3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

How hard is it to install new injectors yourself?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Sep 8, 2015 | 02:05 AM
  #1  
Jbremount's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
How hard is it to install new injectors yourself?

The title pretty much sums it up! How hard is it to install new injectors in my truck? Do most of you guys do this yourself? I know it needs new injectors as the truck is hard to start in the winter and last week would not start until it was given a shot of starter fluid. Are most of you guys recommending doing this yourself or letting the shop do this?
Reply
Old Sep 8, 2015 | 06:57 AM
  #2  
madhat's Avatar
Administrator/Jarhead
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 14,965
Likes: 19
From: Jacksonville, NC
I did it myself with no issues. I wish I would have had an injector line wrench and an injector remover tool, but other than that, it wasn't that bad. Just depends on your level of mechanical ability, as long as you know how to use feeler gauges and a torque wrench, you're good. You'll need some crow's feet to torque the injector lines back up with a torque wrench, tho.

There are plenty of youtube videos on how to remove/replace injectors on our truck. Biggest thing is make sure everything is super clean and that you have the correct torque values for everything.
Reply
Old Sep 8, 2015 | 02:47 PM
  #3  
truckbouy2's Avatar
Registered User
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Frozen Northern Minnesota, Darn Close To Where Perma-Frost Begins...
"You'll need some crow's feet to torque the injector lines back up with a torque wrench, tho."
Remember the rooster comb...
I gotcha' again Boss.
I know, "on the deck and gimme 50...."
How hard is it to install new injectors yourself?-crow-foot.jpg
Reply
Old Sep 8, 2015 | 06:43 PM
  #4  
Jbremount's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by madhat
I did it myself with no issues. I wish I would have had an injector line wrench and an injector remover tool, but other than that, it wasn't that bad. Just depends on your level of mechanical ability, as long as you know how to use feeler gauges and a torque wrench, you're good. You'll need some crow's feet to torque the injector lines back up with a torque wrench, tho.

There are plenty of youtube videos on how to remove/replace injectors on our truck. Biggest thing is make sure everything is super clean and that you have the correct torque values for everything.

What is an injector line wrench? And injector remover tool? Where can I buy these? Oh, does anyone know what size the crows foot is?
Reply
Old Sep 8, 2015 | 07:43 PM
  #5  
madhat's Avatar
Administrator/Jarhead
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 14,965
Likes: 19
From: Jacksonville, NC
They're specialty tools made specifically for the cummins... I don't know the size of the wrench, but they usually come in sets.

What's your mechanical abilities? It's not like changing spark plugs...
Reply
Old Sep 9, 2015 | 08:55 AM
  #6  
carl48's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,646
Likes: 4
From: ruidoso new mexico
let the tailgate down and place cardboard on it, as you remove each piece place them in a pile for each cylinder. the bridge has a dot on one side, try to put it back on the same direction, if you do the two above things the valve lash will not get out of adjustment but while you are there set all at 0.010 and 0.020. for the tube removal tool use a test cap by miller special tools #9011, the fuel injector removal tool is #9010. the tube nut is 24mm the line is 19mm, there is a engine lifting bracket behind #6, remove it and see how far you can throw it. watch the video, it is very easy.
Reply
Old Sep 9, 2015 | 09:33 PM
  #7  
Jbremount's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by carl48
let the tailgate down and place cardboard on it, as you remove each piece place them in a pile for each cylinder. the bridge has a dot on one side, try to put it back on the same direction, if you do the two above things the valve lash will not get out of adjustment but while you are there set all at 0.010 and 0.020. for the tube removal tool use a test cap by miller special tools #9011, the fuel injector removal tool is #9010. the tube nut is 24mm the line is 19mm, there is a engine lifting bracket behind #6, remove it and see how far you can throw it. watch the video, it is very easy.

I am probably not going to have the injector removal tool #9010. Any good suggestions/secrets on injector removal without this tools?
Reply
Old Sep 9, 2015 | 11:31 PM
  #8  
cLAYH's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,021
Likes: 7
From: Cochrane Alberta
I did mine with just regular hand tools. I think to get the injectors out I was able to pry under the hold down block and they popped out.
Reply
Old Sep 10, 2015 | 06:12 AM
  #9  
Jbremount's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by carl48
let the tailgate down and place cardboard on it, as you remove each piece place them in a pile for each cylinder. the bridge has a dot on one side, try to put it back on the same direction, if you do the two above things the valve lash will not get out of adjustment but while you are there set all at 0.010 and 0.020. for the tube removal tool use a test cap by miller special tools #9011, the fuel injector removal tool is #9010. the tube nut is 24mm the line is 19mm, there is a engine lifting bracket behind #6, remove it and see how far you can throw it. watch the video, it is very easy.

Before one starts removing things, is it best to have the engine at top dead center or something? Thinking about the valves positions, what would be best.
Reply
Old Sep 10, 2015 | 09:25 AM
  #10  
carl48's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,646
Likes: 4
From: ruidoso new mexico
you do not need the 9010, the injectors come out very easy with pliers. it makes no difference where the engine rotation is, you are not going to do anything that lowers the valves and you only have to remove one of the bridges. if you decide to check and set lash go to genosgarage.com and get engine barring tool #tool-ltbt for $34.95 get the feeler with the 45* tip and turn the engine to where the timing mark is up and mark the bottom of the ballancer with chalk, this way when you are under the truck barring it 360* you do not have to get up to see where you are. i think the torque on the tube nut is 37ftlbs a few years ago we increased it to 42ftlbs to reduce some leakage problems
Reply
Old Sep 10, 2015 | 01:36 PM
  #11  
CRF450R RIDER's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 218
Likes: 2
it is easy to do IMO. just take your time and make sure you keep everything clean. you dont want crap getting in your injectors or feeder tubes.
Reply
Old Sep 13, 2015 | 10:49 PM
  #12  
Jbremount's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Thanks guys, I just finished up this morning. The trucks is running better than ever. I didn't want to spend this kind of money and go with the Bosch stock injectors. I went withe the BMS injectors. The +50HP Bosch Motor Sport injectors do make a difference in the power. I installed and tighten everything down to specs and so far no leaks! I'am still checking for leaks every couple hours! Anyway, a special thanks to all the guys who shared their knowledge and helped me on this project!
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
lucey
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
15
Jan 18, 2005 05:30 PM
SoCal-305
3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only)
10
Sep 4, 2004 04:25 PM
patriot pearl blue
Other
3
Nov 8, 2003 06:42 PM
RHC
3rd Generation Ram - Non Drivetrain - All Years
12
Mar 25, 2003 06:03 PM
PADZZ
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
3
Oct 8, 2002 10:36 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:33 AM.