I was wondering if the lift pump can be changed by oneself or is it more of a dealer job. Special tools and such ? Preparing for the future, he he !

 

No problem. Its an easy job if you remove the fuel filter housing first. The first time you do it take about 2 hours, second time is an hour, and the 3rd time is 45 mins. But it is not a race so take your time and make sure you get everything back in place. Be careful of the wired conncetions so you don't bruise or break them. Take your time and don't loose any of the compression washer for the bango bolts.

Get a FP gauge as soon as possible so you know what the LP is doing. Keep your tank 1/2 full also.

 

What gives with the lift pumps? My father has had 2 dodges with the Cummins the first was a 95 and now he has a 01. He purchased both of them new and only had one problem out of the 95. He had to put ball joints in it (covered by warranty). Change oil and filter and it was all good. He works the heck out of his trucks on the farm.

 

Put a FP guage on them and see if the LP is still working.

 

What does keeping the tank 1/2 full do with anything. I always run mine to the empty mark. Unless of course you have the pump in the tank, which is only on 05 or newer.

 

Geico266 you got me on that one. I have never been around for a fuel filter change and the possible colorful language that can go with it. They could both be shot and i just don’t know about it. This may be a stupid question but what is the negative effect of the lift pump being out? I know that when i changed my fuel filter last week i didn’t have to prime my injection pump by turning the engine over and over i think the lift pump did it for me.

You know the drill replace the o-ring drop the filter in let it soak up the fuel for a few minutes turn the truck over and leave the key on when it dies when the pump stops running your set….start the truck and game over.

By the way i found that procedure on this message board but i don’t remember who did the post but it was good info.

 

Part of the problem is these lift pumps were not meant to pull, they were meant to push. That is why the 05's have intank LP pumps. Keeping the tank 1/2 (or more) full does three things, 1. More fuel means less air in the tank = less condensation (water) in the fuel. 2. The higher the fuel level the less work (pull) the LP does., 3. The higher the fuel level the less air bubbles are sucked up by the LP from the fuel sloshing around in the tank. Air in the fuel is a suspected leading cause (cavitation) of LP failure.

 

Not dumb at all. The LP pumps excess fuel to the IP (injection pump), The excess fuel is used to cool and lubricate the IP, then it is returned to the tank. This is why fuel pressure (FP) monitoring is critical to maintaining these engines. No CTD should be without a FP gauge.

Your LP is pumping if you were able to purge your filter housing of air after the filter change. But don't get all warm and fuzzy! It may be weak and not pumping the required amount. FP should be around 13-15PSI at idle, 8-10 wide open throttle (under load).

Use the search button and you will have hours of reading on these subjects. Anything you can't find just ask.

Just look out for Hoss & BigBlue!

 

#4 The injection pump is cooled by the fuel running through it, and back to the tank by the return line. The more fuel you have in the tank, the better it can cool the injection pump because the fuel DOES absorb the heat as it passes through the Injection pump.

The fuel in a low tank can get a lot warmer than you probably think

 

We need that much pressure on unbombed 3rd gens? I never see more than 9psi and no lower than 4psi on my OEM LP. It has always been this way since day one...

 

Ok so is there a max psi for the IP to handle? What a abouta an EFI pump lie 40 or so psi, too much?? since all the xtra would be returned, just need to make sure the retrun is big enough to keep fuel pressure controllable along with a reg.

 

The pop off valve for the CP3 is supposed to open at around 20 psi. However, anything over 17 could open it. There have been some defective ones out there.

I am currently testing a pump that is designed to work at anything from 1-60 psi. I dialed it in to 17 at idle, I pull it down to 10 at WOT with the EZ and VA on kill. It recovers faster then any other pump I have used and at cruise down the highway it holds 15-16 psi.

I was told this pump will draw 4 amps max and the distance we have from the frame mount to the filter housing is well within its limitations as a pusher/puller pump.

I need to log more miles to confirm longevity but so far with 1000 Kilometers and FREEZING cold weather, it works quieter and stronger then the Holley Blue.

I'm not saying to ditch the Holley as its a great pump but I am trying something different to see if theres something else out there for the higher HP trucks. 160 GPH is nice too.

Scotty

 

"Part of the problem is these lift pumps were not meant to pull, they were meant to push. That is why the 05's have in tank LP pumps. Keeping the tank 1/2 (or more) full does three things, 1. More fuel means less air in the tank = less condensation (water) in the fuel. 2. The higher the fuel level the less work (pull) the LP does., 3. The higher the fuel level the less air bubbles are sucked up by the LP from the fuel sloshing around in the tank. Air in the fuel is a suspected leading cause (cavitation) of LP failure" Geico266

I have followed several of these threads and I would like to know if this system needs an auxiliary pump like my old race car did from the tank to the main pump.

Would an auxiliary Holley fuel pump pushing from the fuel tank relieve the stress and strain of the lonely weak stock pump? If this is a good idea I may invest in one for reliability purposes. I bought this truck for that reason, I needed a truck with the Cummins capability and reliability. I don't drive it much, but when I do, I want to get there and back without worrying about breaking down. Thanks Jim

 

Short answer is yes it would help, but IMHO it would be more reliable to replace the stock LP with the FASS HPFP. 4 year warranty.

 

"Short answer is yes it would help, but IMHO it would be more reliable to replace the stock LP with the FASS HPFP. 4 year warranty. "

What is it's name, what is the cost of this pump and where is it available at? j