totalloser

Weak link is the transmission in an auto hands down IMO. 3.55's are the strongest ratio in these trucks- larger pinion = more contact. But the ratio puts the extra torque on the transmission. The rear end will be a dana 80 which is roughly 11.25" diameter, compared to 11.5 AAM's used in the newer trucks- pretty similar in strength aside from 1/4" diameter change which 3.55's will more than overcome by more tooth contact compared to AAM's with lower ratios.

Personally I'd be considering a billet torque converter as top of the list. An acquaintance of mine hauls firewood in his (hauling heavy regularly) and has gone through 3 stock torque converters on a stock engine. Towing will be harder on the transmission than ANYTHING you can put in the bed.

My truck came with 3.55's, but with the stick shifts this is less of an issue due to the low first and reverse ratios in the transmission.

Brakes brakes brakes, but realize that the front brakes on unit bearing 2nd gens suck new or old. The wheel size doesn't accommodate a rotor large enough to offset the loss of friction surface from the larger diameter unit bearing. Just a really stupid combination that gives terrible performance from the front brakes. Be aware of it, they will heat up easily.

1 ton doesn't mean it got overload springs. Some 3/4 tons got them, some one tons did not. If there is a second leaf pack that when heavily loaded hits bumps on the frame, you have the overload springs. If your load sits on them on flat ground the load is a bit excessive IMO to begin with, but where they really come into play is on off cambers and dips in the road. The overloads keep things under control. Just something to be aware of- especially with fifth wheel due to the amount of load you can place in the bed.

I don't know if the 3rd gen brake mod works on the 2wds but I would really encourage you to look into it- makes the brakes work as they should and it's very very simple aside from needing larger wheels.

I pull relatively big now and then...

ProPerDoper

Thanks for the perspective.....

My 1 Ton has the overloads, and I installed air bags which help alot. My 10,500 lb fifth wheel doesn't make the overloads come into contact, until large dips in the road. (The rebound makes for an exciting time... :-) My trans has been rebuilt with overdrive updates, Kevlar bands and a billet torque converter.

Interesting perspective on the 3.55:1 axle ratio. For me, it's not a matter of load capability of the rear diff gears, but rather an issue of getting as much torque to the rear wheel for towing, especially on grades.

I'm getting used to towing in 3rd more often now, having learned a bit more about where the CTD likes to be in the RPM range under tow load. Although a 4.10:1 is appealing for towing, I love my 3.55:1 unloaded on freeway runs. I can get into overdrive when towing if on flats and in excess of about 62 mph, although my EGT's run about 200 degrees higher at 900 or so.

Still unsure about what I want to do here. Keep my existing ratio, or move to 4.10:1 for better towing and contend with higher RPM's (estimate 2100 or so) at 70 mph unloaded.

cLAYH

4.10s were often an option that came with manual trans.

How much do you tow vs drive unloaded? If you tow more than drive unloaded than going to 4.10s would make sense.

Personally since its a 2wd I would switch out to 4.10s. It will give you the most bang for your buck. You'll even find that you'll get better mpg when towing with 4.10s as you'll be in OD sooner and more often. Also backing up in R will be easier. Unless you fly along at 80+MPH all the time you really won't miss anything.

My last two trucks were duallies, 2001 with 3.55s and 2003 with 4.10s. The 2001 had more performance upgrades but the 2003 towed way better because of the gears. I now have a 2006 2500 with 3.73s and miss the 4.10s.

ProPerDoper

The main purpose of the truck is for towing my fifth wheel at about 10,500 lbs. I do use the truck on occasion for other things not related to towing, but for the most part it sits until we tow for travel with the fifth wheel.

I've calculated anticipated RPM at 70 mph unloaded around 2200 RPM. That's equivalent to my towing RPM in 3rd now with my 3.55's at about 62 MPH, and I'm still trying to get used to that higher RPM in cab engine noise.

Calculated RPM at 62 MPH with 4.10's is 1840 RPM....just about right.

Seems there's a trade off with both sets of gears: 3.55's are doggy in OD unless I get to 62 MPH + while towing, and locking out OD and towing in 3rd when hill climbing is a must. Seems 4.10's will allow towing in OD more often, and provide better torque to the ground while towing overall, especially in hills, but will wind up the engine RPM's pretty good at fwy speeds while unloaded.

For the most part then, switching to 4.10's seems the right choice given the primary function of the truck.

One last question remains for me however: What's the overall effective ratio with stock tires with the 3.55's in 3rd gear, vs. the 4.10's in OD. Seems I should evaluate which set up will provide more torque to the ground to determine which is better while climbing grades.

Given your experience with both I'd love to have a conversation to discuss your experience while towing with each set. I'll send a PM with my contact info with hopes for a quick chat.

NE frmhnd

1:1 drive ratio X 3.55 rear gears = 3.55 overall ratio.
What's the OD ratio, .79:1, isn't it?
.79 X 4.10 = 3.239
.79 X 3.55 = 2.8045

OD with 3.55's would be the equivalent of 2.80's in direct, and OD with 4.55's would be the equivalent of 3.23's in direct.

Seems to me fairly recently, someone on here had a hotshot rig that was eating 5th gear in the NV4500. They slowed from 70 MPH in 5th, to 65 in 4th, and despite the higher RPM, started getting better fuel mileage.

ProPerDoper

If I understand this correctly, I've got greater torque multiplication through gear ratio while pulling in 3rd with my current 3.55's, vs what I'd have with 4'10's pulling in OD. Do I have that right?

If this is correct, then keeping my current ratio, pulling in 3rd with a max cruise speed of about 60 mph, is a pull with more torque than if going with 4.10's in OD. Plus, my 3.55's allow an incredible highway range when empty and in OD.

I'm thinking that I rethink changing any gears out maybe.....

wilderness

I have a buddy that bought an 01 cab and chassis and he added the methanol injection that uses below freeze windshield washer fluid to make the gas. It keeps his egt's down and can pull a steep grade with a New Holland skid steer in 5th gear with no problems. He's running the bully dog on the middle setting and just put the 5" turbo back exhaust and loves it. Stock CTD's are slugs but if you know what to do, they're a sleeping giant. Keep us posted.

wilderness

In regards to towing, especially 5th wheel, I installed air bags on the back of my '96. It doesn't matter if you have the helper springs or not, with the air bags, my front end has never had to have new ball joints. My second '96 2500 doesn't have the helpers and I put a pallet of ready mix in the back and it squatted bad and the front end was riding way too high. I plan to install the firestone airbags with compressor so I can adjust on the road. They have front airbags as well. But even with the manual pump bags it's worth every penny. I can load the bed with my welder/generator and job box and load my 22' GI hitch trailer with an entire job load of steel, around 11,000 lbs including trailer and the back end stays level. Rides so much better. I recommend bags to anyone who hauls or tows even just occasionally.