to experience movement front or back. Have never seen marks on the spring to indicate movement. Now i could see the axle moving foward or back as the spring wraps and unwraps and have seen that happen. I don't have a set yet but not planning on a shackel. I may break some stuff in the long run as I am tired of eating u joints when i pull the 5th wheel. So I'm used to breaks. I can't see it helping. i could only seeing keep the same problem to a point. But again no expert and maybe I'm missing something. Guess that is the "SHOW-ME" mentality I have.

DC199512V87

Pretty sure that makes sense to me now. here's another one now. y not just run one bar from the top of the diff to the frame on a ball joint or equivalent style setup to allow full side to side movement of the axle like in a offroad situation yet still have the benefits of a traction bar as it will stop the axle from rotating. I just heard this from a buddy that fabs a lotta his own stuff and he said that's what he used to do with no problems. anyone try this out or have any thoughts to add? it would b a sweet setup, not visible or hang down and get caught on stuff when four by fouring and wouldn't act like a sway bar. sounds like a win win win to me no?

DC199512V87

No takers ey?

gorms

I've seen a few set ups on small block jeeps with big arch springs that had one bar to the top of the diff.

I would also think that traction bars who's pivot/swing matches the axle's vertical movement wouldn't need shackles (low pivot point). Maybe if the pivot was up higher, like tucked into the frame I could see the need. I'm not an expert by any means either.

jstone44720

Welding to the cast iron housing is a non starter. Pre-heating it enough to get good fusion would melt the pinion seals.

If you can get around the welding, it could work OK. Camaro's had a setup similar to that from the factory forever.

DC199512V87

Good input. decided to go with the traditional method.....two bars. looks cooler n I can build them for right around $100