SeaW250

To rid the wicked pulsating brake problem, today replaced rotors, pads and while there wheel bearings. Bendix rotors and Bendix HD (made in USA) mkd149F Metlok pads. Now brakes like new.

To my surprise the existing rotors were Budd. Not sure Budds were ever in the aftermarket. Paper thin, warped so maybe original (~200K miles). Or cheap skate PO sourced them from a scrap yard. Worth noting the Chinese Bendix rotors are nearly identical to the Budds.

Jim Lane

Looks nice.



What is the tone ring needed for?
Jim

PapeCAT

Jim Hi:

The Tone ring is for the factory ford Tach to work.

Trying to take time to take care of little details like that in conjunction with clean/paint refresh so I'll be happier with it when it is all done. (unlike my last crew swap)

Redtruck-VA

Went to town and gather fuse, lugs and wire to finish the trailer wiring. Question, I just got my egt and boost gauges installed. What should I expect going down the highway at 55mph? I'm seeing about 4 psi and 600 degrees cruising light throttle.

thrashingcows

Sounds about right to me. Anything under 5lbs boost and you should be getting decent fuel mileage. Is your EGT probe pre or post turbo....I can't recall?

Redtruck-VA

It's pre-turbo. 727 gets 22 mpg. Hope to put a 518 in next year.

thrashingcows

Well i redid the rear brake hubs a few weeks ago, new bearings and seals, but yesterday on my first day off in about a week I noticed that there was gear oil on the ground by the passenger side rear tire....Doooh!

So today I tore into it to see how bad it was....





All that oil everywhere...that can't be good.

thrashingcows

Turns out I nicked the inner seal on the threads when installing it. Gouged the seal and popped the spring loose as well.



And with all that oil everywhere the rear shoes were toast!



So off to the parts store for some new Wagner riveted 12x3 shoes, and SKF inner seals....Did not want to use the raybestos bonded units.

thrashingcows

Lots of cleaning to get that gear oil off everything. But finally got everything clean up and start re-assembly. This time I used some black electrical tape over the threads to smooth things out just in case I get weak and wobbly trying to lift that drum and hub into place.



So it turned into an expensive day. Amazing what a small nick in a seal can end up costing you....a big chunk of change, and half a day.

thrashingcows

The drivers side was nice and clean and dry. So I know it was the nick in the seal and at the same time it popped out the spring. I had the right seals I'm sure of that.

But that is still good info to know.

NJTman

Turns out that in the catalog that the 415009 and the 417158 are very similar, as they both fit the hub. The 415009 has a smaller diameter center hole and it actually fits the front hubs on the D60 axle. Somehow when I bought the truck, the 415009 was in there, and I replaced it with the same number. It failed a few weeks later. Replaced it again, and it failed again.


it wasn't until I actually looked up the seals in a national catalog, bought both seals, and test fitted them on a dry spindle right out of the box, before installing in the hub. They both fit, but the 415009 was just too snug.

Glad you got it all worked out..

Just think.... Your backing plate will never rust out now....

dodgenstein

Iff you could find the tin shields that go over the hub/seal area, they do an excellent job of ducting the gear lube to the gap between the drum and hub. I have replaced bad seals and had nary a drop on the shoes or backing plate.

thrashingcows

The drums still had them when I redid the diff the first time. I could not get them off the old hub and drum without destroying them.

thrashingcows

Absolutely a gorgeous day here today. Clear and sunny and probably a good 15* to 20*C in the sun (65*to 70*F). Wife and daughters went out shopping, so I decided to give Ol' Patches a good cleaning inside and out.

mknittle

Lookin good Brian