So after further investigation i found my dowel pin went missing and cracked my housing case pretty good. The previous owner was a POS and put some jeb weld on it like a putz and never replaced the pin either. Well i got the new housing and all the parts. My question is this. Can i do the cummins procedure of pulling the camshft gear carefully and oven heating it to temp and putting back on carefully, or is it better to tear down the whole frigging thing and do the dowel method and remove the front of the truck. To me the cummins method of pulling the gear carefully seems ALOT easier. Please give me some input on which methods some of you have done. I feel pretty comfortable pulling the gear. What do you all think>>? Thanks alot in advance guys....

 

Tell you what, Infidel says pull the gear, Cummins pulls the gear, should I ever need to take the case if, I am gonna pull the gear.

When those 2 speak, I listen.

 

The gear pulling method is much easier but it is essential you have a good gear puller. The type I use is a three jaw that has a "cage" that screws down down around the jaws to keep them from popping out.
You also need a swivel on the pusher bolt so the end of the shaft doesn't get messed up.
The gear is on tight, I've had a couple sound like a shot gun when they popped off.
Full instructions are on the bottom here> http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...tructions.html

 

Should i heat the gear up with a torch before i try and pull the gear and if so how hot should i get it??? Do i need to remove the cam retainer? Im not sure what you mean by a swivel on the end of the pusher bolt>? Any other tips is much appreciated or what i need to be careful of????

 

My puller terminology is nonexistent.
What I mean is the puller bolt you torque down on can't spin on the camshaft, it must have a pad inbetween the bolt and cam that doesn't spin or it can mushroom the end of the cam making it even harder to pull.
The pad/swivel is similar to the ones you see on most C-clamps.
Not all pullers come with a swivel or they get lost.
I've used a nut for a swivel in a pinch but often they will start spinning when the torque gets way up there.

 

gotcha on the pad/swivel...mine has that on the end. How about heating it up..should i do that with a torch before slapping the puller on it? or will flash heating it with a torch risk breaking the gear and or warping it?

 

Heat would definitely help but I wouldn't get carried away with it.
I wouldn't use oxy/acetylene but rather propane or Map gas for fear of overheating the gear in one spot.
Before you get too far make sure your puller jaws fit under the gear center well. Some are too thick and grinding them to fit can really weaken them.

 

got the cam gear off. i pulled the injection pump gear and i noticed the shaft has a keyway,, but no key in it..also there isnt a slot for a key on the inside of the gear....is this right? I remember on my 24v the injection pump shaft had a key in it and the gear had the slot in it to slide in and set in place. i think i have lost my mind

 

No key for the IP.
Gear position on the shaft is how timing is adjusted.
You'll probably need this when you put things back together> http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...ack-stock.html

 

ahhh shoot, i hate messing with the timing. I wonder if the timing slipped? No real way to tell if it did or not unless i take the plug out and look i guess. You think just pulling the gear would put it out of whack?

 

Unless you were being very careful just untightening the nut will turn the pump a little out of TDC assuming it was when you started taking things apart.
The method I linked to is easy. No dial indicator or removing the DV.
If you put everything back together just like it was without turning any shafts you might luck out and be very close to stock timing.

 

Ok guys got the truck all back running good. The only question is why do i now have white blowby steam coming out the breather tube. I dont remember having any before this procedure. The only possible thing i can think of would be the valve adjustments i did might be wrong??? Could that possibly be causing my blowby>???

 

It's burning off moisture from condensation that got in the engine while it was open. The UP must have been plenty humid in the last week.
Take it for long hard drive and my bet is it will go away.

 

Ive got about 40 miles on it since putting it all back together and she is still steaming. CHanged the oil and whatnot. Yesterday it was coming out the BB tube underneath the motor, today when i checked the oil filler tube it was coming out of there filler tube and not really out the BB tube underneath. I dont get it at all.

 

Most diesel engine oil has a wax like additive to hold other additives in suspension.
This burns off in the first 100 miles or so and smokes giving the characteristic oil leak smell many of know so well.

I think you're worrying too much, give it some time but there was a guy who contacted me after replacing his case with the cam gear pulling method.
His mistake was not having his helper hold the cam though the lift pump hole good enough while pushing the gear back on.
What happened is the cam got pushed back and partially pushed back the rear cam bushing.
This allowed the cam gear to rub on the back of the timing case.
Please don't worry about this, the repair is involved.