Oops, it's www.krieseldiesel.com

The college had a few systems, probably been updated by now though. I mainly worked with an emissions dyno similar to what the EPA uses, a little older in design, but still does the job. Mostly all I did in college was 4 years of dyno testing haha! If you know exactly what type of fuel is being used (chemically, the school gets lab certified stuff), and if you measure what comes out of the engine, you know what is consumed.

Your numbers should increase slightly if you turn up the fuel, or be relatively the same. What happens is, you are using more fuel, but at the same time creating more power. But the two are not linear, so your fuel consumption should increase faster than the power, with the same adjustments. EGTs are probably your most accurate way of looking at it on your vehicle. So, if you increase the screw, it will increase both fuel consumption and power, and you should see an increase in EGTs. To what extent the EGTs will increase I wouldn't know.

At a certain point, you will probably reach the limit on the injectors, so no matter how far you turn the screw on the injection pump, the injectors only flow so much. I think you won't see a decrease in power when you've hit this point, but you will increase the screw and not see an increase in power, due to the limitations after the injection pump.

Keep in mind other things are still factored in way beyond this... Injection pump wear, pump timing (i've had some B3.3 pumps with bad timing do some weird stuff, usually tons of white smoke aka excess fuel), the injector size (again), the size of the pump/pump rotor, pressure and such, etc. etc.

 

Just an update on my engine, here is a video with the engine on the garage floor. Next up for this is do work on the turbocharger...

click me --> Cummins A2300 <-- click me

I know it's not a b3.3, but its cummins, and the install is generally the same as everyone else on this thread basically.

 

Thought you guys would enjoy seeing another build... I bought the engine used, fully rebuilt it, and finally fired last night. Still have some tweaking to do (way too much fuel).

TDI-Wyse, how many turns out did you end up on your IP pressure settings? And is that from hard stop or from factory, which I have no clue what it is.

Enjoy:

 

red_smoke

Nice job, looks great. Liked how you moved the fuel filter. What kind of power steering pump did you use? Do you have a build thread somewhere? Keep up the good work.

 

Thanks!

The power steering pump is a standard Saginaw P-pump style used on lots of cars/brands in the 70's and 80's. It was just easy to adapt because of the v-belt configuration in conjunction with the double groove crank pulley. I don't have a build thread yet, but eventually I'll post it up. Gotta get her rolling first!

 

Red Smoke, I'll be interested to see what happens with the TJ. I notice you still have the factory computer hooked up. Are you planning to keep it? You've got a similar Turbo build up to what I would do to keep the profile low and fit without cutting the hood.

Let us know when you get a build thread up.

Anyone have a clue what separates an industrial/agricultural diesel engine from an automotive diesel?

 

Yes, my intent is to use the factory ECM to drive the instrument cluster, but it may be a futile effort, especially with my wiring skills. I'll keep you updated on this.

As far as the turbo configuration, Cummins offers a low mount turbo option but I didn't want to spend the $$ to buy all the required components so I made my own. It involves flipping the stock manifold, and changing the orientation of the turbine housing, bearing housing and compressor housings, and then running custom drain and feed lines. Overall, not that difficult as long as you aren't afraid of opening up turbochargers. BTW this is not the stock turbo for this engine, but actually a custom one I built which should make 20-25psi with proper fueling. That's why the compressor housing uses marmon joints.

On the ag vs automotive engines, they're obviously certified to different emissions levels, but the most noticeable difference is the governor load curves. Some governor curves won't be very friendly to automotive type driving as they're meant to run at PTO or rated speeds (automotive are meant to control engine speed while AG is designed to control torque). Just my understanding of it...

 

That is pretty. Looking forward to hearing updates from you.

As far as the fuel screw, I don't recall how many turns i did. But I can tell you I went to the point where the rpm's at idle started to increase and the rpm's would "hang" for a sec after blurping the fuel pedal. Then I turned the screw back about 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

 

RedSmoke,

You make my project look like child's play...... nice!

 

Thanks for the props guys. It's nice to get approvals from the "pioneers!"

Anybody try adapting a larger alternator? I think the mounting system is pretty standard for automotive alternators. I'm worried that the little 60amp is going to struggle with the electric vacuum pump, and worse yet, winch.

 

I have a used Rajay model turbo that I've taken apart, so opening it up isn't a concern. Figuring out how it's supposed to work based on what I observe is.

Thanks for the information on ag vs auto configuration. I'm of the opinion that many ag or industrial engines could be converted with some simple mods. Might make an interesting senior project.

 

ok, maybe a dumb question. with the adapters on, what is the distance from the face of the flywheel adapter to the face of the housing adapter? (using chrysler trans)

 

Which Chrysler trans are you using? If it's an AX15/NV3550/NSG370 it will be different than an AX5/Peugot trans. I don't have an actual measurement of mine (NSG370) - we just CMM'd the back side of the block and then had a prototyping shop make the aluminum adapter and flywheel adapter such that it mimics the rear face of block on a 4.0L engine.

 

AX15. I haven't tried mating them up yet, still waiting on my flywheel and clutch. And I can't find (online anywhere) any measurement on what it should be. There should be a standard measure I would think, so that as long as I have that distance, the tranny and clutch would bolt right up no prob.

Just thought I'd try to make it easy, but will probably end up bolting it all together a few times on and off haha

 

If you measure the front face of trans (FFOT) to the release bearing surface, that will give you an approximate measurement which you add to the stackup between the clutch finger height (installed over disc on flywheel) and the flwwheel surface which mates to the crank palm. Kind of a long way around the block, but it would give you a starting point if you're thinking of making your own adapters.