Bad Ramer Jamer

Look's like that's where my oil leak is. Has anyone pulled one of these housing's. According to the manual, you have to pull the cam, valve's, a/c, and all sort's of thing's. I just think that's beyond my scope of experteece.

Any tip's where I wouldn't have to pull the cam and valve's. Or is there just no way around it. Thank's.

pind

Basically, there is no way around pulling the cam, thanks to that wonderful pressed on Cam gear. That being said, there are easy ways to pull the cam, but you want to be sure that its what you want to be doing in the driveway, or home garage.

PaulDaisy

I have been intimidate by major tasks in the past. Until I realized that mechanics have the same two hands and one head as myself. It is just the matter of time you invest into the repair, nothing else. If you have to get it back on the road fast - shop it is. If you can afford to keep her in the garage for a week, two - you will learn more than you ever thought possible and will never be intimidated by the scope of the task again. To me the choice is clear
-P

vzdude

removing the cam is a little tricky due to the lifters being able to fall into the block. Cutting some dowel rods I think about 12 inches and cut a notch into the bottom of it. Wedge them into the lifters and use a rubber band to hold pairs of them together. This will keep the lifters up! Everything else is just nuts and bolts!

Need95-00CTD

I got the same problem...and it's really starting to get under my skin. I think for the time being I'm just gonna throw some epoxy at the crack, hope it holds, and replace the case when I have the time and the money, and the weather is warmer. I'm not fond of busting knuckles at all, but it seems 10x worse when your hands are cold.

infidel

Cummins doesn't pull the cam when replacing the case, they use a special puller to pull the gear off the cam. The gear is then heated when it's time to put it back on.
Much simpler procedure but I've heard a few people say the gear fit isn't as good once it's been pulled off and may be prone to slippage. They haven't offered any examples though, just theory.

CSAGrey1

It's a big project. Good luck
Hope it's not completely busted or that the KDP hasn't done any serious gear damage.

XLR8R

I'd make lemonade out of lemon juice and install a Helix cam when you fix the leak!

pind

The pressed gear will not slip once installed. Proper installation technique is to heat the gear in an oven, to a temp of 400 degrees, then you put the gear on the end of the cam. I think the factory spec was .008" clearance for float, which is established by placing either a couple of feeler gauges, or a horseshoe of .008" shim material between the gear and the cam retainer plate or cam shoulder.

When the gear cools down, it will grip the cam tighter than I grip my wallet, and that is pretty extreme.

This all being said, 1/2" dowel material, approximately 12" long, cut a slot in one end with a hacksaw, push dowel into the lifter, then pull up, each lifter requires one dowel, then, tie the dowels together at the top ends, with elastic bands, this will prevent the lifters from falling back into their bores.

Remove the camshaft, carefully as always, then remove your gear housing, replace the gasket, and reassemble. Making sure the engine is at tdc1 before starting this whole gong show helps.

When finished installing the cam, simply remove your elastic bands, and give a sharp pull upward on the dowel, this will pull the dowel out of the lifter, allowing the lifter to drop back into its bore. Drop your push tubes back in, and, if you kept the tubes in the right order, you won't have to adjust the valve lash. Otherwise, a lash adjustment is in order, just to ensure smooth operation.

It isn't really a tough job, just time consuming as all heck. If you can lay your accessories off to the sides without disconnecting anything, it makes things a whole lot easier.

Good luck with it.

PourinDiesel

Well I would first pull the damper and see if your front crank seal is leaking. Next step I would then pull the gear cover and see if there was a place in the silicone gasket that was leaking.
I would really try to isolate the leak before you decide that the gear cases pink paper like gasket is leaking.

Just some ideas.....

Bad Ramer Jamer

Thank's for all the replies.

PourinDiesel,, I did all that all ready. I ended up use a crank repair sleeve, but that wasn't the problem.

See my other thread.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=141692