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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
Finally got to take the truck for a ride after putting on the new shocks. Rides nice wandering has mellowed out quite a bit. Guess after 26 years the others really were worn out.
Ordered a Headlight relay kit from LMC over the weekend. That will go on once I get it. Hoping the results are as great as everyone says they are.
Let us know how it works! That would be a lot easier than building a harness. I just wonder if the wires are big enough to carry enough power to be as effective as Jim Lanes relay system.
Let us know how it works! That would be a lot easier than building a harness. I just wonder if the wires are big enough to carry enough power to be as effective as Jim Lanes relay system.
Will try and get some good before and after light output pictures to post.
Let us know how it works! That would be a lot easier than building a harness. I just wonder if the wires are big enough to carry enough power to be as effective as Jim Lanes relay system.
I ordered a kit off Amazon a while back to go along with my Hella lights upgrade. I also installed 100 watt bulbs. I believe the advantage is more to spare the existing switches in the truck. I wired the supply for the lights through a 30 amp circuit breaker. The wires are 14 gauge which should handle 15 amps each light. The Hella lights focus much better and have a sharp cutoff when on DIm setting with a little flare up to the right to see road signs better while not blinding oncoming drivers. On high beams they light up the entire road for at least 1/4 mile. Must be seen to believe!
I ordered an off shore headlight relay kit and the wire "looked" like 14ga, but you actually open them up and look at the amount of actual wire inside and they were lucky to be a 16-18ga...there was more wire casing then wire.
I went to check the sensor in the bottom of the fuel filter. I laid down a pan to catch the fuel but before I unscrewed it I decided to unhook the plug and try turning on the ignition. The WIF light still comes on. I tried starting the engine and it stays on.
Is there another sensor someplace else? Is the sensor working without being connected to the light? AFAIK it's just 2 wires sticking up into the fuel in the bottom of the filter.
Edwin
The PCM looks for a capacitance change across the points. You might try cleaning all the connectors with carb cleaner and dry them thoroughly before plugging them back in.
I finally thought about it enough and I was feeling sort of OK and it wasn't to hot out so I decided to finish the wiring on the driver side fender where all those cursed fusible links are. The job I did before was only half done and had the headlights and the electric A/C fans wired on the wrong side of the ammeter. I bought a big terminal block from Amazon and I tied the duckfoot to it along with the ammeter lead and the shunt to it. I also moved the headlight and A/C fans to it also so the ammeter will show the drain. Even so the ammeter never goes more than 1 tick either charge or discharge.
I had considered replacing the fusible links with fuses but from what I read they use fusible links for a reason. I'm guessing that reason is that they will take a lot of overload before they heat up enough to burn out. In electronics we call this a slow-blow fuse. A normal fuse would be blowing more often and might lead someone to replace it with a higher amperage fuse and endanger the truck wiring. They were in good shape so I left them in place.
Could you not uses thermal relay for the fusible links? Should provide the same type of protection would it not, and most of them rest once cooled down.
Could you not uses thermal relay for the fusible links? Should provide the same type of protection would it not, and most of them rest once cooled down.
I'll have to look into that. Hopefully I can find a ganged unit or some small enough to fit in the area without looking like a mess. It looks like a mess now but it was worse looking before. I hate wire splices in the middle of a wire bundle that has to be split open until you find the splice then discover it wasn't the problem after all.
Today I spent some time troubleshooting my master cylinder leak, looks like the gasket has some permenant impresions. Then I started tuning my pump. Been on my todo list forever. So far I have Fuel in 1/4, smoke out 1, and starwheel 1/2. Turning in the fuel screw really helped with my truck idling very low in gear ( would drop almost 300 rpm with my idle at 800) before and I have cleared up the smoke quite a bit. I still need to keep making adjustments.I am taking my time since this is my first time and I feel like I am just guessing lol. Thinking about turning the fuel in another 1/4 turn to see the change. My overall goal is little to no smoke and hopefully get my idle (especially when in gear) right.
I'll have to look into that. Hopefully I can find a ganged unit or some small enough to fit in the area without looking like a mess. It looks like a mess now but it was worse looking before. I hate wire splices in the middle of a wire bundle that has to be split open until you find the splice then discover it wasn't the problem after all.
I am using Maxi fuses they are menns to be a slow blow fuse. I remember reading a while back that they were specifically designed to replace FLs.
I am using Stinger SPD5623 to hold my fuses.
i can honestly say I am glad I made the change. When my FSS failed it kept shorting and popping the fuse. If it were a link I would have been stranded.
