I'm impressed that you're using the AX15 behind the 3.9 engine. I know that's not a huge horsepower engine, but it has the potential for some good torque numbers.

I'm guessing that you're engine is stock?

 

I have a few friends who have done this swap in Wranglers using the AX15, NV3550, and NSG360 (whatever the Jeep 6 speed trans is) and all of us have had good luck with our transmissions & t-cases albeit we all have SYE conversions to our t-cases. We have broken several axles both front and rear. A lot has to do with how you drive them. One friend does a lot of rock crawling and litterally shoved his D44 rear locker out of the housing and through the cover. Still no harm was done to his AX15. In my book the AX15 is a good trans. Yes there are stronger trannies but it is not as weak as some people think if it is kept in good working condition and you drive it smart. Mine had well over 200k mi. on it before the engine swap.
My engine mods; pump is turned up, timing advanced, modded fuel delivery ports, 3200 gov spring, turbo is a HE341 from a 5.9 common rail, DonM injectors. So nothing really radical but it is more than stock.

 

Okay !! Just over 2 weeks and the third tank of fuel ........ I have consistently gotten 21.5 or more for fuel economy !!

I have tied my wife's 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee on the fuel economy and it has 3.73 gears and tiny tires. And, way better aerodynamics !!


BTW, I would not have thought the AX-15 would survive either. It is only rated to handle 300 ft.lbs. of tq and you were pushing that before any modifications to your 4bt !! I'm impressed !!

 

Any mileage numbers from you and your friends?

I rock climb with my jeep as well. Good to hear that the AX15 is still working great!

 

UPDATE :::
Got the gears changed to 3.73's today. My max speed went from 75 to 85+ (I let off at 85).

I also had my stock aluminum oil pan customized to better fit my engine bay and axle configuration since I had kissed the axle 3 or 4 times on driveway entry points.







There are more pics at my flickr acct.

Oh Yea !! BTW I brought the oil pan to the local welder after a "Jeep" shop in Baton Rouge area told me it would cost " at least $350 " to weld the aluminum oil pan. And the same "Jeep" shop quoted me $700 per axle for labor because I have ALL parts to regear the axles. I actually paid $45 for the custom Aluminum pan and less than $700 with tax for labor only at a local mechanic shop to regear both axles.

I have completed all my basic college courses and I will be driving my Jeep to Tulsa, Oklahoma on Jan 3 to do my clinical classes and I will be driving it back and forth to south Louisiana every other weekend.

 

Been a long time since I've posted . . . but it's been 6 yrs now since the maiden voyage. She's still running well and got a water/methanol injection system installed earlier in the spring. The engine responds really well to the water injection. No issues to report with the engine/drivetrain. They have been flawless. However, the old jeep body is getting rusty.

Happy dieseling everyone.

 

I'm running into the same issue with my diesel YJ... In the process of looking for an XJ to swap the diesel into.

In the next year or so, I'm going to attempt to start work on a TDI JK to replace the wrangler... I love having a wrangler, but the YJ life is horrible! hahaha! In upgrading wranglers, I thought why only go one step higher to a TJ, but why not get a JK while I'm upgrading.

So, for the time being, I'll have a Cummins powered XJ over the winter, and a TDI powered JK in the future...

 

I am still running the AX15/231 with much success. I have broken some other drivetrain parts though. I broke a full case D60 Detroit locker, front driveshaft twice, one 1310 u-joint, bent the front track bar, broken two rear shocks, and tore the TJ trans mount in half. The trans mount, shocks, and front track bar were from some very heavy footed hill climbs where I had some extreme bouncing going on after the shocks blew their seals.

 

I am new to this forum and love this thread. I have been reading for 3 days now and haven't got half way to the end yet.

I have a 2004 Lincoln Aviator and a qsb 3.3 sitting around. I am looking to get better mileage out of the Aviator and since the motor is here too; I thought why not. Can anyone tell me if this will be doable? I am mostly concerned with the electronics. Would I be able to get the stock transmission to shift right? I already called Phoenix and they said they can make the adapter. Will I run into any nightmares with the stock computer not seeing input from stock sensors, injectors and anything else it is looking for? I have seen where people are putting this in newer Rangers' so I believe it is possible; however, I can't find any good write-ups' on the build and what they did in lieu of the electronics. Any help and or advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Tdiwyse

Where you at?

 

I can give an update or give advice if anyone is trying to follow my route.

When choosing a flywheel. I got the right one but to save money I got one off of car-part.com and it had an unknown history behind it. Definitely get a brand new flywheel. O'Reilly auto parts has a Sachs brand and it only costs $155. I had to replace my clutch due to catastrophic failure at 13,000 miles. 11 of the 18 fingers on the pressure plate broke off. My swap has a hydraulic clutch that is adjusted by changing the length of the push rod. It could not be adjusted completely correct due to the amount of times the "used flywheel" had been turned before I got it. I am also going to install a flywheel shim (placed between the adapter flywheel from Pheonix Casting and my New flywheel). This will allow me to adjust the clutch push rod and allow easier shifting and less wear and tear.
BTW, I installed a Centerforce clutch (Part # CF-178066 cost $355) to replace the LUK clutch that broke. It is not a "dual friction" type. My engine does not spin enough RPM's to warrant the use of a dual friction clutch.

Good Luck and Happy Jeepin !!

For anyone considering how to make their swap work this link may help. I consider it the bible on bell housing and transmission swaps. Particularly the information on the Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD; which pictures can be found on page 9 post #134. http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/showthread.php?t=4740

 

Hulkgreen are you saying you bought a new or reman flywheel for a Cummins QSB 4.5L at O'Reilly's?? If so please post the exact part number they sold you. I have never heard of this before, and that is a great price. The dual friction has nothing to do with RPM's they are for high torque applications. The Centerforce pressure plate has little weights on the fingers and at higher RPM's centrifugal force forces them out applying more pressure to the clutch. Our diesel engines do not make enough RPM's for those weights to work very much if at all. Centerforce makes good clutches for gas engines and the RPM's they operate at, but are not usually used behind diesels. The LUK clutch you had is one of the better brand clutches, but I'd bet the improper adjustment caused the bearing to ride against the fingers constantly making them eventually break. I would advise against shimming the flywheel and instead make a new push rod to get your clutch adjusted properly.

 

The flywheel is NOT for the QSB 4.5L it is to bolt to my flywheel adapter from Pheonix Casting. The flywheel is for a 98 Dodge Dakota with 5.2L engine. Sachs brand part number NFW-7225. The Centerforce clutch pressure plate is actually made by LUK. This clutch is rated for up to 600 LB FT of torque, so my 460 should be OKAY. And you are correct it broke due to improper adjustment caused by flywheel.

The suggestion of the flywheel spacer came from South Bend Clutch. So, I went with it. They recommend it with all Cummins diesel clutches they sell.

I have a "current events" project due tomorrow for Macroeconomics class, so I brought everything to the Dodge dealer transmission specialist buddy that I trust. He is changing the flywheel, adding the spacer, changing my Dana 300 over to my new trans and putting the correct length clutch push rod. (I decided to buy a rebuilt trans with a warranty due to all the slop in the shifter assembly.) All for $375 and I get to do my homework and pick it up tomorrow. Hoot Hoot !! It will be nice to drive and not fight with gears. A win-win deal for me.

 

Anyone know what happened to tdiwyse? He builds something amazing then drops off the earth?
I have so much to ask him

 

Hi Guys,
Been a while.
Finally got a lift 4.5" on my rig with 33s'.. I have had no isses unless caused by me. Still driving 100+ miles a day. I can safely say that this vehicle has paid for itself in the 5 years I have been running it.. mostly form the thousands of gallons of BIO I have pumped through this thing.
Happy Jeepn All
MT