Hey all , i am new to the board , been readin for a while , i have a big problem that prompted me to join.

I went to start my truck this afternoon and it cranked right up like normal , i let go of the key and it stalled , started right back up again then stalled as soon as i let go of the key.

i remember reading a post here a while ago sayin if you held the key in the start position it would continue to run , so i tried it and it does.

what i cannot remember from that post is what the problem was , and how to fix it.

anyone that can help me gets all the thanks i have! i need my ride to get to work tomorrow morning! thank you for the help!

 

Your shut down solenoid isn't working. The $250 solenoid is seldom the problem, many are replaced needlessly. That's what will happen if a dealer gets hold of it. Most often it's the solenoid relay or the blue fusible link. The relay contacts can be cleaned or replaced, get a new one here with instructions www.fostertruck.com in the meantime some wire can be used to hold the solenoid up. Solenoid is at rear of injection pump, has three wires to it.
The blue link runs from the driver's side battery this is most often the problem, corroded at the battery. Auto parts carries them, ask for a blue.

 

I did some poking around this afternoon and found a fuse in the cab burnt out , replaced it with another one , and it burntout instantly.

says in the owners manual that the fuse is for :

fuel pump relay , A/C compressor clutch relay , automatic shutdown relay , transmission overdrive solonoid (don't think it is that , because i have a 5 speed) egr solonoid , powertrain control module , and the ignition module.

thanks for the help so far , i am going to go out and check that fusible link.

 

Since it is starting it means it is not the blue link or the firewall mounted relay- these are related to the pulling (ie starting) side of the fuel solenoid.
It is that fuse in your cab (#9 i think) that is where you need to focus your attention. If it is blowing fuses it is either in the wiring to the solenoid or the soleniod itself. It is that fuse that goes to the 'holding' side of the fuel soleniod through the ignition switch. I would say check the wiring by unplugging the 3-wire connector to the soleniod itself and see if it still blows fuses (or has continuity to ground) when you turn the ignition key to the run position. If the wiring is ok chances are your one of the lucky ones that actually needs a $$$ new solenoid. (I had to replace mine too)

For now you can do what I did and can tie it up manually. There is also people that have put in a manual pull push cable with good results. Good luck

db

 

Sorry db but the pull up coil of the solenoid is engergized by the starter. That's why when your starter contacts get worn and stick the result is often the shut down solenoid frys from overheating. This is about the only time that the solenoid fails.
The blue link engergizes the hold up coil.

 

we just put a new starter on this winter , and i turns out the solonoid was fried , it is tied up for the moment , but how am i supposed to shut the truck off now?

got a new solonoid on order , $500 CAD , ouch.....

 

infidel ( by the way I think that that name is great )
I know the pull up coil is controlled by the starter contacts ---- but even though it's been awile since I messed with mine ----- I thought that all the starter contacts do is energize the coil in the 70 amp relay. Which then feeds power to the pull side of the fuel solenoid powered by that blue fuse link connected directly to the battery terminal. That said I know that I've been wrong before.

I know on my 97' when I pull the fusable link off the battery OR the connector from the70 amp relay that the 'pull' part of the solenoid doesn't work and when I pull the # 9 fuse inside the cab that the 'hold' part of the solenoid doesn't work. Maybe 97's are different? I'd be curious to know if your truck does the same thing. So if you go out & pull the connector off the bigger relay or the link off the battery and see if the pull up part of the solenoid still works then it is different from mine. I'll have to double check mine tommorrow cause I don't want to mislead anyone on this solenoid issue that ,in my opinion, is way more complex than it has to be no matter wich way it operates.

db

 

You're right db, don't know what I was thinking about...
Here's a wiring diagram you'll have to cut and paste it to a photo software or Word and enlarge it.


http://www.fostertruck.com/images/Ram_wire_diagram.jpg