Thanks I will try Google !!

Interesting ; the bellhousing and flywheel for the 4.5L are ALL standard 3/8 x 16 !!
I also (with great thanks to you ) used the ARP 230-7303 and it came with 6 of the 12 point bolts, which was how many the flywheel called for !! How many bolts came in your package from ARP ( sounds like either you got robbed or I get extremely lucky ) ?? I found them at Northern Tool for $17.95 !!

EDIT:::::

I googled the torque value and for the 3/8 x 16 bolts call for 47 lb. ft. ( for grade 8 ) !! But, it also called for 86 lb. ft. ( grade 8- 7/16 x 20 ) to install the Dodge flywheel onto the Pheonix Casting flywheel adapter. That much torque into the aluminum P.C. piece kinda scares me ( don't want to strip out the aluminum ) !!

 

Just found this !!

It is an unusually interesting bit of history ; especially when it mentions Pheonix Castings and converting Industrial Engines over for Automotive use !!!

ENJOY !! ....... http://www.allpar.com/mopar/mitsubishi-diesel.html

 

The QSB3.3T is manufactured in Japan - hence, the metric fasteners. The ARP bolts are sold in a 6 pack as flywheel bolts or a 3 pack with nuts as TH350 torque converter bolts. The vendor was out of the 6 packs, so he sent two 3 packs for the same price as a 6 pack. - $23 shipped.
.

 

I understand , that makes sense !! Thanks for the info !!

BTW , did you use a lower torque value since you were torqueing into aluminum ???

 

Keep in mind that a torque wrench basically measures resistance to rotation. That is the reason for reduced torques specs for lubricated fasteners. The objective in torqueing a fastener is controlled bolt stretch. Stretching the bolt creates clamping force and tension against the threads. The tension is the force that prevents the bolt from loosening. Over-tightening a fastener may exceed the fasteners elasticity limit. At this point, it has reached "plasticity".

Thread engagement in aluminum should be minimum 2 bolt diameters. The 7/16" x 1.25" bolts will give approximately 2 diameters of thread engagement. If memory serves me correctly, I torqued the flywheel bolts to the low end of the torque range for the 7/16x20 grade 8 bolts - 78 lbs/ft. In addition, I torqued in stages so I could "feel" for thread deformation. I sort of "sneeked up" on 78 lbs/ft. If in doubt, call Phoenix Castings for confirmation.

.

 

Great info !!

Thank you very much !!

 

Just got this email from Jim and Bill @ Pheonix Casting .... pertaining to the assembly TORQUE of their adapters !!! Apparently our adapter sets were supposed to come with this instruction sheet !!

This adapter consists of two cast parts that have been machined to the factory specifications for the transmission you are installing. This short instruction sheet should help you in your assembly of this product.

First, take the SAE adapter ring and install it on the back of your engine SAE housing. Be sure the top is at the 12:00 position. Use allen cap screws to attach it to the back of the housing, these should be 3/8 x 1.25 and torque to 44 foot pounds.

( I SKIPPED THE AUTO TRANS INSTRUCTIONS )

For Manual Transmission
Install the flywheel adapter to the flywheel on the engine and torque the bolts to 32 foot lbs.(Grade 8= 44) Now bolt on the flywheel for the transmission you are going to use and torque those to 50 foot lbs.(Grade 8= 70) Then install your clutch, and finally install the transmission to the back of the housing adapter and bolt up !!




EDIT :::::
I got the adapters on and the clutch together and the transmission bolted together today and sent the front Dana 44 diff to a buddies to be rebuilt and have the 4.10 gears installed !!
I also updated my flicker account if any one wants to see the progress http://www.flickr.com/photos/42246689@N06/ !! It is finally coming along nicely !!
I also got an email from a Cummins engineer who believes he has found the proper wiring pigtail ( or harness ) for the motor and was able to get me a copy of the engines Wiring Diagram !! 95z28a4 if you would like I can PM you the engineers email address or phone #, I am sure he could locate your harness/ pigtail if you don't already have one !!

 

TDIwyse,

you may be interested in checking out this site , since you have a Liberty 2.8L Diesel !! I heard about it on another Jeep forum !!!

http://www.greendieselengineering.co...do?method=home

 

Thanks. I've been through their Eco and HOT tunes and just installed their turbo kit a couple weeks ago. Also got the higher rated "european" torque converter in there. She runs real good now. The GDE stuff is really well engineered.

 

Well , I thought it was gonna help you , but it seems you are again way ahead of me !!

I have to check with them to see if they can help me with the wiring harness for the QSB 4.5 , since they have made at least one harness to install the 2.8L VM motor into a JK , it is a long shot but one worth asking about !!

 

UPDATE ::::::

I got my FRONT Dana 44 ( out of a '89 Jeep Grand Waggoneer ) back last nite !! I sent it to a buddies to be completely rebuilt/overhauled and have the NEW 4.10 gearset installed !!

I am pretty stoked, since my Jeep has been sitting on Jack Stands without the front clip on it for over 2 weeks ; at least it will roll around now !

 

Well like many others I have been eyeballing this thread with no input but figure I will ask a few questions. I am probalby going to convert an early 90's Nissan pathfinder. Its smaller than todays SUV's but I was suprised it still weighs around 3800 LBS (I found the 3800 LBS number online and didn't believe it but my door jam says GVWR is 4960 so 1160 LBS for passangers and cargo seems reasonable). I am looking for pretty good economy but functional at the same time. I found cummins was using the 2.8L and was like this is my ticket but then after several phone calls and hours wasted its NOT comming to North America (what a shame). This left me with the 3.3T to work with, and I hope this can fit.

My goals for this is to be close to 40 MPG and still maintain HWY speeds and be able to get onto the freeway if traffic that is moving at 80 MPH (if underpowered it will make this a real challange, some of the onramps I use have no merge lane or its under 500ft). I will normally be driving about 75 MPH but for economy I travel around 65-68 MPH in my Dodge with the 5.9.

I will convert this truck to a 2wd, I have only put it in 4wd once in 6 years and it didnt' even work then. To get rid off all the extra weight and rotating mass will help me with my goal anyway. Most of the frame will be custom and this will allow me to actually make a lower profile vehicle at the same time, again hope this can help economy. I will probalby look very closely at 3.3sonoma's setup, I will probalby use something very similar. I like the fact his setup was shorter and had less rotating mass to move. Most conversions seem to be on jeeps or 4X4 vehicles and his of course is 2wd. One of my main concerns is how tall this motor is, I only have 28" to work with pretty much. I would prefere the engine/oil pan would not stick below the frame to be a target for road kill. Not sure if a dry sump kit would help or if the transmission adaptor (mounting ring?) would still hang below the frame.
Due to the fact I can move stuff when building it I can adjust the motor height so I use from the bottom of the cowl hood to the bottom of the frame which is my majic 28 inches (this was taken about 5 inches behind the core support, basically where I expect the hood should be at the lowest point). This brings up my next question, I can beat the firewall some but does anyone have a measurement from the firewall to the top front of the valve cover, how many inches is this? This could adjust my 28 inches number very significatly.

I looked for a few QSB 3.3 engines and I have not found any. I was told by cummins that until they past Teir 4 emissions that they can not sell anymore, unless they had some of the older Teir 2/3 engines already in stock. Does anyone know where I can get one or do I have to wait. I don't plan to upgrade the HP alot but if I start at the highest point that is less I have to adjust later to create HP. My goal would be like 170-200 HP and over 350 LBS. I think traffic would be easy with that kind of power. I would also be able to tow a boat or my lawn mower and it wouldn't struggle (I would not plan on towing more than the 3800 LBS that I weight, I found this out the hard way along time ago).

I am going to say I don't mind spending the money on a QSB motor to gain extra HP Vs the B3.3T (as I remember think the B3.3 is mechanical, good but just not quite the QSB power). I would also plan to mate this with a known good transmisson adaptor plate combination (looks like the NV3500 from a chevy, 3.3sonoma's set up, unless I read the post wrong). I am assuming that the NV3500 was the stock manual transmission in 3.3sonoma's setup, what other cars/trucks used this exact transmission so I might find it on car-part.com. If there is a different route I should take to achieve what I want please let me know but at this point believe this is where I should start.


Well it will take me some time before I even start to begin this but when its done will share my information like others before me have, so to them I say a big thank you.

 

The NV3500 was found in 88 and newer 1/2 ton gm trucks and 90 and newer s10 with the 4.3 v6.
there is quite a bit of room to modify the oil pan for clearance on these engines. The only issue is the stock oil pickup tube can only be switched forward or back a few inches in the pan. My oil pan now only holds 6.5 quarts which I know is less than stock.
If you need more hood clearance move the fuel filter down to the frame rail, flip the exhaust manifold and re-clock the
turbo to make it a low mount setup. You will have to make oil lines for the turbo to do this. It would then be easy to run a front mount intercooler for your air piping.
This would gain you 3 or 4 inches in height. I was planning on doing all this but mine fit with just oil pan modifications.
As far as fuel mileage crank up the timing but only turn the fuel up a minimal amount. This is how I have seen the best mileage.
I normally cruise in the mid 70mph range with no issue.
The truck accelerates better once you get through a couple of gears and get the truck under load(gets the boost up).
Filled up this morning and got 39.1mpg engine now has 57,000 miles

 

Hey guys, sorry for the hi-jack , but I'm looking for con rods for the b3.3 and there are alot of people reading this thread who may be able to help me out.
I think the reason I'm in this situation is because the po clearanced the oil pan and mine is painted on the inside and the paint chipped off and went thru the engine.

 

Hey scoobysmak ,

With the B3.3 or QSB 3.3 I don't think your power goals are attainable !! You mention wanting 170 to 200 HP and over 350 lb ft torque !! The torque may be possible !!

A program/ ECM "exists" to make my QSB 4.5L in the 170 HP range with 470 lb ft TQ ..... but to me that is really overkill !!! My stock HP + TQ numbers are 100-110HP and 360 TQ !!

I am wondering if my AX-15 won't need to be " upgraded " to a NV4500 with the 360 TQ numbers my engine is putting out stock !!! It is only rated to like 300 TQ !!