B3.3T Jeep YJ
I posted a link awhile back to the flywheel I used. It was light but had a balancing weight on it. In hindsight I should've had the flywheel machined to make it neutrally balanced. Although I haven't been able to detect any negative consequences of having that balancing weight on there. I'm guessing at the engines low rpm's the balancing weight is swamped out by the rest of the rotating mass?
I keep thinking when my transmission blows up I'll re-balance the flywheel then. However the AX15 keeps taking the abuse. . .
I keep thinking when my transmission blows up I'll re-balance the flywheel then. However the AX15 keeps taking the abuse. . .
TDIwyse,
Searching Ebay, I have a choice beteween a flywheel for an internally balanced engine and an externally balanced engine. The picture from your link looks as if your flywheel is for an externally balance engine due to the balance weights. I could be wrong.
Chris
AKA: BigBlue
Searching Ebay, I have a choice beteween a flywheel for an internally balanced engine and an externally balanced engine. The picture from your link looks as if your flywheel is for an externally balance engine due to the balance weights. I could be wrong.
Chris
AKA: BigBlue
In hindsight I would've chosen the internally balanced flywheel -- which I believe means the flywheel is neutrally balanced. But I'm not certain on that . . . perhaps someone who knows more can contribute to your question.
Regarding the pilot bushing: I couldn't find a bushing that had the correct dimensions for the transmission shaft and the input diameter of the Pheonix Casting adapter from the trans side. I did find one that had the correct outer diameter for the backside of the Pheonix Casting adapter and the transmission input shaft.
See pic "http://www.flickr.com/photos/10201173@N06/839226408/"
It's hard to see but I pressed it into the cone adapter from the cement floor side in the pic. The inner diameter fit the AX15 input shaft.
I'm a couple weeks from the 2 year anniversary of the B3.3T powered YJ as my daily driver
Regarding the pilot bushing: I couldn't find a bushing that had the correct dimensions for the transmission shaft and the input diameter of the Pheonix Casting adapter from the trans side. I did find one that had the correct outer diameter for the backside of the Pheonix Casting adapter and the transmission input shaft.
See pic "http://www.flickr.com/photos/10201173@N06/839226408/"
It's hard to see but I pressed it into the cone adapter from the cement floor side in the pic. The inner diameter fit the AX15 input shaft.
I'm a couple weeks from the 2 year anniversary of the B3.3T powered YJ as my daily driver
Chevy Flywheel Info
Pre-1986 small block Chevys used a two-piece rear crankshaft seal. The crankshaft had a " balancing weight" cast (or forged) onto the rear flange of the crankshaft. In other words, the crankshaft flange was not circular.
In 1986, Chevy changed to a one piece lip seal for the rear of the crankshaft. This seal required a machined circular surface for the "lip" to seal to. Therefore, the "balancing weight" had to be removed from the crankshaft flange. To compensate for the weight being removed from crankshaft, Chevy added a weight to the flywheel/flexplate. In spite of this "balancing" weight, the post-1986 SBC is considered internally balanced.
Therefore, the flywheel you will need is from a pre-1986 SBC with a two-piece rear seal. A large 168 tooth and a smaller 153 tooth flywheel are available. The 168 tooth will allow the use of a 12" clutch, while the 153 tooth will allow for a maximum 11" clutch.
For OEM applications check 1984 Chevy C10 with 350 engine for 168 tooth flywheel and 1984 Chevy Camaro with 305 engine for 153 tooth flywheel.
Hope this helps.
TDIwyse,
thanks for the info on the bushing and flywheel. It's good to hear that you made a major milestone with no problems. I don't think you'll have to worry about destroying that AX-15 with your flywheel - you've made it this far
I'll take some measurements today and give AA a call tommorrow and find out more about their bushing sleeve. I have a small lathe and maybe able to turn my own.
Chris
AKA: BigBlue
thanks for the info on the bushing and flywheel. It's good to hear that you made a major milestone with no problems. I don't think you'll have to worry about destroying that AX-15 with your flywheel - you've made it this far

I'll take some measurements today and give AA a call tommorrow and find out more about their bushing sleeve. I have a small lathe and maybe able to turn my own.
Chris
AKA: BigBlue
At idle the whole truck rattles pretty badly. Once you give is a little throttle it is pretty smooth. I'm not going to touch the idle screw yet because I need a baseline for setting my tach, but a zip tie on the lever did well.
The mounts are doing ok canceling some of the vibe. Not sure what would be better. Not knowing otherwise I am happy.
I am going to reconfigure my rear driver’s side mount to give room for the front drive shaft. I think I can use the top mounting pad. This may also help with the vibes.
TDI roughly how much clearance do you have between the bottom drivers pad and your front drive shaft?
I first made a few laps around some fields to build confidence. I eventually got on the road and went maybe 20 miles. The 3.3 moves the jeep almost effortlessly I am impressed. I have no fan yet and out outside temp was over 100 and the engine temp hovered around 180 until I sat still even then it took it a while to climb. Plus the radiator is not in the best shape. Got to get a new one.
The mounts are doing ok canceling some of the vibe. Not sure what would be better. Not knowing otherwise I am happy.
I am going to reconfigure my rear driver’s side mount to give room for the front drive shaft. I think I can use the top mounting pad. This may also help with the vibes.
TDI roughly how much clearance do you have between the bottom drivers pad and your front drive shaft?
I first made a few laps around some fields to build confidence. I eventually got on the road and went maybe 20 miles. The 3.3 moves the jeep almost effortlessly I am impressed. I have no fan yet and out outside temp was over 100 and the engine temp hovered around 180 until I sat still even then it took it a while to climb. Plus the radiator is not in the best shape. Got to get a new one.
Wait 'til you're doing 70 mph into a strong headwind
Yeah. I haven't tried anything aggressive yet mainly flat.
I may have 1 inch. I checked the prints both are positioned the same from the rear of the engine. Comparing with your pics our heights look close. Hmmmm
I may have 1 inch. I checked the prints both are positioned the same from the rear of the engine. Comparing with your pics our heights look close. Hmmmm
I'll double check tonight with a ruler. I wasn't about to get on my back and slide under there and measure it with my work duds on.
Looking at your picture here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/25551533@N03/2513213857/
Is it the rear or the front driver mount that has the min spacing? It almost looks like the engine bottom is close to the front drive shaft? I think perhaps I placed my engine off center to the passenger side a little more than what yours looks like?
Looking at your picture here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/25551533@N03/2513213857/
Is it the rear or the front driver mount that has the min spacing? It almost looks like the engine bottom is close to the front drive shaft? I think perhaps I placed my engine off center to the passenger side a little more than what yours looks like?




