That little MIG is perfect for thin jobs I had no problem welding to the frame. I was mostly worried about penetration on the 5/16 pieces I welded to the frame. Yeah, with a stick it is a little harder welding to thinner plate.

 

I see that you don't have a CPL #. If I recall correctly, I didn't see a CPL on TDIwyse's engine plate, either.

Concerning your mounts........please don't be offended. I'm concerned about your design. An engine mount is only as strong as its weakest link. The only thing supporting your engine is the bolt running through both brackets and the bushings. I think the engine bracket should be ABOVE the frame bracket. The weight of the engine should be resting on the frame bracket, not just hanging from a single bolt. If the bolt were to fail, the engine would drop increasing the load on the other mount bolt possibly causing it to fail. In addition, I think you may have difficulty keeping the nut tight.

 

Yeah, I don't recall seeing a CPL # on mine.

I may change my mounts to something like Macet's. Looks more elegant than mine and seem like they should be stronger. Good point on the bolt/bracket, I missed that when I was looking at his mounts. Shouldn't be too hard to make a different L bracket from the engine to the frame mount point to change that.

I'm looking forward to hearing from him on how he likes his mounts.

 

Not offended, I love to argue.

I am confident in what I have done. I am not an expert in SAE bolt specifications but I have looked a little for specifications and on one website it is showing that one ½ grade 5 bolt will have a breaking strength of 17,000 lbs I had two then and have four now. How far would I have to drop this engine to develop this force (just for one)? Having it hanging like that I am achieving the same thing as having the engine resting on top. As for nut backing either way they are subjected to the same motion.

If it will make you feel better I will put in some grade 8 bolts… lol

I may go the other way some day lets see how they work…

Initially that is what I was going to do. But considering that this engine is made to run with (ZERO) power angle I wanted to be able to adjust the front of the engine down if I see frothing of my oil.

I finished the rear last night take a look. Hope you will be happy with those. Here also I can adjust the power angle by shimming the back of the engine up. So all in all I tried to make everything so I can adjust the power angle of the engine.

 

Dang that's lookin' nice. How is your driveline angle at the back looking? When are you going to fire it up in the jeep?

 

Beach is calling this weekend. If it wasn't for that I could have it done this weekend. Don't have my T-case installed yet to check the angle. It should be ok except for the shackle lift.

 

Macet
Can you accurately measure the length of your engine from the face of the water pump shaft to the tranny side of the PC adapter ring? I haven't decided on a vehicle as of yet. Having an accurate length will help me narrow down the candidates. Thanks.

 

No Problem. I'll do my best.

 

I've dimensioned and measured my b3.3. From water pump pully to back of cummins bellhousing is 28". My bellhousing is the short Aluminum version. Would just need to add the adapter thickness to get the measure you need.

I have other measurements as well.

 

Thanks for the measurement. I recall seeing length stated as 27.7" by Cummins, but didn't know if it was with or without the flywheel housing or with which flywheel housing. Macet's setup should be close to 30" We'll know for sure after he measures it. Having performed two S10 V8 conversions, I am very familiar with the S10 platform and understand why B3.3 Sonoma had so many challenges.

For reference, I measured the 4.0L six cylinder gasser in my 1998 XJ and it is 31.3" from the front of the crankshaft dampener to the rear of the block. The front of the water pump shaft is even with the front of the dampener.

 

Hi Guys,

Here is what I have. Sorry it took so long.

SAE 4 sort (Aluminum housing) total length 1.13 spacer + 1 adapter + 27.69 total engine length 29.82" (corrected)

SAE 4 deep 31.97 (2.15" longer flywheel housing/flywheel pair) (corrected)

I hope to be running in the next two weeks. It took me longer to wire than to install the engine. My headache did well for me everything works like I planned.

 

OK, I'm confused again. I thought 27.69" included the flywheel housing. Slowtoyota's measurement seems to support this.

Macet, I was thinking the length of your assembly = 27.69 + 1.13 (spacer thickness) + (PC adapter ring thickness) Or am I misunderstanding again?

 

Sorry, I think I was still asleep when I wrote that. I corrected above.

 

95Z28A4,

My engine measures 30.25 inches from the fan bolt on the water pump to the flywheel housing. I have the long, steel housing. The engine is still on the stand.

My engine has a CPL 2673. Maybe this is for generators?

I ordered my AA adapter and should be getting it today. Anyone suggest a 10.5 inch flywheel?

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

Did ya go with Chevy or Chrysler?

That's pretty close to what the print states. My figure accounts for the 1" PC adapter.

I am going to use a 10.5 but I hate to advise until it is running.