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B3.3T Jeep YJ

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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 03:26 PM
  #436  
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Macet,

went the Chevy route. It might be best to go the known route and use a stock flywheel. I don't have the time to make changes if a non-stock alternative doesn't work out.

Chris
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 07:45 AM
  #437  
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I posted a link awhile back to the flywheel I used. It was light but had a balancing weight on it. In hindsight I should've had the flywheel machined to make it neutrally balanced. Although I haven't been able to detect any negative consequences of having that balancing weight on there. I'm guessing at the engines low rpm's the balancing weight is swamped out by the rest of the rotating mass?

I keep thinking when my transmission blows up I'll re-balance the flywheel then. However the AX15 keeps taking the abuse. . .
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 12:13 PM
  #438  
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Originally Posted by TDIwyse
I keep thinking when my transmission blows up I'll re-balance the flywheel then. However the AX15 keeps taking the abuse. . .
Yep, we have one in a 1995 XJ with 290k miles. It still shifts as slick as ever.
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 02:20 PM
  #439  
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TDIwyse,


Searching Ebay, I have a choice beteween a flywheel for an internally balanced engine and an externally balanced engine. The picture from your link looks as if your flywheel is for an externally balance engine due to the balance weights. I could be wrong.

Chris
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 02:43 PM
  #440  
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Steel Sleeve

Did anyone have to use the steel sleeve (AA P/N 716155) to install the pilot bushing into the PC flywheel cone adapter? or I am I missing something here?

Chris
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Old Jun 7, 2008 | 03:06 PM
  #441  
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In hindsight I would've chosen the internally balanced flywheel -- which I believe means the flywheel is neutrally balanced. But I'm not certain on that . . . perhaps someone who knows more can contribute to your question.

Regarding the pilot bushing: I couldn't find a bushing that had the correct dimensions for the transmission shaft and the input diameter of the Pheonix Casting adapter from the trans side. I did find one that had the correct outer diameter for the backside of the Pheonix Casting adapter and the transmission input shaft.

See pic "http://www.flickr.com/photos/10201173@N06/839226408/"

It's hard to see but I pressed it into the cone adapter from the cement floor side in the pic. The inner diameter fit the AX15 input shaft.

I'm a couple weeks from the 2 year anniversary of the B3.3T powered YJ as my daily driver
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Old Jun 8, 2008 | 07:43 AM
  #442  
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Chevy Flywheel Info

Originally Posted by TDIwyse
In hindsight I would've chosen the internally balanced flywheel -- which I believe means the flywheel is neutrally balanced. But I'm not certain on that . . . perhaps someone who knows more can contribute to your question.
Maybe I can help. All small block Chevy engines are considered "internally balanced" with the exception of the 400 SBC. The 400 SBC is externally balanced and uses a special vibration dampener and flywheel to achieve balance. The two must be installed together on the engine for proper balance. If I recall correctly this engine was produced from 1970 - 1978.

Pre-1986 small block Chevys used a two-piece rear crankshaft seal. The crankshaft had a " balancing weight" cast (or forged) onto the rear flange of the crankshaft. In other words, the crankshaft flange was not circular.

In 1986, Chevy changed to a one piece lip seal for the rear of the crankshaft. This seal required a machined circular surface for the "lip" to seal to. Therefore, the "balancing weight" had to be removed from the crankshaft flange. To compensate for the weight being removed from crankshaft, Chevy added a weight to the flywheel/flexplate. In spite of this "balancing" weight, the post-1986 SBC is considered internally balanced.

Therefore, the flywheel you will need is from a pre-1986 SBC with a two-piece rear seal. A large 168 tooth and a smaller 153 tooth flywheel are available. The 168 tooth will allow the use of a 12" clutch, while the 153 tooth will allow for a maximum 11" clutch.

For OEM applications check 1984 Chevy C10 with 350 engine for 168 tooth flywheel and 1984 Chevy Camaro with 305 engine for 153 tooth flywheel.

Hope this helps.
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Old Jun 8, 2008 | 04:37 PM
  #443  
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TDIwyse,

thanks for the info on the bushing and flywheel. It's good to hear that you made a major milestone with no problems. I don't think you'll have to worry about destroying that AX-15 with your flywheel - you've made it this far

I'll take some measurements today and give AA a call tommorrow and find out more about their bushing sleeve. I have a small lathe and maybe able to turn my own.

Chris
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Old Jun 8, 2008 | 04:40 PM
  #444  
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95Z28A4,

thanks for the info. on the flywheel.

Chris
AKA: BigBlue
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 07:15 AM
  #445  
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I'M ROLLING GUYS!!!!!!!

I feel like I need a breaking plow behind this thing.
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 09:10 AM
  #446  
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Nice!

Can you describe how the mounts are working? How are the vibes? What type of driving have you been doing?
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 10:03 AM
  #447  
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At idle the whole truck rattles pretty badly. Once you give is a little throttle it is pretty smooth. I'm not going to touch the idle screw yet because I need a baseline for setting my tach, but a zip tie on the lever did well.

The mounts are doing ok canceling some of the vibe. Not sure what would be better. Not knowing otherwise I am happy.

I am going to reconfigure my rear driver’s side mount to give room for the front drive shaft. I think I can use the top mounting pad. This may also help with the vibes.

TDI roughly how much clearance do you have between the bottom drivers pad and your front drive shaft?

I first made a few laps around some fields to build confidence. I eventually got on the road and went maybe 20 miles. The 3.3 moves the jeep almost effortlessly I am impressed. I have no fan yet and out outside temp was over 100 and the engine temp hovered around 180 until I sat still even then it took it a while to climb. Plus the radiator is not in the best shape. Got to get a new one.
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 10:20 AM
  #448  
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Originally Posted by Macet
TDI roughly how much clearance do you have between the bottom drivers pad and your front drive shaft?
Went out to the parking lot and took a peek. I assume you're talking about the rear driver mount? By eye-balling it I'd say ~3-4 inches. At full articulation (limited by my extended bump stops) it's got room to spare before making contact.

Originally Posted by Macet
The 3.3 moves the jeep almost effortlessly I am impressed.
Wait 'til you're doing 70 mph into a strong headwind
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 12:34 PM
  #449  
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Yeah. I haven't tried anything aggressive yet mainly flat.

I may have 1 inch. I checked the prints both are positioned the same from the rear of the engine. Comparing with your pics our heights look close. Hmmmm
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 01:55 PM
  #450  
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I'll double check tonight with a ruler. I wasn't about to get on my back and slide under there and measure it with my work duds on.

Looking at your picture here

http://www.flickr.com/photos/25551533@N03/2513213857/

Is it the rear or the front driver mount that has the min spacing? It almost looks like the engine bottom is close to the front drive shaft? I think perhaps I placed my engine off center to the passenger side a little more than what yours looks like?


Originally Posted by Macet
Yeah. I haven't tried anything aggressive yet mainly flat.

I may have 1 inch. I checked the prints both are positioned the same from the rear of the engine. Comparing with your pics our heights look close. Hmmmm
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