sgltrk

I'm not worried about the clutch size as I'm running small tires on a fairly light vehicle with a four speed t-case. I'm building an expedition type rig rather than a rock crawler. Plus, those 10" clutches held up in one ton chassis under mini-motorhomes.

As far as I know everyone has used Phoenix Casting adapters so there is no question they work. I just prefer using a single flywheel and having the ability of getting a replacement starter from any local auto parts.

I hope there are others out there following this thread and doing this swap too.

SGLTRK

95Z28A4

I have a part number for a Vickers SAE A vane pump - V10F1P3P38D3F20 . I do not know if this is the correct part number, but I think it is a good place to start researching. If you are running hydroboost brakes, you will need 3 - 4 GPM at 1500 psig.

Here's a link that will help you decipher the part number.

http://www.go2hydraulics.com/docs/mf...vane-pumps.pdf

sgltrk

Thanks for the info. I got a pump along with the engine. It is a Rexroth AZP series pump. I'm waiting for an email with the spec sheet. All I know that this point is its a gear pump rather than vane.

I'll let you know when I know more.

SGLTRK

db8

Sorry for the delay fellas, I got swamped at work.
95Z, thanks for the number, that will definitely help the search narrow a bit at least. I was blindly searching not knowing the gpm I would need to consider.
And for the toyota adapter that sgltrk suggested, I have considered them, I've got a buddy who's repowering his old solid axle yota with a 2L. I honestly think I'm going to stick with the phoenix adapter though and run the cummins starter. They're fairly common on Massey ferguson mobile bailers and other various farm machinery. I think I'll do what I did in Wyoming when I lived out there on my own, carry an extra starter, alternator and drive belt in the cab with me.
As for the crank, it actually wound up being ok. The cam had taken a beating when the two tappets sheared and sent some shrapnel floating around in the block. I managed to find a replacement cam at a decent price on ebay, just had to swap the cam gear, got a new set of tappets, honed out the two cylinders from the stuck ones, put on a new oil pump because the old one had some scars on the gears, cleaned out the block and went back together.
Tried to start it and was getting 0 fuel from the pump, the engine had been sitting for so long with a low quality biofuel or additive in it that it had a hard set layer of crud plugging everything.
Filled the filter with B12, dropped the fuel lines in a gallon of carb cleaner and bumped the starter a few rounds every 10 minutes or so with the injectors pulled, after about an hour, I got fuel from the pump, hooked everything back up after flushing the carb cleaner out and gave it a try, she would stutter but never take. Sounded like it was only hitting on one or two cylinders, to make the rest of the story short, I pulled the injectors and am having them rebuilt, the folks rebuilding them made a point to call me and comment that they were full of varnished over crap as well. Said only two would pass a pop test.

Once I get those back I'll update progress. The project may sit a few months while I get concrete poured for my shop but I'll still be here.
And the decision has been made to use the 98 tj. The power wagon is just way too in-depth for me at the moment.

sgltrk

Thanks for the update db8.

I finally picked up my engine. Like yours it needs a rebuild but mine is still in pieces. When mine was blown it also took out the stock, Mitsubishi TD04L-10T turbo. When I bought the engine the previous owner threw in a Garrett TBO356 turbo off an '86 Saab 9000 2L, 16V engine. I don't know squat about turbos so I don't know if it is a good match for my plans or too big or too small. I have been trying to educate myself about how to select the correct size for my engine build but, every time I think I'm starting to get somewhere I read something else that just leaves me confused again. I'd like to get about 150 flywheel HP.

Do either of you have any suggestions?

db8

Off the top of my head I don't know what turbo will and won't work. I can ask some folks I know and get back with you on that one. As for the HP criteria you have, I believe that around 115-120 is as good as you're going to get with the factory injector pump and turbo. That's with an intercooler. Check tdiwyse's charts from when he had his 3.3 dynoed. He had everything close to maxed out before going modified, except for a large front mounted intercooler, he was running a top mounted cowl induction intercooler.
If you do find that the turbo won't fit, the guys I bought my cam from on ebay were parting out a bunch of other 3.3s and gave me a reasonable quote on a used one. I'll dig up a link to their stuff or pm you their number this afternoon when I get home.

sgltrk

I'd appreciate any info you can develop on whether the Garrett turbo will work or if they have a suggestion for a different turbo.

I'll be calling that parts number you gave us. I might be interested in a spare set of injectors and maybe some other stuff.

TDIwyse got 135 hp at the rear wheel. With the hp losses going through the trans, t-case and rear diff that translates to an easy 150 hp at the flywheel. He used an inter-cooler from a Subaru WRX and I plan to use a front mounted cooler. The big thing he did was to have the injectors extrude honed to increase flow by 15%. He used the stock IP but tweaked it for more fuel flow and also advanced the timing some.

He also ran a Phoenix Casting setup with two flywheels. The extra mass means the engine revs more slowly. I'm curious how that affects the HP rating, if at all, as HP is defined as work over time.