What did you do to your Gen 1 today?
STILL trying to resolve a rear driveline 1-2 shudder
New front of three pc. driveline u-joint (others are only a year old) yesterday didn't help, so the list now includes, new tranny, carrier bearing, correct driveline angle verification, new LSD clutch pak, fresh fluids, etc. It's not excessive, but it was only a yr and half ago that it didn't do it at all, and nothing was broken/changed/modified except adding mileage. If I drop the rear shaft and only accelerate with front shaft (in 4x4) there is no shudder, so it appears the tranny and transfer case are not the culprits
New front of three pc. driveline u-joint (others are only a year old) yesterday didn't help, so the list now includes, new tranny, carrier bearing, correct driveline angle verification, new LSD clutch pak, fresh fluids, etc. It's not excessive, but it was only a yr and half ago that it didn't do it at all, and nothing was broken/changed/modified except adding mileage. If I drop the rear shaft and only accelerate with front shaft (in 4x4) there is no shudder, so it appears the tranny and transfer case are not the culprits
STILL trying to resolve a rear driveline 1-2 shudder
New front of three pc. driveline u-joint (others are only a year old) yesterday didn't help, so the list now includes, new tranny, carrier bearing, correct driveline angle verification, new LSD clutch pak, fresh fluids, etc. It's not excessive, but it was only a yr and half ago that it didn't do it at all, and nothing was broken/changed/modified except adding mileage. If I drop the rear shaft and only accelerate with front shaft (in 4x4) there is no shudder, so it appears the tranny and transfer case are not the culprits
New front of three pc. driveline u-joint (others are only a year old) yesterday didn't help, so the list now includes, new tranny, carrier bearing, correct driveline angle verification, new LSD clutch pak, fresh fluids, etc. It's not excessive, but it was only a yr and half ago that it didn't do it at all, and nothing was broken/changed/modified except adding mileage. If I drop the rear shaft and only accelerate with front shaft (in 4x4) there is no shudder, so it appears the tranny and transfer case are not the culprits
STILL trying to resolve a rear driveline 1-2 shudder
New front of three pc. driveline u-joint (others are only a year old) yesterday didn't help, so the list now includes, new tranny, carrier bearing, correct driveline angle verification, new LSD clutch pak, fresh fluids, etc. It's not excessive, but it was only a yr and half ago that it didn't do it at all, and nothing was broken/changed/modified except adding mileage. If I drop the rear shaft and only accelerate with front shaft (in 4x4) there is no shudder, so it appears the tranny and transfer case are not the culprits
New front of three pc. driveline u-joint (others are only a year old) yesterday didn't help, so the list now includes, new tranny, carrier bearing, correct driveline angle verification, new LSD clutch pak, fresh fluids, etc. It's not excessive, but it was only a yr and half ago that it didn't do it at all, and nothing was broken/changed/modified except adding mileage. If I drop the rear shaft and only accelerate with front shaft (in 4x4) there is no shudder, so it appears the tranny and transfer case are not the culprits
Thanks for the input J-Martin and U2slow. Jacked it up one more time and had friend gas it with e-brake on while I was eyeballing the driveline. The shaft and u-joints looked fine, but the transfer case was moving some at 15MPH where the shudder is most noticeable. Going to try new tranny mounts next. In reading thru some other post here it looks like folks have had issues with increased vibration when using poly bushings, so was going to try and stick to OEM rubber ones. Anyone know of place to get rubber ones still? Looks like the part number is 55-3838 and 55=3837 for top and bottom. Any other things I should now about when getting this done? I will be doing a closer inspection of the engine mounts too in the am.
Thanks for the input J-Martin and U2slow. Jacked it up one more time and had friend gas it with e-brake on while I was eyeballing the driveline. The shaft and u-joints looked fine, but the transfer case was moving some at 15MPH where the shudder is most noticeable. Going to try new tranny mounts next. In reading thru some other post here it looks like folks have had issues with increased vibration when using poly bushings, so was going to try and stick to OEM rubber ones. Anyone know of place to get rubber ones still? Looks like the part number is 55-3838 and 55=3837 for top and bottom. Any other things I should now about when getting this done? I will be doing a closer inspection of the engine mounts too in the am.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/y...rder=Ascending
I epoxy coated the bolts, washers and ferrules. Didn't overtighten the bolts either, as you can overtorque them. FSM has the specs.

Beware that some of them are "boxed wrong" from Anchor. I purchased them, then had to get different ones again, as they were boxed without the ferrules or washers. You need them to do the job right, and if the box doesn't have them, they're wrong. Both sets were bought @ Napa. One box just was missing parts, and when they reordered them again from the warehouse, they came in correct.
Called Anchor direct, and they were aware of the mixup. Don't reuse the old parts, as you can see why below.....

Bought mine at napa, but they're made for napa by anchor.
I epoxy coated the bolts, washers and ferrules. Didn't overtighten the bolts either, as you can overtorque them. FSM has the specs.

Beware that some of them are "boxed wrong" from Anchor. I purchased them, then had to get different ones again, as they were boxed without the ferrules or washers. You need them to do the job right, and if the box doesn't have them, they're wrong. Both sets were bought @ Napa. One box just was missing parts, and when they reordered them again from the warehouse, they came in correct.
Called Anchor direct, and they were aware of the mixup. Don't reuse the old parts, as you can see why below.....


I epoxy coated the bolts, washers and ferrules. Didn't overtighten the bolts either, as you can overtorque them. FSM has the specs.

Beware that some of them are "boxed wrong" from Anchor. I purchased them, then had to get different ones again, as they were boxed without the ferrules or washers. You need them to do the job right, and if the box doesn't have them, they're wrong. Both sets were bought @ Napa. One box just was missing parts, and when they reordered them again from the warehouse, they came in correct.
Called Anchor direct, and they were aware of the mixup. Don't reuse the old parts, as you can see why below.....



Ask me about trying to explane why the vin number on my Jeep has nothing to do with the parts on it.
Did a full service on the 93 today: Oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter and grease job. Also changed the fluid in the NV4500. Used the Mopar GL-4 rated full syn. fluid. Overfilled it by about 2/3rds of a quart. I know that's important on the Getrags and was told it's not a bad idea on the NV's as well. Should be good to go for the rest of the winter, don't drive it once they start throwing salt everywhere.
Cliff
Cliff
Didn't technically do anything to mine today, as I am still 150 miles from it, but I did stumble across a fan shroud for cheap, while fighting off the temptation to purchase the 91, or 92 W250's that were offered to me, when I asked about the W350.
Thanks mknittle. Napa did have all parts ($20) in rubber and got them installed ok. Did help with 15MPH shudder, but did introduce slightly more vibration. I suspect it will recede after the initial softening of the rubber. It does make the driveline feel more "tight" so I'll take the temporary increase in vibration. Another project done
Thanks mknittle. Napa did have all parts ($20) in rubber and got them installed ok. Did help with 15MPH shudder, but did introduce slightly more vibration. I suspect it will recede after the initial softening of the rubber. It does make the driveline feel more "tight" so I'll take the temporary increase in vibration. Another project done

Yeah... Thanks Mcknittle... you da man !
Installed new battery as truck has set upstarted since Oct 2010. It only needed a couple short shots of starting fluid after prime pumping before it ran on the old fuel. Had to replace the vacuum booster and it passed inspection today.






