mknittle

It has been years since I have had aluminum wheels an dont know the torque value.
these have 60* tapered lug nuts.

u2slow

Does wheel material matter? I torque based on the stud size. Then re-torque after a bit of driving.

oliver foster

I agree you just need to check the aluminum rims more often as they seem to loosen up a little more.
I installed my aluminum rims on Poncho a few weeks ago to 100 FT # [I didn't check the spec. it just sounded about right to me] and have checked them and re torqued them several times already. I have the 1/2 inch wheel studs on it.
I had my daughter check the torque spec on them for us last Sunday. It took me as long to show her how to do it as it would have it would have to just do it myself, but I thought its was a good thing to understand and know how to do.

ofelas

100 ft-lbs for ally and 120 ft-lbs for steel.

Cross torqued by mechanical wrench.

mknittle

Thanks guys

NJTman

Wheel Torque Chart - Discount Tire Direct

I torque my dodge's rims to 90 ft lbs, and they've never ever come loose. I believe the guys are right regarding the size of the stud and how much clamping force can be applied without over stretching or snapping the bolts.

My yota is 76 ft lbs with alum rims. I always retorque them, but they're never loosened up. Costco requires ALL tire installs to be returned and retorqued after 50 miles or so. I never go back because I retorque them at home..

My fuso is also on the "retorque after 50 miles" routine, as it's actually stated in the service manual. Those are torqued to 390 ft lbs at their max, but I run them under that.

u2slow

I use 95# on 1/2" studs. 120# on 9/16". Regardless of steel/alum. Torque wrench resides in the passenger footwell as a reminder until retorque is done. No issues.

MrFusion

I had an alloy rim that was secured with shoulder bolts loosen up on me and create a lot of problems on a '77 F150 with 35's. After that I learned to frequently torque aluminum or alloy rims. I generally don't trust them and prefer to run steel.

NJTman

Friends wife took her 2 year old Mitsubishi Eclipse to a tire dealer to have new skins put on.... somewhere back in early 1990's. She pulls out of the dealership, gets on a highway, and 3 of the 4 tires and rims fall off. They forgot to tighten the lug nuts.....

Insurance purchased a new car, or it was traded in something to the effect due to all the undercarriage & suspension damage. I just remember her being freaked out....

Jim Lane

Nobody ever seems to know the torque specs for my 1991 D-350 with stock steel rims.

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/f...wheels-248980/

TSB 22-02-92

Even though the TSB specifically states 300-350 ft/lbs they only torque them to 140 ft/lbs.
I think because they do not have anything big enough.

I have changed a lot of Budd wheels on Transit coaches by hand using a lug wrench, axle stand and an 8' cheater bar and some I have needed another 200# helper on the bar.

Using my K-D lug wrench I have to put my 150# pounds on the end of the 3' bar to get 350 pounds of torque.

edwinsmith

I put mine on with my impact wrench. I did the pattern as shown. I do have a 3' bar and wrench but if I were to put them on at 350 lbft nobody would be able to get them loose with the impact wrenches most shops have. I had to soak them with WD-40 before I could get them off with my impact wrench and they'd only been on for 6 months since I bought tires.

I had to redo them to get them centered to get the bouncing out. I'll have them off again soon to re-pack my wheel bearings and install dust covers which the PO didn't seem to think were necessary. I'll see if any have loosened up but 350 lbft seems really high. I used the same impact on my rear dual's also.

Edwin

BTW, I searched around for a bar for my lug wrench and the only one I found wouldn't fit and had to be ordered. I went down to my local industrial Metal Supply and bought 3' of 3/4" cold rolled round bar stock. It cost about $8. which was about 1/3 the cost of the shorter bar I would have had to order. A little friction tape on one end and viola! I looked and couldn't find a cross-bar wrench in 1-1/8" they all stop at 1-1/16" for some reason.