Sadly that is sooo true.

 

Swapped out the rad for a new aluminium KKS and swapped the steering box for a new redhead unit

 

Well haven't done anything TO the old goat for a while, but today I did go pick up some new toys WITH it.

 

Am I seeing (or not seeing) things ?

No mounting plate on that gear ?

 

It looks like it is mounted 2wd style with cross over steering.
Good eyes T-man.

 

Yep doing it 2wd style with crossover steering

 

It's moving under it's own power again! It feels good to get behind the wheel and row some gears again! It runs so smooth too. Under conservative acceleration, I was seeing 10psi while only in 3rd gear. I can't recall if it was the same before the rebuild and with the stock cam but I know the cams tend to lower overall boost pressures. I guess they can also play a role in spool up.

I did forget to post an update from a couple of weeks ago. With every other precaution I took, it hadn't crossed my mind to pin the Fluidampr. Cheap insurance. Man, was it easy to drill! I also fastened it with new ARP bolts.







Fast forward to yesterday. I set the valve lash for the final time, bled the high pressure lines, cranked without fuel to verify good oil pressure, then let it fire and proceeded to follow Hamilton's break-in procedure; holding 1200-1500rpm for 5 minutes. Once that was done, I made all the charge air and inlet air filter connections, mounted the grill, headlights and parking lamps.



It was finally time to get it out of the backyard and pounding the pavement again. After a short drive around the block and bringing it up to temp, it was time to bathe it and get rid of the 8 months of layered on dirt.









Love hearing that turbine whine again!

http://vid20.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9hrmvh9q.mp4

 

Ahhhh...

I bet it handles much better than stock...

 

Removed the instrument cluster again to put the LED lights in it and double check the speedometer went back together correcly as it hasn't worked after changing the gears.

Read a little write up about which pins to connect power to to check if the light are in correct polarity on the bench but I just plugged the circuit board back into the wiring harness and pulled the headlight switch. The harness provides power and ground so is easy peasy.

I left the top right light facotry incandescent for this pic but changed it afterwards.





Probably have to drive with my sun glasses on at night now but all well.

 

Yes drives like a dream now

 

You might have to put a incandescent or two back in so you can use the dimmer function

 

Ripped off the vacuum booster and master cylinder to do a hydroboost swap. While it was out of the way I installed THD HVLP lift pump and fuel pin. I had the Denny T and didn't like how smoky it was at low boost.

Now to research what I need for pressure lines

 

They do dim a little but shut off before I'd say they are actualy dim.

If they are too bright I'll try putting the bulb caps back in and see how that is.

It's still not dark on the west coast

 

Went out after dark to see.

They are magnitudes brighter than stock but not blindly bright.
Certainly not as bright as the picture makes them look.

I think I'll try the bulb caps to see what that does, maybe add a little blue color back.

Not driving the truck this week so got time to tear it all apart again.

 

If you absolutly need them to dim, you can disconnect the wire from the rheostat and use a small PWM dimmer instead.

Jim