1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

What did you do to your Gen 1 today?

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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 10:41 AM
  #661  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Still raining.
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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 11:27 AM
  #662  
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From: Montucky
STILL trying to resolve a rear driveline 1-2 shudder New front of three pc. driveline u-joint (others are only a year old) yesterday didn't help, so the list now includes, new tranny, carrier bearing, correct driveline angle verification, new LSD clutch pak, fresh fluids, etc. It's not excessive, but it was only a yr and half ago that it didn't do it at all, and nothing was broken/changed/modified except adding mileage. If I drop the rear shaft and only accelerate with front shaft (in 4x4) there is no shudder, so it appears the tranny and transfer case are not the culprits
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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 01:42 PM
  #663  
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From: BC
Originally Posted by diesel402004
STILL trying to resolve a rear driveline 1-2 shudder New front of three pc. driveline u-joint (others are only a year old) yesterday didn't help, so the list now includes, new tranny, carrier bearing, correct driveline angle verification, new LSD clutch pak, fresh fluids, etc. It's not excessive, but it was only a yr and half ago that it didn't do it at all, and nothing was broken/changed/modified except adding mileage. If I drop the rear shaft and only accelerate with front shaft (in 4x4) there is no shudder, so it appears the tranny and transfer case are not the culprits
Checked the slip-spline on the two-piece shaft? I noticed some play in mine. Do your ujoints sit tight in their yokes? I noticed about 1/32" side play which I attemped to cure with liberal amounts of loctite
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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 02:26 PM
  #664  
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From: Isanti, MN
Originally Posted by diesel402004
STILL trying to resolve a rear driveline 1-2 shudder New front of three pc. driveline u-joint (others are only a year old) yesterday didn't help, so the list now includes, new tranny, carrier bearing, correct driveline angle verification, new LSD clutch pak, fresh fluids, etc. It's not excessive, but it was only a yr and half ago that it didn't do it at all, and nothing was broken/changed/modified except adding mileage. If I drop the rear shaft and only accelerate with front shaft (in 4x4) there is no shudder, so it appears the tranny and transfer case are not the culprits
Send the entire rear drive shaft to a drive line shop to be checked, trued and balanced. They'll easily figure out if something is worn out of spec, and be able to replace it economically, then run it at speed and balance it so it runs true.
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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 10:02 PM
  #665  
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From: Montucky
Thanks for the input J-Martin and U2slow. Jacked it up one more time and had friend gas it with e-brake on while I was eyeballing the driveline. The shaft and u-joints looked fine, but the transfer case was moving some at 15MPH where the shudder is most noticeable. Going to try new tranny mounts next. In reading thru some other post here it looks like folks have had issues with increased vibration when using poly bushings, so was going to try and stick to OEM rubber ones. Anyone know of place to get rubber ones still? Looks like the part number is 55-3838 and 55=3837 for top and bottom. Any other things I should now about when getting this done? I will be doing a closer inspection of the engine mounts too in the am.
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 09:37 AM
  #666  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by diesel402004
Thanks for the input J-Martin and U2slow. Jacked it up one more time and had friend gas it with e-brake on while I was eyeballing the driveline. The shaft and u-joints looked fine, but the transfer case was moving some at 15MPH where the shudder is most noticeable. Going to try new tranny mounts next. In reading thru some other post here it looks like folks have had issues with increased vibration when using poly bushings, so was going to try and stick to OEM rubber ones. Anyone know of place to get rubber ones still? Looks like the part number is 55-3838 and 55=3837 for top and bottom. Any other things I should now about when getting this done? I will be doing a closer inspection of the engine mounts too in the am.
I got the rubber ones made by Anchor. Might want to do the motor mounts too. I would.


http://www.summitracing.com/search/y...rder=Ascending
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 11:39 AM
  #667  
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by diesel402004
stick to OEM rubber ones. Anyone know of place to get rubber ones still?
Bought mine at napa, but they're made for napa by anchor.

I epoxy coated the bolts, washers and ferrules. Didn't overtighten the bolts either, as you can overtorque them. FSM has the specs.

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Beware that some of them are "boxed wrong" from Anchor. I purchased them, then had to get different ones again, as they were boxed without the ferrules or washers. You need them to do the job right, and if the box doesn't have them, they're wrong. Both sets were bought @ Napa. One box just was missing parts, and when they reordered them again from the warehouse, they came in correct.

Called Anchor direct, and they were aware of the mixup. Don't reuse the old parts, as you can see why below.....

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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 04:10 PM
  #668  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by NJTman
Bought mine at napa, but they're made for napa by anchor.

I epoxy coated the bolts, washers and ferrules. Didn't overtighten the bolts either, as you can overtorque them. FSM has the specs.



Beware that some of them are "boxed wrong" from Anchor. I purchased them, then had to get different ones again, as they were boxed without the ferrules or washers. You need them to do the job right, and if the box doesn't have them, they're wrong. Both sets were bought @ Napa. One box just was missing parts, and when they reordered them again from the warehouse, they came in correct.

Called Anchor direct, and they were aware of the mixup. Don't reuse the old parts, as you can see why below.....



The problem with the Napa store here is their reboxed parts are twice as much as the ones from somewhere else in the original box. I can get the same parts from summit in Reno(100 miles) the next day way cheaper than from acrossed town(2miles) and I don't have to argue with a pimple faced kid about what he thinks will work.


Ask me about trying to explane why the vin number on my Jeep has nothing to do with the parts on it.
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 09:16 PM
  #669  
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Did a full service on the 93 today: Oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter and grease job. Also changed the fluid in the NV4500. Used the Mopar GL-4 rated full syn. fluid. Overfilled it by about 2/3rds of a quart. I know that's important on the Getrags and was told it's not a bad idea on the NV's as well. Should be good to go for the rest of the winter, don't drive it once they start throwing salt everywhere.
Cliff
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 09:36 PM
  #670  
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Didn't technically do anything to mine today, as I am still 150 miles from it, but I did stumble across a fan shroud for cheap, while fighting off the temptation to purchase the 91, or 92 W250's that were offered to me, when I asked about the W350.
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 07:33 PM
  #671  
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From: Montucky
Thanks mknittle. Napa did have all parts ($20) in rubber and got them installed ok. Did help with 15MPH shudder, but did introduce slightly more vibration. I suspect it will recede after the initial softening of the rubber. It does make the driveline feel more "tight" so I'll take the temporary increase in vibration. Another project done
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 04:01 PM
  #672  
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by diesel402004
Thanks mknittle. Napa did have all parts ($20) in rubber and got them installed ok. Did help with 15MPH shudder, but did introduce slightly more vibration. I suspect it will recede after the initial softening of the rubber. It does make the driveline feel more "tight" so I'll take the temporary increase in vibration. Another project done

Yeah... Thanks Mcknittle... you da man !

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Old Dec 25, 2014 | 12:23 PM
  #673  
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From: Montucky
Originally Posted by NJTman
Yeah... Thanks Mcknittle... you da man !

Hah! Quotes within quotes got me...NJTman you tha man
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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 02:11 PM
  #674  
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From: Granbury,Tx.
Installed new battery as truck has set upstarted since Oct 2010. It only needed a couple short shots of starting fluid after prime pumping before it ran on the old fuel. Had to replace the vacuum booster and it passed inspection today.
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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 03:24 PM
  #675  
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From: Prince George, BC
Originally Posted by cleatusj
Installed new battery as truck has set upstarted since Oct 2010. It only needed a couple short shots of starting fluid after prime pumping before it ran on the old fuel. Had to replace the vacuum booster and it passed inspection today.
Can't ask for better then that!
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